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67Dan · 03-22-2015, 10:01 AM

I had to call Cordone and then post their phone number online to get folks stirred up. I would call them direct and talk to engineering! Make sure you have a good plate as well. I bought several just to see and you would be amazed at how much variation there is. I found an original luckily!

Good luck!

mike389 · 03-22-2015, 04:00 PM

i have the 8 bolt Flowkooler it works better than the old cardone with cast impeller !!!

67Dan · 03-22-2015, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike389

i have the 8 bolt Flowkooler it works better than the old cardone with cast impeller !!!

Who did you buy it from?

67Dan · 03-22-2015, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike389

i have the 8 bolt Flowkooler it works better than the old cardone with cast impeller !!!

Found the site. Impressive. Did you have yours rebuilt or you bought a new unit? Was it a perfect fit. I have a 1967 GTO? Right now mine is fine, but you never know.

mike389 · 03-22-2015, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67Dan

Found the site. Impressive. Did you have yours rebuilt or you bought a new unit? Was it a perfect fit. I have a 1967 GTO? Right now mine is fine, but you never know.

mine was new just had to adjust the plate back out a little !! other wise fit great !

mviker · 04-27-2015, 10:48 AM

I'm kinda miffed at FlowKooler right now. I sent them a 4 bolt pump last year for rebuild and their new super duper cnc'd impeller. It seemed to work fine but I think it increased the pressure and killed my heater core. No problem. I replaced the heater core and installed a restricter on the inlet side. Also replaced my timing cover due to other issues, so I moved the new FlowKooler water pump over to the new timing chain cover. Got all my work done and went to put coolant in and the flangin' water pump is toast. Coolant all over the place. I'm not sure who to be mad at, but dangit, I ain't happy. That thing cost some moolah. Got a regular old fangled water pump on the way. Should be fine once I swap it out. I think I'm going to give FlowKooler a call and have a word with them.

Engine-Ear · 04-27-2015, 09:55 PM

OK Kev this is kinda of topic...CALL the flow kooler guys and see what they say.

...and do report back on what they'll do to remedy your situation. Good feedback travels fast...about half as fast as BAD feedback!

mviker · 04-29-2015, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

OK Kev this is kinda of topic...CALL the flow kooler guys and see what they say.

...and do report back on what they'll do to remedy your situation. Good feedback travels fast...about half as fast as BAD feedback!

Matt... I gave them a call just to find out if they offered a warranty on the water pumps. They don't offer an official warranty per se', but listened to my story and sounded like they'd be willing to work with me if there really is a problem. I was told the 4 bolt pumps are kind of an experiment. If all goes well, then fine, but if they ran into too many issues, they might think about discontinuing. They don't actually rebuild the pumps. They send them off to a guy that does that, then they press their impellers on.

The pump was still on my car when I called, so we agreed that once I had it off, I'd contact them back and we'd go from there.

At this point, I've got another pump on the way. Going to install that, then talk to FlowKooler. To be fair, the pump I sent them to rebuild, was a junkyard pump. It was all there but had been out in the yard for years and was covered in rust. When they worked their magic, it came back looking like new, but I suppose it's possible it may hav had internal problems. Once I'm back on the road, I'll send it to them to check out. I'd guess if it's something they or their rebuild guy could have done better, then I'll get it back freshly redon again. If it's a bad core, then they'll let me know.

I'm not in any way badmouthing them. I think they offer a good product, but I'd also advise folks that do this to understand that since it does improve flow, then it also improves coolant pressure, which means make sure the rest of the system can take it. The blown heater core could be my problem. I've addressed that now by installing a restricter tube on the incoming side of the core. That should prevent future blowouts. The leaking water pump problem is what we agreed may be their responsibility. we'll see how that goes. Right now, I just want to get the car together and take her out. Got a lot solved while it was apart, but I am ready to drive! will let you know what I hear when I get to that part.

Kevin

Engine-Ear · 04-29-2015, 09:41 AM

Good update, Kevin. Thanks!

pontibeast · 05-10-2015, 08:08 PM

So, where does all of this stand as of now? If I replace my pump with the Cardone one will it have proper clearance to reduce my temps of 190-200? If not what is the next best solution? Thanks for helping.

GT182 · 05-10-2015, 09:15 PM

I've not heard a word from Cardone on my inquiry about the part number for the 8 bolt pumps with the correct impeller. If I get a chance... due to a rain out this week... I'll give Cardone another call.

Engine-Ear · 05-11-2015, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pontibeast

So, where does all of this stand as of now? If I replace my pump with the Cardone one will it have proper clearance to reduce my temps of 190-200? If not what is the next best solution? Thanks for helping.

...is that you have your (or a correct spare) rebuilt (lots of sources available if you do a search) buy a shop that understands the clearance issue.

rexs73gto · 05-12-2015, 12:59 AM

I did something this year with my car & the heating . It runs good & stays about 190 in traffic on an avg. 80 deg. day. But it use to be about 180 deg's all the time & this year I went with a new trick. Of course I've already done all the normal ones by clearencing the divider plate & the cast impeller , the wire in the lower hose , the 165 T-Stat, all black hoses the factory shroud, a 7 blade flex fan with a spacer to get it closer to the rad, & inside the shroud more. But this year I added an extra 1" spacer to the front of the 2" factory spacer , also I have a 4 core Alum. rad.. The extra spacer seems to have done what I've been trying to do for the last 5-6 years since I put in the new engine. I really don't know what did it but whatever did or all of it, it did what it should have done all along. I'm about 2 1/2"'s from the rad. & it is inside the shroud all the way. The back of the fan blades are right at the edge of the front, or back depending on how your looking at it , but it's inside the shroud now by about 1/2" & it is staying right at 170 deg.'s while sitting in the garage running today. It ran for about 20 min's & never got over the 170 deg. mark. I call that great. I hope this helps you to.

68azbird · 05-12-2015, 11:04 PM

Great to hear this.
I will pass on the idea to a few friends having the same issues.

rexs73gto · 05-13-2015, 12:23 AM

I to went through all the things everyone else did when I put this new engine in 4 years ago, & it got a little better with each little thing I did. I did them all 1 at a time to see if any 1 thing made any big difference. Making the divider plate closer I think made the biggest difference , UNTIL it did this last one with the extra spacer in the fan. Then that actually made the biggest difference in all the things I did.

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