[John Milner]

What is everyone's favorite gun for shooting metallic base/clear paint? I will be shooting a car Crystal Turquoise metallic and would like to buy the best gun that I can for shooting the metallic paint. I will be using the gun to shoot the clear as well. Expensive is fine if it makes things easier.

[scott70]

dont know about spray guns but good luck on spraying that. Just picked up my gto sunday from a pro paint shop that got sprayed in its original mint turqiuose metallic in BC/CC.. The guy I had do the body and paint had a hell of a time with mottling. He had never had this issue before painting cars. He finally gave up and we took it to a shop that paints all the time. Came out good so I was relieved but overall a expensive ordeal. Maybe I was being picky but when you looked at it from a angle it was faintly blotchy from mottling. Its getting wet sanded and buffed this week.Good luck to you,,hope it comes out great!

[Formulabruce]

I like the DV-1 . 1.3 tip . Need lots of overlap to get metallic correct. This gun has a sweet, even and wide fan.
Keep in mind that many modern versions of paint colors have pearl in them. Metallic particles are 2 sided, pearls are 5 sided. Modern paints these are added in a suspended form, vs powders they once used.
Keeping the metal And the Paint at 70 to 80 degrees with humidity under 70% is huge for a quality job. Have seen metallic stripes and other issues when booth was warm, paint warm, and car at 60 degrees. This goes for clear coat as well. Good luck !

[dhutton]

https://www.amazon.com/ANEST-IWATA-L...s%2C241&sr=8-3

Don

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by dhutton

https://www.amazon.com/ANEST-IWATA-L...s%2C241&sr=8-3

Don

The IWATA LPH400 is a great gun, BUT, you'll need a 1.3 for it if you spray any hi solids ( or euro clear). 1.4 is just too much for many clears with this great gun.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

The IWATA LPH400 is a great gun, BUT, you'll need a 1.3 for it if you spray any hi solids ( or euro clear). 1.4 is just too much for many clears with this great gun.

I spray SPI high solids Universal and Euro and their single stage with a 1.4. Works great for me. I also use it for base.

Don

[John Milner]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I will take a look at the DV-1 and LPH400. Your car looks good Don.

[eric65]

The best guns are expensive... but you get what you pay for and your saving thousands DIY so a good gun isn't all that expensive then
Devilbiss Tenka, Iwata LPH400 (check which color cap for Iwata one color is better for clear and another color better for Base), Sata 4000/5000 line very expensive... not to say you cant do a good job with a cheaper line ...
All are air hogs -- must have a good compressor lots of tank and lots of flow

color and metallic have a lot to do with your job as well. Silver and gold metallic are tuff. more solid colors are easier

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php

very good forum for painters and tip etc. Barry K is a world of info and is helpful.

[flat-bill]

If you lay it on too wet the metallic will flow and give splotchy results. Billk

Originally Posted by scott70

dont know about spray guns but good luck on spraying that. Just picked up my gto sunday from a pro paint shop that got sprayed in its original mint turqiuose metallic in BC/CC.. The guy I had do the body and paint had a hell of a time with mottling. He had never had this issue before painting cars. He finally gave up and we took it to a shop that paints all the time. Came out good so I was relieved but overall a expensive ordeal. Maybe I was being picky but when you looked at it from a angle it was faintly blotchy from mottling. Its getting wet sanded and buffed this week.Good luck to you,,hope it comes out great!

[carcrazy]

Purchase the best gun you can afford and one that matches your compressor. If you don't plan on doing more cars....sell it and recoup a good portion of your investment.
SATAjet 5000 and Devilbiss GTI Pro are both nice guns.

[400 4spd.]

Another vote for the LPH-400.

[scott70]

Originally Posted by flat-bill

If you lay it on too wet the metallic will flow and give splotchy results. Billk

Yes , I agree from reading about this stuff. He tried the different techniques,,maybe it was ambient temp and humidity but end result was always some amount of mottling. Wet sanded and buffed as of tonight

[John Milner]

What brand of paint did you use Scott? That looks great.

[scott70]

Thanks,,PPG Deltron

[irgoatmike]

Iwata LPH400 with the orange air cap and a 1.3 fluid nozzle is a decent base coat gun. Silver air cap turns it into a viable clear gun. I also like the DeVilbiss Tekna Prolite as it is a good gun for sealer, base, and clear. Notice I did not say best, but good. It comes with two air caps TE20 for base, TE10 for clear. For a DIYer probably the best economical choice with good performance IMHO.

As was stated above, having ENOUGH air is critical. CFM rules with HVLP guns.

irgoatmike

[flat-bill]

I suppose you know that you need to mix the paint with the correct "temperature" additive, reducer, what ever you call it to match the temp of the spray booth. Colder temps call for a faster acting mix. Hotter temps call for a slower mix. If the mix is not right the paint will not flash off fast enough and the metallic will flow and splotch.

Note: I have painted one car with gun metal grey metallic paint with the help of a pro painter. It turned out very well because of my trainer. I am NO expert. Billk

[spieker]

Iwata.Entech with A 1.3 fluid nozzle is the cats ass!

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by flat-bill

I suppose you know that you need to mix the paint with the correct "temperature" additive, reducer, what ever you call it to match the temp of the spray booth. Colder temps call for a faster acting mix. Hotter temps call for a slower mix. If the mix is not right the paint will not flash off fast enough and the metallic will flow and splotch.

Note: I have painted one car with gun metal grey metallic paint with the help of a pro painter. It turned out very well because of my trainer. I am NO expert. Billk

This info IS HUGE. I will add the temp of the METAL or plastic is also critical.
So, Ambient temp and materials temp,and Gun, and Car parts ALL at 70-80 seems best. I have seen molting when car was 10 degrees colder than the air because it was not in the booth long enough to completely warm up.
Note: Massive amounts of clear, even cut and buffed, do NOT fix PEEL in the base coat If it has pearl, or metallic. Even a super flat clear coat can show the mistakes under the clear at an angle. ( show cars only, new cars PEEL is SOP and schools train guys to get factory "PEEL" )