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#21
06-21-2014, 06:57 AM
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My question is in regard to these cuts which land on both sides of the door/fender gaps. Should these cuts be 90 degrees, or do they have a bevel to them? Hopefully someone has an original paint car with original molding and they can get a picture of the area in question. Thanks. |
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#22
06-21-2014, 10:10 AM
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Why not just leave the aluminum moldings? That was an upgrade in the day. My 78 had the plastic/rubber ones I got door dings right through them. I realize at this this stage of the game for you that's not going to be a problem.
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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#23
06-21-2014, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
__________________
___________________________________________ the more im around people, the more i like my dogs |
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#24
06-21-2014, 11:07 AM
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The general consensus is that that body colored stick on was the factory applied molding and the screw on channel with inserts was dealer applied. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but everyone seems to be on board with that fact. There are several threads on this forum that discuss this issue.
I would rather not have the molding, but if I must I prefer the color keyed stick on with the correct bullet ends. Somewhere I found a link that contained the lengths and location dimensions for each piece as done by the factory, but I cant relocate that link and I didn't bookmark it. If anyone has an original paint car with the stick on moldings I would really appreciate pictures showing the end cuts and a sketch with dimensions and locations. This may be in the assembly manual, but I don't have one for a 78 Fbody yet. |
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#25
06-27-2014, 09:17 AM
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congrats
Glad you were finally able to fill a childhood dream/goal. When those cars came out, I was 10.. I always loved them. Parents took me to lake Erie, and I saw a 71 blue ta cruising the beach.. that started the fever for me.. I evently, tracked down what I think was that car. A shell of it former self. Paint white, rough. Eventually, sold, just bought back orig 1267, that was on it...
Your TA looking amazing.. that are great place to get cars.. my f bodies 70 and up, are van nuys cars.. wash state great for cars... Where are the colored moldings available? |
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#26
06-27-2014, 08:43 PM
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#27
06-27-2014, 09:24 PM
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That's the car we where gabbing about on the Y88 thread. Nice grab. I'm dying to see the underside picts of that machine. Glad to see you ordered tires for it. It sure needs those. If its everything its claimed to be I thing $25K is decent buy. Seems to needs very little to be 100%
Can't wait to see pictures when it shows up.
__________________
 68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#28
06-28-2014, 06:28 AM
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Well the car should be here by 5:00 pm today and I can't wait to get it on the lift and check the underside myself. The car is supposed to be 100% original and the mechanic reported that the underbody had not been undercoated. However, it is one part of the car I have not seen any pictures of. I'll be sure to post some pictures this evening.
I am also anxious to inspect the right side head and the intake, as my inspector reported they were painted a much darker blue. The head is a 6X-4 head, but I want to see the date code. The intake should be a 10003395 PN which needs checked as well as the date code. If someone could give me a short course on understanding the date code methodology for the head and intake I would be appreciative. The car is a June 1978 build. |
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#29
06-28-2014, 06:36 AM
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Bob,
The date code will be first a letter (for month designation), followed by number for the day, then a number for the year. example: C 25 8 would be March 25th 1978 |
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#30
06-28-2014, 07:08 AM
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It would great if the dates all fell within a few weeks of each other, but if not, doesn't necessarily mean they are not original to the car IMO. But the heads normally are very close to each other in date. I believe there are times though when these engines went together at the factory & one head came from an old casting lot, & the other from a fresh lot of castings. But still close in date, they sure wouldn't be months apart. At least thats what I found with my cars.
If I was taking a wild guess, I would predict your Intake & heads to be something between E018 & F098 The block will probably have a mid/late 1977 casting. The same 4X heads were used on earlier 350's so if it was replaced it could be a mid 70's date even though the W72's didn't exist yet.
__________________
68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#31
06-28-2014, 01:32 PM
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Looking forward to your posted images and info once received. It's like Christmas in June, eh?
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#32
06-28-2014, 03:47 PM
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Update - ETA 7:00pm edt
Man this is dragging out like a bad book...Late start out of Clarksville Tennessee. New ETA of 7:00pm. Sort of like waiting for a mail order bride. Not that I have first hand experience....
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#33
06-28-2014, 04:06 PM
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Post up the video of it coming off the trailer.....and then your burnout.
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#34
06-28-2014, 04:37 PM
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Hell, I'm excited for the arrival and its not even my car!
__________________
'79 SE T/A 400/4spd '12 ZL1 Camaro |
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#35
06-28-2014, 09:26 PM
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The car is cool. Dinner is late. The wife is mad. I am happy, happy, happy...
Here you go guys. Click on the picture for video. More later... 
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#36
06-28-2014, 10:57 PM
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The good, the bad, and the ugly
The good.
There is lots of good stuff on this car. First and foremost the car runs great. Starts right up, runs strong and spins the tires. The exterior is in good shape as is the glass, the interior is in great shape, the trunk looks like new, and the underside is fantastic. There is plenty of grease, grime and oil, but almost no rust. The stripes are still on the driveshaft, the rear springs still show the stenciled part numbers and the floor pan is in great shape. With respect to the floor pan, there is undercoating, but it is hit and miss and almost looks factory. Did the factory apply undercoating to the floor pans? Where there is no undercoating there is zero rust. It's pretty clean...Here are a few pictures of the good.         
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#37
06-28-2014, 11:14 PM
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The bad
Now for the bad.
Several issues that immediately jump out. The exhaust system is crap from the manifolds to the muffler. The car has a true dual exhaust with no catalytic converter. The installation was shoddy to start with and time has not helped it any. It will be replaced very soon, but I need some suggestions on good systems for a 1978. On the transmission the dust cover is missing - if any one has a dust cover please send me a pm. The engine really leaks oil and the rear main seal will need to be addressed this winter. The paint shows more wear than you would like, but at the same time it looks pretty darn good for a 53K mile survivor. The drivers side window needs adjusted, and the sway bar end link bushings are totally missing. All in all - not too shabby. here's some pics.  
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#38
06-28-2014, 11:58 PM
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All in all it looks like a very nice T/A. A little TLC on the underside will really make a difference and should clean up nicely. Curious about the sheet metal extension on the pass. side of the subframe? That's a new one on me.
Congrats Bob it looks right at home in the garage!
__________________
'79 SE T/A 400/4spd '12 ZL1 Camaro |
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#39
06-29-2014, 09:20 AM
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AWESOME burnout!
Most of the same issues I'm dealing with on my 73, I would like to clean off the undercoating and have the factory primer pans too - but that's a project for another day. Any more of those F-bodies in that garage & we're going to start calling it the Birds Nest! 
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#40
06-29-2014, 10:47 AM
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IMO & '78 T/A 6.6 W72 WS6 experience - note: - the missing end link bushings were urethane from the factory for WS6. IIRC most ALL parts books will just show standard rubber end-link bushings which will work but without the urethanes the difference in handling is like night and day. A simple fix that dramatically increases suspension performance as designed by Herb Adams & Pontiac Engineering for WS6. - the stamped subframe extension was installed as a heat shield for fuel lines from the OEM CatCon that was offset and positioned in the passenger footwell area. - exhaust replacement is what you want it to be IMO. Personally both our T/A's have true dual w Dynomax Turbo style Muffs w factory Splitter tips. The '78 has a simple "H" pipe with factory manifolds...and ran 14:89 @ 95mph w closed shaker |
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