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#61
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I agree that there is SOME restriction with the electric fan as a pusher. The mechanical is pulling and there is a fan in the way. But I can feel the air getting pulled through the rad with the electric off. And when it is kicked on... It might be that all though we are all havinng the same issue with heat and my car and yours might be the same make and model, the variances are what makes the car run hot cold whatever. Try what works. I will be upgrading to a 2400 CFM dual speed fan soon.
1800 CFM on at 160 and then I can add a toggle switch to bump it up to 2400 cfm when I am stuck in traffic. Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
#62
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Before I rebuilt my 389-360 it ran about 225F on the interstate in summer with a copper 4 row radiator. Scared the crap out me on a long haul. I'd run the heater to bring it dow a tad. No issues though. Have a Griffin aluminum unit for the car, but yet to fire it up.
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#63
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If you have not FIRED her up yet, there are many posts that will help.
1. Make sure that the hoses are leak free. 2."massage" the upper hose when you start the engine. This will help the water to get into the block from the rad. I would like to see a follow up as to what your 389 runs after the rebuild. Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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