[fiesta62]

Originally Posted by GT182

I was asking to see photos of the 8 bolt water pump with a side view of the impeller. Then we could tell if the impeller's contour is your problem.

Have fun with the electric Stewart water pump. I'm not trying to be a wise a**, but IMHO you're just wasting money and adding $s to your mechanics pocketbook. It's your choice. Good luck and I hope it works out ok.

my original pump is on car so I cant do pics....I will be fitting the electric pump soon so will know if I wasted money or not....but just think if this does actually fix the issue then all these guys with heat issues can just fit one and all is good,....the pump has a switch so it can be switched off at any time as its a flow thru design....so if your stuck in traffic on a hot day just switch on another 55 gal a minute.......too easy,,,

[Old Goat 67]

yes I know is a lot but I really don't care....if it don't fix it I have wasted more money and time....but if car runs at I hope around 180 all day long then that $450 will be quickly forgotten, wouldnt u agree.....

I'm sorry, no.

All it cost me was $30 for a CORRECT water pump with a CORRECT impeller and I run at 180° all day long, even with AC on in 100° temps.

Charles

[fiesta62]

well I cant argue with that, u got yours working right...but I have had my pump modified and plate welded inside on top of the impeller to be similar design to the flow cooler pump...so the blades are closed in just as the flow cooler pump is....so I cant see any issue with my original pump, we have done that and everything else, so came to the point of thinking the pump is a poor design so am trying the electric pump, .....correct me if I am wrong but pontiac changed the design of the pumps in 69 why would they do this, only reason could be is that the early design was not cooling good enough...they also used smaller water pump pulley size in 68 to pump water faster, another indication that the original design 67 pump was not perfect...though only my thoughts I'm no expert, I'm over the whole thing if this electric pump works I will be a happy camper...

[george kujanski]

Welding on the plate is ok, but if the plate and the impeller itself has too much clearance to the inside if the internal housing, the coolant will recycle around the impeller and internal housing instead of being forced into the cooling jackets on each bank. The welded plate alone won't fix a large clearance.

The additional plate on a flow cooler doesn't address the clearance issue either, looks fancier tho.

The pump works by drawing fluid thru the center hole (in OLD Goat's left pic) and increasing the pressure out towards the impeller vane tips. With too much clearance, the fluid from the higher pressure area will go back to the suction side and you get recirculation, instead of drawing fluid in from the radiator. The clearance needs to be minimized. If you already have that, fine.

George

[fiesta62]

my mechanic did all the plate clearance , checked and rechecked...we went thru all that , so we were scratching our heads just without any idea what to do next...

[p4msi1]

Install aluminum radiator, flow cooler pump and a small pulley from a 67-68 chevy pick-up truck with the 350 engine. Its about 5 1/4" diameter. If I took out the t-stat in my trans am it would only run about 120* idleing with the a/c on in hot weather. I went ahead and installed duel cooling fans and removed the engine driven fan to make room for the pro-charger. All works fine and overheating is NOT one of my concerns. Did this same trick to my 69 with a 535 motor and it runs even cooler. It runs about 140 in the heat at 60 mph and the fans off.

[p4msi1]

I forgot to mention one other thing I did. I welded the coolant bypass closed on the housing and the intake manifold then clipped about 1/4" off the t-stat on both sides to allow water to bypass there. This way I route all the water through the radiator to be cooled.

Steve

[p4msi1]

Forgot something else. The chevy pulley came either with 1 or 2 groove. The part # starts with 13xxxxx. You may need to shim it out with washers for correct belt alignment. All I did was use carburator studs in the w/p and slide washers on them till I got the alignment right. Piece of cake.

[INJUNTOM]

Originally Posted by p4msi1

Forgot something else. The chevy pulley came either with 1 or 2 groove. The part # starts with 13xxxxx. You may need to shim it out with washers for correct belt alignment. All I did was use carburator studs in the w/p and slide washers on them till I got the alignment right. Piece of cake.

I think Moroso or someone like that actually makes shims for that purpose specifically. Use them on my cars to fine tune the pulley alignment.

[INJUNTOM]

BTW, can't wait to hear about the electric pump. When will we find out?

[indymanjoe]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

I'm sorry, no.

All it cost me was $30 for a CORRECT water pump with a CORRECT impeller and I run at 180° all day long, even with AC on in 100° temps.

Charles

This all day.I doubt any of our pontiacs when new with A/C on, in Arizona ever overheated when new.Sloppy mechanics in the day and crappy rebuilt water pumps is the reason they get hot now.(Most of the time)LOL

[fiesta62]

Originally Posted by INJUNTOM

BTW, can't wait to hear about the electric pump. When will we find out?

i have fitted the pump but have to wait for my electrician to hook it up, probably a week or so away....all fitted real easy on the bottom hose...pics attached

[INJUNTOM]

Well like you said, if it allows you to do what you want to with it, then it's worth every penney. I'm putting by 67 back on the road and added aftermarket A/C that I'd like to use all the time, but suspect that I may be limited in my usage here in one of the hotter areas of CA.

One thing to keep in mind about all this stuff cooling and performance-wise is that cars react differently in different parts of the country even though the temps may be similar. Altitude, humidity, etc all play a role. One good example is the high compression head issue. You absolutely can't run them here with any kind of decent timing curve and cheap gas. A lot of guys on here have bashed guys telling them it's this or that and that they get away with it, but here you have to pull timing out of the ignition system killing power, still use premium gas and still have pinging issues.

My mild roller cammed 455 with '71 96 heads runs on regular unleaded, full timgin curve and has never pinged.

[fiesta62]

Originally Posted by p4msi1

I forgot to mention one other thing I did. I welded the coolant bypass closed on the housing and the intake manifold then clipped about 1/4" off the t-stat on both sides to allow water to bypass there. This way I route all the water through the radiator to be cooled.

Steve

I did a similar thing , i put a stainless washer with quarter inch hole into the bypass to restrict the flow

[fiesta62]

Originally Posted by INJUNTOM

Well like you said, if it allows you to do what you want to with it, then it's worth every penney. I'm putting by 67 back on the road and added aftermarket A/C that I'd like to use all the time, but suspect that I may be limited in my usage here in one of the hotter areas of CA.

One thing to keep in mind about all this stuff cooling and performance-wise is that cars react differently in different parts of the country even though the temps may be similar. Altitude, humidity, etc all play a role. One good example is the high compression head issue. You absolutely can't run them here with any kind of decent timing curve and cheap gas. A lot of guys on here have bashed guys telling them it's this or that and that they get away with it, but here you have to pull timing out of the ignition system killing power, still use premium gas and still have pinging issues.

My mild roller cammed 455 with '71 96 heads runs on regular unleaded, full timgin curve and has never pinged.

yep I put in the aftermarket classic air system.....I know there are various guys saying they are running cool without doing anything much but lots of things can effect a cars cooling like u say they react different, my engine has been rebuilt by previous owner, has a different cam, and I'm in oz different climate, and of course the petrol we all use nowdays is not the same, I'm really hoping this new electric pump does the trick, its should be good , and as I can just switch it off anytime thats good to warm up car faster on those cooler days, to be continued............

[fiesta62]

small pulley from a 67-68 chevy pick-up truck with the 350 engine. Its about 5 1/4" diameter.

I might go down to this 5 1/4 size if the electric pump don't fix the issue, though I have already gone down from 8 inch to 6 -1/4.....