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Performance Parts For Sale/Wanted Just Performance, non-stock, trailers, tools and related accessories here. |
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#41
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Do they just push in by hand? No leakage or "blowouts"?
I'm interested. |
#42
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Quote:
Yes #6 hose is big enough then up to a #10 to the heater. Check the photo in my post #24 this is the connection between the heads and heater on my 79 TA. Nevadagoat, they are slightly over size and will tap in with a mallet.
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Its ok to giggle and snicker, Dont laugh and point |
#43
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you have a set and how much to ship to 29483?
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you call yourself HARDCORE but are you truely hardcore |
#44
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Working on a set as we speak, should be ready Tuesday of next week, Rich
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#45
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I've even reused them once. I pulled them out of the last engine (rather roughly, if I must comment) And stuffed them into a different set of heads (with some light RTV) and they still don't leak 67cruiser makes them well I'd take another set if you get setup with paypal, cruiser
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Clay Marsh 1967 GTO convertible Twin Turbo 5spd project http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...d.php?t=618281 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJ9KworCMRE |
#46
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Cruiser. I need a set! PM sent
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1966 Black GTO 463, 4x heads, 278/282@.050 Bullet roller, Pro Systems Dominator, Victor, 4750 Hughes 9", T400, 4:11 12 bolt 11.595@115.44 7800ft DA Super Pro, Pro, King Street |
#47
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No Crossover connection?
[QUOTE=Ollie;4002586]Pontiac_Banshee
Yes #6 hose is big enough then up to a #10 to the heater. Check the photo in my post #24 this is the connection between the heads and heater on my 79 TA. So yours looks like it does not connect at all with the front crossover????? |
#48
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aronhk_md asked a very good question and I find myself asking the same thing. How does the coolant flow?
The scenario I have heard for these coolant plugs is there are three connections. Crossover / right rear head / left rear head. Is/would the scenario be different if you were running the heater core on a stock setup? In a stock setup the water (flow) is being pumped out of the head to the heater core and then goes back into the engine through the timing cover and to the top radiator hose. So if that is correct the heater core is acting like a small radiator but only for one side of the heads. That would make sense to plumb the back of the other head to and through the heater core. My question is why go to the front crossover when keeping the heater core? It seems to be that the water is flowing out of the back of the heads. It also looks like water is flowing out of the front of the heads evenly into the timing cover and into the top radiator hose. Wouldn’t that mean there would be little or no flow from a hose on the crossover to the back of the heads? It seems the least resistant flow would be to go through the top water neck and nothing would flow to the back of the engine? Any GEEKS out there help???? |
#49
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WOW - Did this thread fall off the face of the earth?????
Did anyone have an idea if you really need to go from the front crossover to the back of the heads???? I fugure it can be done but it wont be cheap and if it offers no real advantage I will just go side to side. Bought some brass parts to do a little fit investigation to see what configuration I can come up with. Too expensice to buy the AN stuff just to test. The drivers side is way to close to run any kind of T fitting at the head. The other side is tight but it can be done. Configuration 1 - Rear to Rear Drivers side gets an -8AN 1/2" NPT 90 degree fitting. Passenger side gets the T fitting and a -8AN 1/2" NPT straight fitting which will tie both heads together. The top of the T will get a 1/2" NPT 5/8" hose fitting to go to the heater core. Configuration 2 - Front to rear to rear Drivers side still gets -8AN 1/2" NPT 90 degree fitting at head. It will point to front of engine and connect with hose fittings to an -8AN T Fitting. The front crossover will get a -8AN 1/2" NPT 90 degree fitting and will connect to the -8AN T fitting with a coupler. The third side of the T will go around to the passenger side of the engine to the rear drives side T and connect to a -8AN 1/2" NPT straigh fitting. The 5/8 hose fitting is the same on both configurations. I sent along some pictures and hopefully someone can answer the age old question. HOW DOES THE WATER FLOW! This area is very tight as you can see. |
#50
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You still have them Cruiser?
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Kenny Cincinnati, Oh 1971 Ventura II 400 .060 Eagle Rods |
#51
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Front and Rear BOTH
Ok I never got an answer about the way a Pontiac flows but decided to get the best of both worlds and look at plumbing both to front and across and still keep the heater core in the mix. I got a great deal on some 3/8" Anodized Tee's (may be selling a set on here later) and since the hose is only 1/2" anyways so I am using AN-8 3/8" fittings.
Since I have to use two windows to get the picture in the drivers side (my setup) uses the following. CAUTION: MAKE SURE YOU MOCK THINGS UP WITH BRASS FITTINGS FROM LOCAL STORE (SO YOU CAN RETURN THEM IF NOT NEEDED) AS THE CLEARANCE ON THE DISTRIBUTOR IS VERY TIGHT. AS YOU CAN SEE I HAVE A SMALLER DIAMETER UNITLITE AND I THINK AN HEI OR OTHER FATTER DISTRIBUTOR WOULD BE VERY TIGHT TO PLUMB. FRONT 3/8 to 1/2 brass reducer 8AN - 3/8 90 degree fitting 8AN - 3/8 straight hose end REAR 3/8 to 1/2 brass reducer 3/8 1" brass pipe 3/8 Anodized Tee 8AN - 3/8 45 degree fitting 8AN - 3/8 straight fitting 8AN - 3/8 45 degree hose end 8AN - 3/8 straight hose end PASSENGER SIDE NEXT |
#52
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Passenger Side
I am from WI and as I said it mandatory to keep the heater core setup. That will be the only part of the scenerio that will use standard hose clamps to secure. Based on the fact that there is going to be a 3/8 Tee used in this it will require a 1/2 to 5/8 brass hose adapter to plumb. Get that along with the other brass you need (unless you can afford 100% anodized) at most hardware or home outlet stores.
REAR 3/8 to 1/2 brass reducer 3/8 1" brass pipe 3/8 Anodized Tee 8AN - 3/8 45 degree fitting 8AN - 3/8 45 degree hose end 8AN - 3/8 90 degree fitting 8AN - 3/8 hose end to 1/2 barb then 1/2 to 5/8 brass hose adapter CAUTION: AGAIN CLEARANCE CAN BE AN ISSUE SO MOCKING IT UP WOULD BE HIGHLY ADVISED. |
#53
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Completed
Well with 8AN fittings I was able to get the system plumbed as suggested and all I have to do is use a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter on the heater hose end with a couple of the fake hidden hose clamp fittings to tie it all in once the motor is dropped in.
Here is the final product and hope that helps those that were like me and really wasn’t sure which way to go. I don’t think AN10 would have worked as it is very tight quarters. The water flow idea is great and the fittings were awesome, tying it together was interesting and if you go with AN fittings it can get a bit expensive. My bird is worth every sent I throw at her though! |
#54
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[QUOTE=pontiac_banshee;4005888]
Quote:
No, it does not go to the front cross over, it connects to the the heater.
__________________
Its ok to giggle and snicker, Dont laugh and point |
#55
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2 sets left!! I use a block of wood and a rubber Mallet to put mine in!! U sed a dab of orange water pump sealant around o.d. before they went in. On third yr. never a issue!!
Thanks everyone for using them, Once again 2 sets left, grab em now for 20.00$ a set cause once there gone, time is getting harder and harder to get em made!! |
#56
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I'll Take both sets. How do you want payment. do you use Pay Pal?
Postage to 98012. Sent you a PM too.
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Its ok to giggle and snicker, Dont laugh and point Last edited by Ollie; 04-20-2011 at 09:12 AM. |
#57
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All i can say to all the Pontiac guys and girls if any who supported me on these fittings a Many Many Thanks!! See you at a local cruise or drag strip soon!!
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#58
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wow I missed this , If you make any more PM me I will take a set
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Bring back my 67 GTO: Shes ALIVE as of 2-19-13 previously owned 78 Firebird 67 Nova 64 Nova |
#59
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plugs
i have a set i never used if anyones interested
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#60
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Anymore of these 67cruiser....Do you have Paypal....shoot me a pm....Chris
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1973 Firebird Navajo Orange w/shaker,1973 400/461,1972 Intake SD CNC'd,1977 Q-Jet 800 CFM w/ Cliffs Kit,Tanks Inc PA4 255 Walbro intank pump ,-8an feed/return,RobbMc Regulator,RobbMc 40 micron filter,253 CFM 6x-8's w/H.S 1:5 Roller Rockers,SD Stump Puller H/R Cam 230/236 @.050 112 lobe separation 565/.570 lift,Crower Solid Rollers,28150 Hedman Headers,3" exhaust,full tailpipes,350 Turbo,9.5" 3200 Converter,3:42 gear,8.5 posi,C/E slide-alinks,Koni adj frt shocks,Best 12.18@110.55 Lookin for 11's |
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