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#41
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I have a/c, but looking to get the car with the air on run cooler at idle. Now going from a 6.5" pulley that's on the engine now to let's say a 5.75" pulley would likely result in better cooling.
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#42
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Quote:
Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#43
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I know someone with a spare set he can sell reasonably
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 |
#44
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Talk to me big fella!
Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#45
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I'll do some dig'n tonight.
Know i have at least 2 sets of 76-79. And maybe a set off a 70-455 unless i let'm go with the engine(years ago). Whats a fair price?
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 |
#46
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As too price, we may have to go the PM route. Let me know what you find in your dig'n. Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#47
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My car is driving me nuts. Went for a cruise tonight, and 210F in 80F weather. I think my problem is water flow related. When my car is idling, the water in the radiator doesnt appear to be really moving. Flow doesnt seem to increase a lot when I raise engine speed either.
What '67-68 pulleys should I be looking for, diameter and numbers wise? I plan on measuring what I have and I'll post back.
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
#48
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Chip, pull the radiator and have it boiled out..... 43 years will accumulate alot of crap. Flush the block and heater core too. Don't just jump in and start changing things. Start at the source.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#49
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I've already done all that. I've checked and changed everything you can think of several times. This is a 5 year old combo that's always been on edge as far as cooling. I suspected the radiator, but I've had it rodded out 3 times in the last 5 years. It's a desert cooler and should be in decent shape. I will admit it likely needs replacing, but it has some life left in it.
I think my 8-bolt water pump is at least 50% of the problem. Ive had better luck with the 11 bolt pump on other motors. Unfortunately I'm stuck with the 8-bolt until I can figure out how to get those timing cover studs out of the block. See my other thread.
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
#50
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A/C cars have 8" cnk with 6-5/8" w/p pllys.
Non a/c have 7-7/16" crk with 7-15/16" w/p. Someone once told me they got 5 more hp with non a/c pllys over a/c...but i'm not convinced. I think it has more to do with belt squeal at higher rpm.
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 Last edited by Region Warrior; 06-26-2009 at 05:56 PM. |
#51
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Quote:
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The Firebird, GTO & LeMans are gone...the garage is now occupied by 2005 Porsche 997 C2S and more guitars in the house... |
#52
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I'm deff open to that, I just have to address all the other cooling system stuff first.
My W/P pulley is 6.5" and the crank pulley is 8". Sounds like I already got the AC pulleys on my motor. So, what waterpump to use? Ive got both a flowkooler and standard iron impeller 8-bolt pumps. Take a look at a side-by side. Which give you guys the good vibes?
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
#53
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Go with the Flowkooler unit, and check your clearances on the water pump divider plates.
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The Firebird, GTO & LeMans are gone...the garage is now occupied by 2005 Porsche 997 C2S and more guitars in the house... |
#54
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I just pulled the flowkooker because it wasnt doing any better than the other pump did. Looking at the divider plate, the tinfoil beanie on the flowkooler's impeller doesn't fit the contour of the opening as well as the stock pump does. Thats why I asked the thread starter what pump he was running with that nunzi pulley. I was suprised, but I guess maybe the flowkooker needs to be overdriven to work better.
On that note, does anybody understand these 8-bolt divider plates? It looks like the plates block all water flow to the passanger's side. How does the passanger side jacket get any water?
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
#55
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The "divider' plate is supposed to fit halfway along the width of the vanes (front-to-back) dimension, to "divide' the flow from the vanes to each bank.
George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#56
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I havent read the whole thread but the 8 bolt pump 8 blade impeller should do just fine. The divider plate clearance needs to be tight just like the 11 bolt. A little harder to recontour but get those blades to almost touch with no gasket then put it back together with the gasket inplace.
ALSO READ/UNDERSTAND Steve Barcak's block mods for cooling posted in this thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=583733 This is desert and several hundred thousand miles proven. Blocking the passages and opening the others as he does routes the water better and minimizes already cooled water entering the heads and immediately have a substantial portion being directed to the crossover before its had a chance to cool anything. My wifes 406 does ok with the original 3 core without this mod provided she doesnt get caught in a traffic jam over 10 minutes when outside air temp is around 98 or more. Then temp will start to creep over 210 and once there it never wants to come back down. Below 90 degrees we never have issues and rarely exceed 200. I plan to do the block mods before I replace a radiator thats still in vgc. We dont have the AC pulleys and currently have the 11 bolt iron impeller pump. The divider plate clearance mod(her plate touches the pump without a gasket vs near 1/4" found when 1st checked) and moving my aux trans cooler off the radiator (but still in an airstream source) brought my cooling from always above 210 over 80 degree outside temps to mostly in the 190's in temps over 80. below 70 the car runs 170 or less with 160 tstat. Her firebird still not using the upper deflector plates between the rad support and grill frame so there is more cooling opps available before I actually upgrade the radiator. Her engine is not stock btw. We have not had a boilover even when we hit 230 a few times stuck in major 30 minute tie ups 210-220 usually worst it gets. Car likes 20-30% mix antifreeze. Anything more concentrated just pushes temps up. Last edited by BruceWilkie; 06-27-2009 at 04:14 PM. |
#57
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Pulley Depth Dimension
The stock 8-inch water pump pulley on the 389 in my '64 GTO has a rough depth dimension of 2.5 inches. The books referenced so far all list the width demensions but not the depth. It looks like the early cars 64/65 (and maybe up through '67 but not sure) were shorter depth-wise than the later year pulleys. In my quest for a pulley (or pulleys) to increase water pump and fan speed, can anyone tell me which years to look for in order keep that depth dimension close?
Thanks, Mike T. |
#58
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Belt width controls depth at some point. I doubt pulleys are your issue(s). Many other engines than Pontiac use the same size water pump bolt pattern in all kinds of spacing and diameters though if you think more water pump speed is needed. Again water pump impeller blade clearance to divider plate makes a big difference. Thermostat style is also a big difference. Transmission cooler relocation can be a big help as well.
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#59
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Pulley Depth Dimension was the Question
You misunderstood my post, I didn't ask if pulleys were the 'end-all' fix, just asked for measurements, depth measurements, front to back.
Can you provide the answer to that question? Last edited by Vet65te; 06-28-2009 at 10:57 PM. |
#60
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Quote:
__________________
The Firebird, GTO & LeMans are gone...the garage is now occupied by 2005 Porsche 997 C2S and more guitars in the house... |
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