[AdamIsAdam]

good news. Did you just point one of those infrared temp guns at those spots to get those readings? I have one and I have to do the same thing soon. I would have expected the heads to be much hotter though.

[69*Goat]

Yes Adam it was a point and shoot infrared thermometer. I was also surprised at the head temp.

[tom s]

my question would be why the radiator is not dropping the temp from the in temp to the out temp?When I have checked them there is a very obvious change?Tom

[69*Goat]

Could the 12" x 12" trans cooler that is in front of the radiator have something to do with that?

[tom s]

No clue,it would concern me.Tom

[69*Goat]

I am going to go get my own infrared thermometer and recheck. I am also going to look at getting a 7 blade flex-lite fan and spacer and seeing what that will do.

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by tom s

my question would be why the radiator is not dropping the temp from the in temp to the out temp?When I have checked them there is a very obvious change?Tom

Good point. There would HAVE to be a drop in temp, even if only because the antifreeze is out of the engine for a while.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

I do not understand having 179°F in the heads and radiator but 200°F in the crossover....... I agree with Tom also, same temp on inlet and outlet of a radiator equates to zero cooling........Weirdness abounds!

[69*Goat]

Ok:

Purchased my own Infrared Thermometer. I went for a short 5 mile drive with some heavy accelration, and some stop light stops.

Got home, and got these readings. With temp gauge reading 195

1) Rad inlet 165

2) Rad outlet 130

3) Front of the heads 165

4) Crossover 165

[tom s]

That looks more like it.Tom

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

Ok:

Purchased my own Infrared Thermometer. I went for a short 5 mile drive with some heavy accelration, and some stop light stops.

Got home, and got these readings. With temp gauge reading 195

1) Rad inlet 165

2) Rad outlet 130

3) Front of the heads 165

4) Crossover 165

35°F difference is great cooling by the radiator and fan. Now you got something .....Drive the crap out of it !

[tom s]

maybe thermostat hung closed before?Tom

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

35°F difference is great cooling by the radiator and fan. Now you got something .....Drive the crap out of it !

I did!!!

Next up, Fuel system upgrade!!!

Before I tweaked this thing, I would get almost into third gear before she fell flat. Now, 1/2 way through send she's sucking the carb dry....

1/2 fuel line up grade, Robb Mc 1/2" sending unit... maybe even an electric pusher pump.

[AdamIsAdam]

ok, can I play too? Of course I can

I've been experiencing the same issues with temps as you all know, and I feel it's carb/timing related since I didn't have an issue last summer prior to my carb and timing changes. Even in the winter I was seeing over 200*.

Anyway, today during 90* heat and humidity, I went for a highway drive. Local driving generally sees the temps in the 180-200 range, but the highway sends the numbers upwards and they don't come down when I get off the highway.

With my laser pointer thermometer I got the following:

Gauge reading about 205* (and as much as 210 at times):

Intake crossover (which is where my electric gauge pickup is located): 209*
Upper Rad hose: 190*
Lower Rad hose: 160*

My thermostat is a brand new FlowKool high volume 160* unit. I took out a standard looking 160* unit. I tested both together and they both worked, although the old one was a bit less accurate and opened slower and closer to 170*.

My electric fan was running the entire time since it comes on around 175*.

Comments? Thoughts?


Fan pic. it's got decent coverage and I sealed up around the shroud-to-rad gaps.

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

ok, can I play too? Of course I can

I've been experiencing the same issues with temps as you all know, and I feel it's carb/timing related since I didn't have an issue last summer prior to my carb and timing changes. Even in the winter I was seeing over 200*.

Anyway, today during 90* heat and humidity, I went for a highway drive. Local driving generally sees the temps in the 180-200 range, but the highway sends the numbers upwards and they don't come down when I get off the highway.

With my laser pointer thermometer I got the following:

Gauge reading about 205* (and as much as 210 at times):

Intake crossover (which is where my electric gauge pickup is located): 209*
Upper Rad hose: 190*
Lower Rad hose: 160*

My thermostat is a brand new FlowKool high volume 160* unit. I took out a standard looking 160* unit. I tested both together and they both worked, although the old one was a bit less accurate and opened slower and closer to 170*.

My electric fan was running the entire time since it comes on around 175*.

Comments? Thoughts?


Fan pic. it's got decent coverage and I sealed up around the shroud-to-rad gaps.

The problem with electric fans is ,they cover up most of the radiator for flow to get thru at highway speeds, hence u needing the fan on all the time, My dual stratus fans are the same, have to have the fans on pretty much all the time, of course i do have 650 + and 4.10's lol..

[AdamIsAdam]

Understood. But keep in mind that this setup was working perfectly last summer, and for two years prior. Now it's running hot on the highway and then doesn't cool down around town much once temps rise past 180. Changes include change to new Qjet built by cliff (and it runs well otherwise) and tuning.

But that's another thread. I was mostly asking here about the cooling temps observed. Is 30° difference good, great or marginal?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by grandville455

The problem with electric fans is ,they cover up most of the radiator for flow to get thru at highway speeds, hence u needing the fan on all the time, My dual stratus fans are the same, have to have the fans on pretty much all the time, of course i do have 650 + and 4.10's lol..

First thing I thought looking at the pics of that set up! At highway speeds the natural flow of air is where the cooling comes from. Having all that area covered will cause increased temps without a doubt in MY mind.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Understood. But keep in mind that this setup was working perfectly last summer, and for two years prior. Now it's running hot on the highway and then doesn't cool down around town much once temps rise past 180. Changes include change to new Qjet built by cliff (and it runs well otherwise) and tuning.

But that's another thread. I was mostly asking here about the cooling temps observed. Is 30° difference good, great or marginal?

I don't have any engineering stats to back it up but in my opinion 30°F is pretty damn normal for cooling through the radiator.

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

First thing I thought looking at the pics of that set up! At highway speeds the natural flow of air is where the cooling comes from. Having all that area covered will cause increased temps without a doubt in MY mind.

Understood. But this setup ran much cooler last year, so I gotta figure things out. Good to know that the radiator is doing its thing.

[torqjunki]

Russell screwed some numbers up on some of his post. He is getting pretty old! On timing, we have it set at 10 initial, 22 centrifugal, for 32 total. I reset the the vac advance and ended up with 16 or 17 deg. It may very well run better with some additional initial timing and less centrifugal, but he has the battery in the trunk and IIRC , a stock starter. When hot, it is hard to start, so I did not want to make it worse with additional initial timing. We drove the car lugging up some hills and got no pinging. Just my opinion, I do not like rear mounted batteries for a street car. As for the temp readings we got with infrared, I don't remember exactly, but thermostat housing temp matched gauge. Heads were in high 170's at front. There was a significant difference in radiator inlet temp and outlet. The car is not running hot by no means, but should run closer to thermostat rating. He has an stock style 4 core so I suggested a 7 blade flex fan made for 4 core radiators. It works well on mine. Next time you come over Russell, we will take some notes! LOL