[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

200* at idle or 200* doing 65 down the road.

200-205 at idle sitting at a light. Highway@65 190-195

Idle is usually effected by air movement through the rad and air in the system.

Highway speeds is either air is not going through the rad, but around it, or coolant movement.

If my car is running 195* and I am going down RT 15 here (Huge 4 mile downhill 55 MPH highway), the second I put it in neutral, the temps shoot up to over 205*. Almost instantly. I have the Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan set-up. Then when I get to the bottom of the hill, throw it 5th gear, the temps shoot down to under 170*. As soon as the RPM's of the water pump increase.

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Also where is your temp sensor? In the coolant crossover? Keep in mind that spot is where the engine is putting out the hottest coolant back to the radiator.

The sensor is in the crossover.

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

New T-stat? (although the t-stat only regulates the MINIMUM operating temperature.)

yes, new thermostat, but I purchased a new one again last night. I'll test it before I install it.

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Air sealing kit around rad?

No special sealing kit around rad.

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Down flow or cross flow? Down flows seem to have issues if the rad hose is higher that the return inlet, air gets trapped.

Crossflow.

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Lower rad hose have the spring in it?

Ha!!!! No spring!!!

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Are you sure that you burpped all of the air out of the system?

Pretty sure, just not 100%

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Mechanical or electric gauge?

Electric

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

ANd yes, if you are getting vacuum at the ported line at idle the carb has an issue.

No vacuum at the ported line at idle.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

I just read everything over and believe I see something. You say that you only get 5or6" of vacuum at the port but 20" manifold? On the Q-Jet there is a port for emissions equipment that only gets partial vacuum. You need to connect the VA to a port that has no vacuum at idle but once you crack the throttle slightly(not WOT) it should have full manifold vacuum.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

I just read everything over and believe I see something. You say that you only get 5or6" of vacuum at the port but 20" manifold? On the Q-Jet there is a port for emissions equipment that only gets partial vacuum. You need to connect the VA to a port that has no vacuum at idle but once you crack the throttle slightly(not WOT) it should have full manifold vacuum.

I changed a few things since my initial post.

1) I got the Carb Adjusted to the correct mixture, Idle speed, and AFR settings.

2) I moved the Vac Advance from ported, to manifold.

3) I adjusted the timing to the 12 initial.

These three changes resulted in the engine temp decreasing to the 200 deg temp at idle, and the 190-195 during highway speeds.

I am going to add a spring to the lower rad hose, and change the thermostat.

I am also going to add some coolant to the mix, as I am only running water.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I changed a few things since my initial post.

1) I got the Carb Adjusted to the correct mixture, Idle speed, and AFR settings.

2) I moved the Vac Advance from ported, to manifold.

3) I adjusted the timing to the 12 initial.

These three changes resulted in the engine temp decreasing to the 200 deg temp at idle, and the 190-195 during highway speeds.

I am going to add a spring to the lower rad hose, and change the thermostat.

I am also going to add some coolant to the mix, as I am only running water.

If connected to the correct port you will get manifold vacuum except at idle.

Adding coolant will not improve temps because straight water cools better than anti-freeze/coolant. Coolant is just a marketing term.

[Larry Navarro]

yep, the spring will keep the hose from collapsing, which limits water flow.

[AdamIsAdam]

Is the a source for the hoses with springs? Don't see anything listed with springs on Napa, Rock Auto, etc

[Jeff Hamlin]

You can but just the spring in SS,
Check Summit and/or Jegs.

[frbformula]

Just go to napa with the length of the hose you need and say you need a x dia radiator hose x long with the spring in it. They are universal hoses i believe so they may not come up car specific. Thats how i got mine. I run one for the top and bottom rad hose. Also look into an overdrive crank pulley. Cvf (i think thats the company) makes one. It will drive the water pump faster at idle. Thats another thing i have on my engine. With my last motor (about 500 hp) i could highway drive it with out the electric fan on and it would stay right around 170-180

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Is the a source for the hoses with springs? Don't see anything listed with springs on Napa, Rock Auto, etc

The last time I bought a "Gates" hose at O'reilly's it had the spring in it.

[chuckies76ta]

What brand thermostat are you using? I had bad luck with Mr Gasket. Go to Napa and get a premium Stainless steel one. Make sure to check it like others have said.

Is the block hard blocked? If so, I would try running a 160 thermostat.

Charles

[69*Goat]

Ok guys, here is an update.

1) Installed a spring in the lower radiator hose(Went on a two supply house goose chase)

2) Purchased NAPA "Premium" 180 deg thermostat, and tested it. It started opening at 180, and was fully open by 190 deg.

3) re-installed lower rad hose with spring, Filled the engine with water, and installed new thermostat.

4) Filled the radiator with water, and started the engine.

5) I let it warm up to 180, and I observed water flowing through the radiator at the 185-190 mark on the temp gauge. Ok, now I know the gauge is off...

6) The engine idle seemed low, so I checked the timing. It had retarded a couple of degrees, so I reset it, and really torqued the dist.

At idle in the garage, it did not get above 190(According to the gauge) . I will have to wait for it to stop raining so I can test drive it.

[Pepi]

Just a question. Why do you think the gauge is off if the thermostat started opening at 180 and was fully opened by 190. Your gauge was showing around that range.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by Pepi

Just a question. Why do you think the gauge is off if the thermostat started opening at 180 and was fully opened by 190. Your gauge was showing around that range.

I expected that it would stay at the 180-185 mark if it started letting cooler water in at the 180 mark.

[Squidward]

Lot of talk a few posts ago about collapsing spring.

I mulled this over in the noggin for a bit. My spring rusted away/broke a while back. I removed it.

Maybe I have a particularly rigid lower hose, but I have not encountered this phenomena. I guess the spring was developed for a reason, tho.

It seems to me that this collapsing suction hose would be most likely caused by a clogged radiator or stuck shut tstat. Hard to believe that enough d/p gets created to collapse a hose if the radiator flows water freely.

If collapsing hose occurs during cold start before the tstat opens, I can see that. But at temp with tstat open and a properly flowing rad?

I am still running cool, and ready to put a tstat back in soon. 160's-170's at cruise with 110* outside temps, heat soaking at stoplight got to 180's. I backed off my manifold vac timing last week, from 17 to 15 just to see how things behave with a little more conservative tune. Still at 18* init, 18 mech. FWIW.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by Squidward

I am still running cool, and ready to put a tstat back in soon. 160's-170's at cruise with 110* outside temps, heat soaking at stoplight got to 180's. I backed off my manifold vac timing last week, from 17 to 15 just to see how things behave with a little more conservative tune. Still at 18* init, 18 mech. FWIW.

The timing issue keeps getting thrown into the mix. Jeff Kauffman told me "These heads don't like a lot of timing, keep it at 32 deg max not including the Vac adv."

Ok, that is where I have it.

If I advance the timing, and the engine runs cooler, does that mean it's happier there?

It may be a stupid question, but I have the head manufacturer telling me one thing, and I am thinking Every engine is different.

Then I see Squidward running 18 initial.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

The timing issue keeps getting thrown into the mix. Jeff Kauffman told me "These heads don't like a lot of timing, keep it at 32 deg max not including the Vac adv."

Ok, that is where I have it.

If I advance the timing, and the engine runs cooler, does that mean it's happier there?

It may be a stupid question, but I have the head manufacturer telling me one thing, and I am thinking Every engine is different.

Then I see Squidward running 18 initial.

Sounds like it still running lean to me. Your motor will love more advance the more lean it runs. A A/F gauge may be a good test tool for you next.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by rohrt

Sounds like it still running lean to me. Your motor will love more advance the more lean it runs. A A/F gauge may be a good test tool for you next.

I have an AFR gauge on it, and have used it to adjust the carb.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I have an AFR gauge on it, and have used it to adjust the carb.

In that case, have you verified the harmonic balancer has not slipped?

One other thing that comes to mind is my brother has the OF cam in two cars and he mentioned they liked a little more timing then Kauffman suggested.

Sounds like you have made some progress????
I would try moving back to manifold vacuum and do more testing with the timing. My 326 likes ported my 455 like manifold vacuum.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I have an AFR gauge on it, and have used it to adjust the carb.

What are the AFR numbers you have it tuned to? Are you on the rich side of stoich?

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

What are the AFR numbers you have it tuned to? Are you on the rich side of stoich?

I am on the rich side 13.8-14.1 that's at idle in park.

Going down the road, it's 13.3-13.9.

It idles like it is a little "Sloppy" in drive at a light when warm.