['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by KO

This is an even better compressor alternative, uses original brackets, genuine GM parts, new 134a technology

http://www.s6compressor.com/products.html

Like the idea of less weight. I'd like to see someone offer a well designed aluminum type cover that would slide on from the rear & bolt over this S6 compressor, so it would look more like an A6, & I could then detail the cover with a repro A6 decal. Looking at an A6 compressor here on the bench, it could be done. A tube shaped cover with an aluminum rear plate that the 4 exterior clamping bolts ran through. Still save a ton of weight, yet look closer to stock for restorations. (realize the clutch would not not look stock).

What year of vehicles is this Delphi compressor used on? I'm assuming the main body part of the S6 compressor is Delphi piece with the thick square front mounting plate being what S6 has adapted?

[OrbitOrange]

How would I do this on my 70 GTO?

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by OrbitOrange

How would I do this on my 70 GTO?

What are you looking to do? Are you referring to my conversion or the S6?

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by OrbitOrange

How would I do this on my 70 GTO?

A number of years ago there was a guy on here with a 68 GTO who used the stock evap box with an evaporator from a 79 Deville(?). It had an orifice tube already plumbed into the evap inlet (thermal expansion valve and POA were eliminated). He used an accumulator (late 70's/80's) on the evap outlet, A6 compressor, and it cycled on an accumulator pressure switch. And IIRC, he had to do some custom hose fabrication and matching of a couple of fittings. That build inspired me. It's the nice thing about millions of cars made by GM - many compatible parts if you are adventurous enough. I tried searching for the thread, but couldn't find it.

IDK... I might try something similar with my 72 Lemans, but the heater/AC stuff has been so butchered before I got it that I would probably be money ahead to do aftermarket. But the junkman deep inside me wants to get crazy...

[Squidward]

BTW, Frankie, thumbs WAY up!

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by Squidward

BTW, Frankie, thumbs WAY up!

Thanks Squid, factory A/C is never too far gone. The under dash part is what needs to be intact, everything under the hood gets switched out anyway. Going modern using a new evaporator and a new(not rebuilt) R4 compressor can be done for less than $400.00. The A/C upgrade is definitely one of the easiest swaps. It can even be done in stages if on a budget. The most expensive part is the new compressor at $175.00.

[Rastoy]

Knowing nothing, zero, zip about air conditioning, I need to replace the compressor in my '71 Lemans - at a minimum the clutch is gone. What would you suggest I replace and where would you recommend I get the parts? I have a friend who offered to help do it and would like to have everything needed before he comes over. I don't mind buying stuff I may not need.
Thanks..

[FrankieT/A]

Rastoy, are you looking for complete originality or would function and better gas mileage be of more interest? The answer to that will will determine the best way to go. Are you willing to jump through some hoops or just the easiest route?

[Rastoy]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Rastoy, are you looking for complete originality or would function and better gas mileage be of more interest? The answer to that will will determine the best way to go. Are you willing to jump through some hoops or just the easiest route?

I don't care about originality since it's not a numbers matching motor. Better gas mileage doesn't matter since the motor was built to race (the prior owner did that).

[OrbitOrange]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

What are you looking to do? Are you referring to my conversion or the S6?

Well, let me give you some information on what I have and maybe you can give me an idea of what to do.

I have the compressor brackets, old compressor (not sure of condition), the evaporator and well thats pretty much it under the hood! Well the compressor isnt even bolted on right now.

Condenser, hoses everything else pretty much gone! I have worked on some newer AC systems but when I look at this it looks ancient to me! I dont mind buying a new compressor. I just wish I could find a new condenser for less than $200 that will fit. And I have no clue what brackets I need to mount it because it was all missing. I like to keep a clean engine bay. Less, means more to me under the hood. So the smaller compressor looks like its right up my alley! Plus easier access to other parts on the engine like you mentioned.

[FrankieT/A]

Do you want to convert to the later model R4 compressor? If you with the later model stuff there are no moving parts except the compressor. If so you will have to locate the AC brackets from a 77-81 Pontiac with a 301. This will be the most challenging part of the conversion. They can be from any model. Then you can buy a brand new compressor from Advance Auto parts or O'Rielly or similar. I paid $175.00 for a brand new(not rebuilt) compressor. You will need to purchase an evaporator, I suggest a new AC Delco, they have the most efficiency. The evap can come from a 78-81 firebird, or a caprice and/or lastly a C10 pick up. All from the same vintage. That should be $100-$120 bucks. Any brand accumulator usually 20-22 dollars. Now for hose assembly; you can either match up one from any of the cars listed or put one together for yourself. If you put one together yourself then the manifold(the part attached to the compressor for the hoses) you can go to a good parts store and look in their catalog and find the one you want, there are several that go in differing directions, hose is sold by the foot, you buy your hose ends, put everything together and voila you're ready to vacuum down the system.

A word on compressors: people will tell you the A6 compressor is the best. The problem with the A6 is, if the head pressure should go up, like on a hot day, the effort to drive the compressor increases dramatically. The clutch assembly is small in diameter and doesn't have enough leverage to overcome fully. This situation creates a lot of heat and in short order burns up the clutch. The factory must have known this because depending on the year they installed superheat switches, thermolimiters and so on.
In my opinion the R4 compressor is way more efficient and has a bigger clutch. Although the some R4's do have superheat switches a lot don't. I wouldn't swear on it but but I'm willing to bet the R4 takes less HP to run. You can also run a low pressure switch to make it cycle. Mine really doesn't cycle on a real hot day of normal driving, but at night or on a long highway like more than a thirty minute trip it does cycle, therefore increasing fuel economy.

This should be enough info to start with if you want to go this route. By all means ask any questions you may have.
Frank

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by OrbitOrange

Well, let me give you some information on what I have and maybe you can give me an idea of what to do.

I have the compressor brackets, old compressor (not sure of condition), the evaporator and well thats pretty much it under the hood! Well the compressor isnt even bolted on right now.

Condenser, hoses everything else pretty much gone! I have worked on some newer AC systems but when I look at this it looks ancient to me! I dont mind buying a new compressor. I just wish I could find a new condenser for less than $200 that will fit. And I have no clue what brackets I need to mount it because it was all missing. I like to keep a clean engine bay. Less, means more to me under the hood. So the smaller compressor looks like its right up my alley! Plus easier access to other parts on the engine like you mentioned.

I'm gonna look to see if I can dig up a pic from an old thread

[FrankieT/A]

Ok go back to post 2 or 3. Don't mind the dirt this car is driven every day. Matter of fact I just got back from a 2000 mile trip to NC and back.

[gillyiowa]

Frankie Ta,is the bolt that holds the manifold to the compressor anything special? What size is it?

[OrbitOrange]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Ok go back to post 2 or 3. Don't mind the dirt this car is driven every day. Matter of fact I just got back from a 2000 mile trip to NC and back.

Power tour? They came through where I live in Bama.

[DanC]

Does anyone happen to know what evap with the oriface tube would retrofit the '68 Firebird suitcase?

I have a factory air car, but installed a Classic Air unit for the "flat firewall". Although the CA unit works perfect and has a duct discharge temp of ~36', it just does not have the volume to cool down my convertable. Feels great if the blower is on high and the air is blowing directly on ya, otherwise just warm and humid at best.

Would really like to get the Harrison evap back in there. Thought of going with the $100 "POA Eliminator" thingy, http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air...minator-45.php and using the CA Sanden compressor and condensor currently installed.

What I really want though is a new evap with the oriface setup, or even a VIR, that will fit my factory "suitcase". Had many a Pontiac with factory a/c, including a '69 Bonne Convertable, and they all could freeze ya out!

Thanks,
DanC

[LATECH]

The POA setup is the best way to go if you wanna hang beef in your ride.
You can re calibrate the POA for R 134a . it will work well.
Also BIG DIFFERENCE will be made if you run a paralell flow condenser as they are the most efficient. They can be pretty well hidden so appearance wont be much of an issue.
Chances are you can find one that isnt far from OE looking anyhow.
The orifice tube systems cant produce quite the duct temp and arent recommended to run the A 6 on. It would not appear correct undehood with the R 4.
As stated before here , the A 6 has a small diameter clutch and doesnt handle cycling well. Also The R 4 wasnt made to run continuously ...like the A 6 was with the POA system.
FWIW I just retroed a 70 impala with a R 4 and yhe evap was from a 77, first year for the CCOT system(orifice tube.) The evap was almost an exact fit. Used the drier for the same and it also worked.He needed the CCOT system as his crate motor has the compressor and brackets for the R 4 allready and he is doing the AC on the cheap.
Also dont forget that the blower fan is in front of the evap, as far as airflow goes, so be certain your evap case is sealed very well, or all your cool air will leak out before it hits the dash vents......ask me how I know.

[bsblguy]

I ordered a parallel flow condenser from classic auto air for my GTO, hasn't arrived yet but suppose to be direct fit, brackets and all so only way to tell not original would be to look thru the grill and see it's not a tube and fin. Hope what they say about it is true.

[LATECH]

PF s are the most efficient design to date. Heat transfer is optimized by design.
Its the way to go , especially with R 134a. Good move.

[FrankieT/A]

I use the low pressure switch with my late model setup, and it gets cold enough to cycle. FWIW