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Old 05-11-2019, 10:56 AM
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Default Motor mounts

It seems like I'm replacing motor mounts every year. Has anyone found a good one for use on the 69 Firebird? I drive it hard, but it should still last longer than these do.

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Last edited by azbirds; 05-11-2019 at 10:57 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:55 AM
Beige1968GTO Beige1968GTO is offline
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Default NAPA motor mounts

I installed NAPA motor mounts on my GTO, haven’t had problems but I don’t drive it much or hard. What brand are you using?

Ron

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Old 05-11-2019, 01:28 PM
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You may want to look for some pics of the modifications that can be done to a new mount to help prevent breakage. I think there's a good photo in Jim Hand's book showing his method.

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Old 05-11-2019, 03:05 PM
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Put a solid on the drivers side , stock in the passenger side .

I did this after destroying both side of auto parts store ones and then broke the drivers side
Mity mount .

Left the passenger mity mount on and put the solid on the drivers side three years ago and no more issues. Do a search here their’s a few topics in it

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Old 05-11-2019, 03:40 PM
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I believe it has AutoZone mounts last install. My TA is a stick and I know when it fails because the Z bar falls off the stud on the block.�� I will see what NAPA has first and mighty mount 2nd. It's fun driving home with no pedal! Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll have to look at Jim Hands book, it's around here somewhere.

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When people tell me they HAD to sell their car when they started a family, I show them the three car seats in the back of my 69Trans-Am..............and we didn't even use car seats back then!!
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:40 PM
AIR RAM AIR RAM is offline
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I had the same issue with my 69 Firebird conv 350ci. I was replacing the drivers side mount 2-3 times a year. I believe it was only making approximately 450RWHP based on its 115mph trap (Low 12s, traction limited)

My fix seemed to work well and I have not had to replace a mount in over 10 years.

I was close to buying solid mounts however I had an idea that I wanted to try before doing so. What I did was I mounted a turn buckle at the back of the engine on the drivers side upper transmission bolt and down to the frame. I lightly preload it by hand and safety wire it to keep it from loosening up. And when I say preload, I really mean just finger tight... I left a very small amount of slack to allow slight movement. On track days I would snug it down by hand removing any and all slack.

This was a real cheap mod and did everything I needed it to do. It limited twisting under load yet allowed me to run the rubber mounts instead of solid mounts.

You just have to remember to remove it when pulling the engine... LOL

SPEED SAFE, NICK

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Last edited by AIR RAM; 05-11-2019 at 04:51 PM.
  #7  
Old 05-11-2019, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIR RAM View Post
I had the same issue with my 69 Firebird conv 350ci. I was replacing the drivers side mount 2-3 times a year. I believe it was only making approximately 450RWHP based on its 115mph trap (Low 12s, traction limited)

My fix seemed to work well and I have not had to replace a mount in over 10 years.

I was close to buying solid mounts however I had an idea that I wanted to try before doing so. What I did was I mounted a turn buckle at the back of the engine on the drivers side upper transmission bolt and down to the frame. I lightly preload it by hand and safety wire it to keep it from loosening up. And when I say preload, I really mean just finger tight... I left a very small amount of slack to allow slight movement. On track days I would snug it down by hand removing any and all slack.

This was a real cheap mod and did everything I needed it to do. It limited twisting under load yet allowed me to run the rubber mounts instead of solid mounts.

You just have to remember to remove it when pulling the engine... LOL

SPEED SAFE, NICK
350 ci, low 12's? I want to know more on that build! I am one of a few 350p weirdos around here.

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Old 05-11-2019, 06:09 PM
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I have 4 years on my mounts no issues..I don't drive mine too hard

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  #9  
Old 05-11-2019, 06:23 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Any rubber mounts available today are bottom-feeder Chinese or India-sourced crap.

MityMounts are those same bottom-feeder parts, with a few machine screws crammed into position, and the decimal point on the price moved one place over.

As said, about the best you can do is to install a torque-motion limiting device. GM used cables-and-brackets, some guys use rod-ends and turnbuckles. There's as many ways to do it as there are guys creating them.

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Old 05-11-2019, 10:00 PM
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I've thought about a limiting device but it has to be hidden very well. I like the idea of it in the back but I will have to see how it would work with my Z bar and linkage. The NAPA mounts I just picked up don't look bad, but a $7 you have wonder how long they will last. I shock people with this car because you don't see 69 TransAm's running hard in autocrosses, so going easy on it is not an option.

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When people tell me they HAD to sell their car when they started a family, I show them the three car seats in the back of my 69Trans-Am..............and we didn't even use car seats back then!!
  #11  
Old 05-12-2019, 12:45 AM
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Just put solid mounts on it you'll never know the diff.
And know more broking mounts. I run them on all my cars
And no problems at all.

GT.

  #12  
Old 05-12-2019, 01:38 AM
wbnapier wbnapier is offline
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I have Butler poly mounts, and no issues.

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  #13  
Old 05-12-2019, 10:42 AM
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I got the basic rubber mounts from Napa 9 years ago. Took 9 years before the settled to where the oil pan is sitting on the subframe no breakage or cracks in that timeframe.

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Old 05-12-2019, 10:50 AM
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Had the same problem breaking motor mounts on my 400 & just put on a set of Butler's solid mounts. Wish I did this year's ago

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  #15  
Old 05-12-2019, 04:42 PM
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I ran with a stick shift turbo car making 700+ poly mounts and ran a chain from the back of the drivers head to my frame. could not see it it worked great. Go with a solid mount or a mid plate which I have now.

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Old 05-12-2019, 04:53 PM
Singleton Singleton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueghoast View Post
Just put solid mounts on it you'll never know the diff.
And know more broking mounts. I run them on all my cars
Same here.

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  #17  
Old 05-12-2019, 06:40 PM
Marv Marv is offline
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There are aftermarket options - I've used Tuff Mounts in a few other projects and they have an EXCELLENT name down under for surviving in +1500hp cars.

http://musclegarage.com.au/index.php...ory&path=80_89

  #18  
Old 05-12-2019, 08:30 PM
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I have used a chain for years with stock Pontiac Mounts and never had an issue.
Manual Trans vehicle and I beat the crap out of the engine/trans/rear axles shifting.
I have a good rear axle now (Ford 9"), The three of the 8.2 stock rears and one 12 bolt
did not survive. You want the chain or strap to have about a slight clearance to reduce vibration and let the mounts do their job.

Lots of posts on this issue.

Tom V.

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Old 05-12-2019, 08:44 PM
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Has anyone fab'd a mount like the A-bodies with a bolt rather than the method the first gen F bodies and X bodies use?

  #20  
Old 05-12-2019, 08:54 PM
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Does anyone have a pic of a chain setup that will mountvto the back of the head and not interfere with the z bar? I want to keep it simple

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