[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

67ramairowner, my friend Bill did use it on the roof under his headliner, and it really stuck well. He did not use it in the doors. At the time, I asked him, and he just said he didn't feel the need. His car had O rust and is a dry CA car he's had since 1977. The factory stuff sprayed on the inside of his doors was still fine. If it were me, I'd probably roll some Frost King or whatever in the doors and quarter panels when the glass was out. The stuff is not very heavy, and seems to really "tighten up" the car. Beware of some stuff, though. I went to an autobody class a couple of years ago, and the instructor told us of an old car (I think it was a Packard) that was destroyed by the guy shooting that yellow expanding foam into the rockers and a-pillars, etc. The stuff turned out to be acidic and a water-absorber, and his car rusted out everywhere within a couple of years and was not repairable.....but it sure was quiet for a short time!!

Expandible foam!!!!! What next? Blown in attic insulation???? A former owner of my house is / was an expandible foam junkie. It was like he told his kid "Go put this everywhere you can feel a draft"!!!! For better or worse I replaced a bunch of doors and windows with quality Andersen products and ridded myself of the Foam! It is a HUGE PIA to remove even if you can access it. In my case it went out with the old windows!!!

I am thinking that the doors and the roof as well as the area behind the quarter windows is gonna get done on this car and my car. Also, some A-Body cars had a cardboard / fiberboard divider between the trunk and the rear seat. I have to think that the back seat (without that board) has to be a huge source of warm air from a hot trunk. Said another way any cool air from the A/C that "leaks" thru the rear seat is wasted trying to cool the trunk. I am for certain getting one of those boards for my car. I plan to over it with insulation and install it behind the rear seat. I have learned a lot about this insulation game from the improvements achieved in houses..it has to be the same for the cars...keep the heat out and keep the cool in for summer comfort. Learning about the various products out there is very interesting. Thanks for your help and followup!!!!

[Pontirag]

hope this is clearer

as for the expandibel foam. its a really really bad idea. many who tried it in aluminium skinned aircraft found that , at first it adhered to the innder skin of the aircraft but over time vibrations would cause a separation between the foam and the skin. condensation would collect between foam and the skin and very quickly rot the skin from the inside out. it would no doubt do the same to a cars sheet metal.

[underseaworld]

I used the frost king on my 64 conv lemans. It calmed down the temp and road noise a lot. I also did the doors. Had problems getting the frost king to stick vertically. I had some extra spray glue and used it to get it to stick a lot better. I thought about the foil back bubble insulation but decided on the frost king instead. The install was real simple. It contours to the car real good all you need is a good roller.

[Garage Goat]

When you say you did the doors. Was it applied to the door skin or to the steel behind the door panel?

[underseaworld]

I applied it to the material and let it tack up and then applied it to the door.

[Goat & Chicken Farmer]

Dad and I used a product called RoadKill, it is marketed as sound dampner. It was wayyy less expensive than the Dynamatt. The sheets worked well in the doors, installed on a sunny day outside temp about 75 degrees, used a paint stir stick to press it to door between the reinforcement and the door skin, 2 or 3 inch wide foil tape for the seams and the thing looks like a space capsule, we did the entire floor from firewall to half way up the trunk partition and in the rear quarters and the cabin half of the rear wheel wells. The stuff sticks real good.

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by Goat & Chicken Farmer

Dad and I used a product called RoadKill, it is marketed as sound dampner. It was wayyy less expensive than the Dynamatt. The sheets worked well in the doors, installed on a sunny day outside temp about 75 degrees, used a paint stir stick to press it to door between the reinforcement and the door skin, 2 or 3 inch wide foil tape for the seams and the thing looks like a space capsule, we did the entire floor from firewall to half way up the trunk partition and in the rear quarters and the cabin half of the rear wheel wells. The stuff sticks real good.

Whre does one get "Roadkill". I can just see myself going to some vendor and saying I want to buy some Road Kill!!!!! LOL!!

What was your experience with this stuff as far as thermal insulation?

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

hope this is clearer

as for the expandibel foam. its a really really bad idea. many who tried it in aluminium skinned aircraft found that , at first it adhered to the innder skin of the aircraft but over time vibrations would cause a separation between the foam and the skin. condensation would collect between foam and the skin and very quickly rot the skin from the inside out. it would no doubt do the same to a cars sheet metal.

MUCH better. Thank You again!!!

[Goat & Chicken Farmer]

Originally Posted by 67ramairowner

Whre does one get "Roadkill". I can just see myself going to some vendor and saying I want to buy some Road Kill!!!!! LOL!!

What was your experience with this stuff as far as thermal insulation?

Sorry, We got ours at a local stereo shop. (a low key stereo shop, a lot less expensive than some around) As far as thermal insulation, I gotta believe it helps. It sure makes the car seem more solid. It is thick foil on one side and a thick tar like stuff that goes against the metel, cut peel and stick, press in place with a roller or use the back of a screwdriver to form and press out air pockets, seal seams with foil tape. Ta Da!

[Pontirag]

a friend of mine installed that stuff. best advice he gave me was to roll it ip. install it in the door, unroll it and very carefully a little at a time unpeal it and stick it to the inside of the door.

very very good advice

[blue goats]

I used frost king too.I think its made for wrapping steel ducts. It's easy to install on the floor but for the ceiling and doors I used 3M spray adhesive to make sure they stayed.
Hope this helps ,
George

[Pontirag]

3M is good for a while but hardens, becomes brittle and disintegrates after a couple of years, quicker in hoter climates

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

3M is good for a while but hardens, becomes brittle and disintegrates after a couple of years, quicker in hoter climates

What adhesive do you recommend for use in the roof area and the doors? I am sure that some of these products come with adhesive but I am now wondering what I should use not only for the insulation but for the adhesive!!!! I know that the "silver tape" that goes on heating ducts is almost totally unremovable. Seems to me that adhesive (whatever it is) would be the hot ticket to keep insulation stuck to places like the insides of door skins and the underside of roofs.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by 67ramairowner

Could you please redo the second thumb of the article. I cannot seem to get it into a form that I can read. I think that the scan quality in the 2nd thumb you posted is not as good as the first page for some reason

Me too.

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Me too.

He already did it! Look at the follow on positing he made.

[Pontirag]

The product I was refering to above comes in a spray can and comes out looking like a cream color and hardens to a yellow color. works ok for a while on clean surfaces but crystalizes to very hard and turns to dust.It was made by 3M but I cannot recomend that. I have seen beautifle headliners with insulation flopping around behind them that really ruin the looks of the interiour.

. In the aircraft industry we used this stuff By 3M that was like a black RTV sealant. we used it to seal gaskets around the doors in aircraft. (pressurized cabins)It worked very very well You must clean off any old sound deadener otherwise it will stick to that but the old sound deadener will peal away from the roof metal. Its ok to have a rough surface on the roof metal, even a little rust does not hurt but maybe clean off anything loose with a scotchbright pad...just to remove the loose stuff. then apply this stuff and it works very well for long time.

I wish I knew what it was called but it worked very very well. I would contact 3M or look in the aircraft spruce and specialty company's catologe. it was about 8 bucks a tube

[blue goats]

Pontirag,
I did my interior install 7 years and 40K ago and the frost king still has not fallen.
George

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by blue goats

Pontirag,
I did my interior install 7 years and 40K ago and the frost king still has not fallen.
George

George

Confused by your response. Did you use 3M product as adhesive with the Frost King or did you use Frost King with whatever adhesive it comes with? If you used a 3M adhesive WITH Frost King what 3m product #? What was the purpose of the product? 3M has more products than you can shake a stick at and they change things in their lineup all the time.

Since my current questions are surrounding the roof and the glue used to secure the material to the roof can you clarify the following?

We are talking about your install being on the roof?

Did you use the standard adhesive on the Frost King?

How did you secure the insulation if you used another adhesive other than what might have come on the insulation what was Adhesive Product maker, intended OEM use and product #?

If you used "outta the box Frost King" all these questions are unimportant but with all the varying ideas and valued opinions I need to clarify the fine points of each response.


Thanks!!!

[Goat & Chicken Farmer]

I have never heard of Frost King but the Roadkill material that we used had a paper backing that you remove from the tar-like surface that sticks real well to the metel of the car, the use of a roller and the handle end of a screwdriver helped to stick it and any air pockets are easily removed by a small slice with a razor knife, smooth and patch with foil tape.

[RAM YAK II]

Hey "geeteeohguy" what is the usage of Frost King, heating and a/c or roofing? I can't find it in our local (Lansing, Michigan) Home Depot or Lowes.

Doug....