[jts ocd-stang]

Here is a Economical Way to Swap out Power Brakes to Manual for Drag Racing Applications with out spending a lot Money..FYI

I did a lot of research and found out a few things that has got me very close to getting everything needed to do this conversion.I was able to get the firewall plate from MasterPower,LLC.I saw others that were like it for $120 bucks,fancy ones for people with tons of money to waste,go to this website: www.mpbrakes.com/ here is there phone #1888.351.8785,there website is almost useless as its so hard to find things on it.You will need to order Part#AD2732K this is the booster adapter plate with hardware,it is only $21.95,big difference from the $120 from Willwood.You will need a new push rod as the stock power brake one is to short to work,I ordered a longer push rod,9"to make sure it would be long enough.Part#PRBL9 for $12.95,and you will need a push rod eyelet that screws onto the push rod that is cut down for BM1302(that is the stock 3/8" diameter stud) on the end so it will fit on the factory stud that is on your brake pedal.Part#PR101 for $4.95.I then went to Advantage Auto Parts and had them look up a master cylinder for a 82' S10 that they said did not exist?Well after about 1 hour of searching by a incompetent sales person,low and behold "wow your right sir" and purchased it part#10-1905 for $34.99.One thing I didn't like about the master cylinder is that the dimpled place where the push rod from the brake pedal pushes on it is not very deep at all,just enough to mate it to the rod,so as you will see in this link you have to make a "holder" for the push rod as for it not to fall down out of its center position.I will be doing the whole system on mine in a few weeks and I'm sure it will all work out with a little adjustments here and there.Yes the s10 wheel cylinders will make a big difference in the amount of pressure compared to stock ones.I have a narrowed 12 bolt and front disc brakes so I wasn't able to utilize those but I have read they are a super upgrade.All in all I have about $90 BUCKS in the complete conversion,hell that's $30 cheaper than TRZ MOTORSPORTS wanted just for the adapter plate and I got it all NEW! Hope this all helps you and others out there and saves others money as it did me.Just leaves more money to spend where it should be. Have a great weekend.
Jason
here is the link to others who have done it this way.Hope this helps others out.
http://www.maliburacing.com/manual_brake_conversion.htm Shocked

[DiamondJim]

I have a Wildwood that someone modded(mounting holes opened up) for GM that I will be using. Watch the shallow hole MC, I found that one for a 70 Chevelle has a deep hole, that is what I am running on my 66 GTO. I will need that longer rod on my 78 Grand Am, thanks for the info! -Jim

[ONEFASTLEMANS]

did you get it done yet?im waiting to see how you make out before i order whatever kit im going to get

[jts ocd-stang]

Well after a long delay due to "LIFE" I am back at the brake conversion for my 85' Grand Prix,I got all the factory pedals and master cylinder out today,here are some tips..the four bolts that hold the Brake Booster in are 15mm,and the way I got them out was using a butterfly air ratchet with a foot long extension and a 3/8" swivel on the end,this was a pretty easy on mine as: (my front seats are out so I have tons of room to move around I would suggest this to allow you plenty of work area,and while I had the seats out I sand blasted a set of manual seat tracks and painted them flat black,and greased them back up with some white lithium spray and they move like butter,and,looks great.) After the four main nuts are out there is one more bolt that holds the assembly in,right in the top front of metal housing/assembly,you will have to lay on you back and look straight up with a mag light,it is a 13mm,I zipped it out and gently negotiated the assembly out as not to pull loose any of the factory wiring,this took a bit of patience but it finally came out.I have all the pieces on my work bench now and I was sizing up the bolts for mounting the pedal assemble back to the car,I am using four grade 8 ,3/8"x 1 1/2" bolts,3/8" flat washers and 3/8" lock washers,3/8" nuts,(see pictures)all grade 8 stuff,I will be using a flat washer and lock washers on both sides of the bolt and nut for safety and piece of mind.The factory nuts will fit the grade 8 bolts,they have the nylon locking nut so you could save some money here,I am now going to start to modify the pedal assembly to receive the new master cylinder,I will keep you all posted on this project.Have a great week.jts

Originally Posted by ONEFASTLEMANS

did you get it done yet?im waiting to see how you make out before i order whatever kit im going to get

[Keith Seymore]

Maybe I missed it, but can you tell me what application your new master cylinder was originally for (ie, GM S pickup, C/K truck or Astro van, for example)? If there is a label on it (like "SR") that would be great.

Thanks,

K

[jts ocd-stang]

K,
No you didn't miss it,it is for a 82' S-10 with manual brakes,the part# is (10-1905) RRE6 is stamped on the front.They(Advanced Auto or Autozone) will tell you that they never made them,they did I had one,well after making the guy cross-reference master cylinders for 20 minutes he found it.I did get the fabricating done on the pedal assembly this morning and it is working perfect so far,there were a couple of hills to climb,but that was to be expected,I will post the whole process later on today.Hope this helps ya out.
jts

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Maybe I missed it, but can you tell me what application your new master cylinder was originally for (ie, GM S pickup, C/K truck or Astro van, for example)? If there is a label on it (like "SR") that would be great.

Thanks,

K

[Keith Seymore]

Perfect! Thank you.

I used to be a brake development engineer for General Motors. I decided I was going to put a plastic reservoir/aluminum master cylinder on my Chevelle, so I got out all my charts and drawings.

You would be surprised how many ways there are for a master cylinder to not fit!



(Ports on the inboard side/ports on the outboard side; ISO flares vs English flares; Piston bore, Quick take up vs non quick take up; front brakes supplied by the front vs front brakes supplied at the rear; reservoir size, etc. Geez).

Ended up putting another cast iron unit back on.

Thanks again -

K