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burch · 09-22-2002, 01:48 PM

Hi All,

I've got my motor apart, and I'm in the process of running cooling lines from the back of the heads to the front of the intake.

Yesterday, my father-in-law made me some adaptors that press into the holes used by the heater nipple and the freeze plug at the back of the heads. I've got 1/4" NPT to 6AN fittings screwed into them, and I'm going to run the lines to a Moroso SBC water neck.

Pictures:

And just for David Jones, who made fun of me for my bare-metal alternator bracket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

burch · 09-22-2002, 01:48 PM

Hi All,

I've got my motor apart, and I'm in the process of running cooling lines from the back of the heads to the front of the intake.

Yesterday, my father-in-law made me some adaptors that press into the holes used by the heater nipple and the freeze plug at the back of the heads. I've got 1/4" NPT to 6AN fittings screwed into them, and I'm going to run the lines to a Moroso SBC water neck.

Pictures:

And just for David Jones, who made fun of me for my bare-metal alternator bracket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

burch · 09-22-2002, 02:02 PM

Oh, I forgot to post some pictures of the front cover.

I tapped the heater return line in the front cover for 3/8 NPT, and installed a plug.

The nipple is short because I managed to split it right down the middle on the first try. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img]

Tom Vaught · 09-23-2002, 05:24 PM

Post some more photos when you get the Moroso thermostat housing installed with the lines too!
Good luck! Tom V.

burch · 09-23-2002, 06:56 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Tom Vaught:
Post some more photos when you get the Moroso thermostat housing installed with the lines too!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I will. I should have the housing this week, and I'm taking your advice and having my dad-in-law open up the holes on a mill. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

burch · 10-03-2002, 09:50 PM

Here are some pictures of the final mockup. I'm hoping to do the final assembly on the rest of the motor by the end of the weekend.

The Moroso SBC waterneck I bought wouldn't clear the Performer RPM intake, and even though it clears the Street Dominator intake, I would have had to fabricate a new alternator bracket, since the top of the water neck would have moved up about 2 inches.

I didn't feel up to cutting off the water crossover, after screwing up the job on my Performer RPM intake, and after much mockup with accessories, etc... on the motor, we decided to run both lines to the passenger's side of the water crossover. I doubt it really makes much difference.

Front:

Back:

Dave Schiffers · 10-03-2002, 10:00 PM

Why use press in adapters in the back of the heads. Why not just tape both holes and thread in the fittings? Am I mssing something?
Dave.

burch · 10-03-2002, 11:37 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by grumpybear:
Why use press in adapters in the back of the heads. Why not just tape both holes and thread in the fittings? Am I mssing something?
Dave.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

1. The holes in the back of the heads are rather large. I forget the exact size, but I'm fairly certain they're bigger than 1/2" NPT.
2. This way I can always go back to the way things were before, if I ever decide I want my heater back, etc... (although I probably could do so even if I threaded the heads).
3. The adapters were free [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

Dave Schiffers · 10-04-2002, 06:39 AM

Whats the chance of getting a pair of those adapters for me. Also could you not still do this mod. and still use incorperate the heater core? Here in Southern Ontario Canada, we already have to use the heater to get the dew off the windows if we take the toy out in the mornings or evenings. Let me know about the adapters.
Thanks, Dave.

79TA455 · 10-04-2002, 07:09 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by grumpybear:
Here in Southern Ontario Canada, we already have to use the heater to get the dew off the windows if we take the toy out in the mornings or evenings. Let me know about the adapters.
Thanks, Dave.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

We have to do that here too. What a PITA! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] Soon be time to put the car in storage. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif[/img]

67 455 Bird ragtop · 10-04-2002, 07:48 AM

Looks nice. I'm in the process of doing this mod myself. If you use the low profile alum style valley pan you can run the lines under the intake. A little cleaner look. But yours looks good too.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

GTOken · 10-04-2002, 08:17 AM

After going to the trouble of doing this Im not convinced it does much good. How can it be verifed? Im thinking about taking it off and putting it back like it was.

More pics (click here)

--

'68 GTO, '68 Firebird, '77 CanAm

67 455 Bird ragtop · 10-04-2002, 08:33 AM

Was wondering something. For the adapters. Could you use the stock type fitting, cut off the nipples, and drill it out for a bulkhead type fitting. Russell, and others I'm sure, has a fuel cell bulkhead fitting with a teflon seal. Would this type of fitting achieve good seal for the water jacket. Just a thought. Or was that a question ????

Also, I noticed in your post from, October 04, 2002 12:50 AM, that you made two new holes in your intake. But, the existing holes are plugged off. Are you planning on putting something else ther? Was just curious why you didn't run your water lines to existing openings that were plugged off.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

burch · 10-04-2002, 08:56 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop:
Also, I noticed in your post from, October 04, 2002 12:50 AM, that you made two new holes in your intake. But, the existing holes are plugged off. Are you planning on putting something else ther? Was just curious why you didn't run your water lines to existing openings that were plugged off.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, the sending unit for my water temperature gauge and the thermostatic control for my electric fan go into the two 1/2" NPT holes.

My wife thinks I'm insane for drilling holes in an intake manifold I just got on Wednesday--she wanted me to get some pipe tees and just run everything into the existing holes. The only problem is that the probe for the water temperature gauge is large enough in diameter that it would have blocked the flow if I used a tee.

Plus, holes are free, tees cost money! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

burch · 10-04-2002, 08:59 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop:
If you use the low profile alum style valley pan you can run the lines under the intake. A little cleaner look. But yours looks good too.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually, with the Performer RPM there was room to run the lines under the intake with the stock valley pan. The Street Dominator sits a LOT closer to the pan, however.

The main reason I ran them up and around is because without cutting off the water crossover, there's no way to tap the back of the crossover for the fittings.

And even with a low-profile valley pan, there still wouldn't have been room to use a 90-degree hose end on the bottom of the crossover. A 90-degree 1/4" NPT to -6AN fitting would probably clear, though.

67 455 Bird ragtop · 10-04-2002, 09:24 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Jon Burchmore:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop:
If you use the low profile alum style valley pan you can run the lines under the intake. A little cleaner look. But yours looks good too.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Actually, with the Performer RPM there was room to run the lines under the intake with the stock valley pan. The Street Dominator sits a LOT closer to the pan, however.

The main reason I ran them up and around is because without cutting off the water crossover, there's no way to tap the back of the crossover for the fittings.

And even with a low-profile valley pan, there still wouldn't have been room to use a 90-degree hose end on the bottom of the crossover. A 90-degree 1/4" NPT to -6AN fitting would probably clear, though.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ahhhhhhhhh I missed the part where you decided to not cut off the crossover. I have already done that. Thanks for the feed back. This is a VERY good board with lots of ideas and experience.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Half-Inch Stud · 10-04-2002, 09:56 AM

I didn't do any of those mods.

I used a CamBolt & MainStud nut to block the Timing Cover watercrossover hole.

I replaced the Intake Watercrossover with Pressed-in copperpipe, and standard copper plumbing to thread the Temp Sender, made a lousy Y-junction to conect both sides to the Radiator hose.

No overheat issue.

H-I S.

"11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs"

Half-Inch Stud · 10-04-2002, 10:02 AM

However;
This next engine re-assembly will feature the timingcover crossover block done by a tapped Hex-plug.

I assume there will be enough material to tap decent threads.

"11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs"

Robert Williams · 10-04-2002, 12:58 PM

For the fitting on the back of the head you could use the heater fitting for the 1977-1981 301" engines. The standard heater fitting comes straight out of the head, the 301" fitting comes out of the head and then bends 90 degrees. Just clamp your hose onto it. Year one has them in the catalog as part number 6519N. The only problem is they want $24.95 for each one.

Robert Williams

[This message was edited by Robert Williams on October 04, 2002 at 04:24 PM.]

67 455 Bird ragtop · 10-04-2002, 02:02 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Robert Williams:
For the fitting on the back of the head you could use the heater fitting for the 1977-1981 301" engines. The standard heater fitting comes straight out of the head, the 301" fitting comes out of the head and then bends 90 degrees. Just clamp your hose onto it. Year one has them in the catalog as part number 6519N. The only problem is they want $24.95 for each one.

Robert Williams

[This message was edited by Robert Williams on October 04, 2002 at 04:24 PM.]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The other problem is they are two different size holes in the heads.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

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