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Basic (I hope)Tiling question
I haven’t put tile up in 25 years, and that was around a bathtub. I plan on putting a tile backsplash up over my kitchen counter. Question is what are the options with outlets and switches. If I leave them as is I would have them recessed in the tile which I don’t think I’d like the look of. If I brought the tile in closer to the outlets I could mount the swithplates on top of the tile, but the switches/ outlets would be sunk into the cover.
How would I get the actual switches/ outlets out of the box farther to do this? Move the whole box out further? Seems like that would be a PIA. I think this would look cleaner in the end, if I can do it. Thanks!
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#2
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I’ve always tiled up to outer 4 edges of the boxes then cut semicircles above and below to leave access to the screw threads of the box already installed in the wall (these thread obviously are use to mount the outlet/switch). The top and bottom “ears” of the outlets/switches now will sit on the face of the tile. You need to clearance a small recess behind where the cover plate screws go through these ears as the ears are flush with the tile. As you reinstall the outlet/switch into the box you’ll need longer screws to compensate for the thickness of the tile and thinset/mastic.
Clear as mud? I can take some pics if you need them.
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl Last edited by nytrainer; 01-01-2020 at 02:30 PM. |
#3
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Fitting tile to edge of boxes is best so the receptacle ears sit on the the tile. To give extra support, you can find at your home depot shims to go between the receptacle and the box. They come in a strip and you can break off how many you need in one piece so they stay together and not fall off the screw while you are tightening it down. They also have box extenders in 1/4 inch increments.
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#4
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#5
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I would pull the box out so it is flush with the finished edge of the new tile. It will make it simple to mount the switches or outlets and the plates will sit noce and tight. Definitly will be more work. That being said. It is the right way to do it and will make for a much better finished product.
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68 Firebird 400, #16, xe274, street dominator, 850 DP, hooker headers, t400, 3500 stall, 3.73, 295/65 bfg drag radicals... best 13.27 @ 102.8, 1.90 60ft |
#6
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Tile up to your boxes and then put box extenders in place.. Very simple inexpensive solution that works very well and good to most building codes. Any home building supply store should have them..
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#7
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Sure, if your wall studs are exposed I suppose you might be able to unmount existing boxes and space them forward the 1/4” or so if you’re looking to do extra work but if your wall already has Sheetrock, Durock, etc there is no reason to move the boxes. You’d be making a ton of unnecessary work that can easily be best solved by using box extenders and its the accepted practice in the trades and correct way to get a perfect finished look. Most codes state that front edge of box be flush with wall surface and that includes using the extenders. Hope that helps. Attached is YouTube link showing box extender use. https://youtu.be/l0GRyDJ9ufE
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
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Thanks guys.
Yeah that all makes sense. I was just hoping I didn’t have to move the boxes as I have good drywall in place. I didn’t even know about the box extenders. Good to know!
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
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