[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

These heads get converted from press-in studs to screw-in?

Curious about chirping noise. If it's pushrod rubbing guide plate.. It may be enough to keep the pushrod ball from seating good in the rocker cup. That would prevent oil from squirting out the oil hole in the rocker.

Clay

Yes sir, No.17 heads converted to screw in studs (ARP-100-7101) with helicoils. I say chirping because it’s a different tone than a lifter tick associated with a flattened cam lobe. It’s still ticking, just a bit higher pitched (if that makes any sense).

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Check for excess pushrod rub on the guide plates. Too much will chirp and keep oil from coming out the rocker hole.

Clay

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Check for excess pushrod rub on the guide plates. Too much will chirp and keep oil from coming out the rocker hole.

Clay

Wilco.

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by PontiacJim1959

Try backing off the rocker arm nut with the engine running so you can see if the oil begins to flow. Had this experience, and the pushrod was not spinning as it should. Backed off the nut (poly lock) and oil began to flow - problem solved.

Thanks for the tip Jim. I tired this last night, but it didn't get the flow back. I'm trying to find time this weekend to pull the intake manifold and see what I see.

[Stan Weiss]

Line up the timing marks for zero advance with the rotor not pointing to #1 cylinder (overlap). Using a straight edge tell us if the intake or exhaust lifter is higher and using feller gauges by how much.

Stan

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Line up the timing marks for zero advance with the rotor not pointing to #1 cylinder (overlap). Using a straight edge tell us if the intake or exhaust lifter is higher and using feller gauges by how much.

Stan

Will do.

[Dynoking]

Was the cam degreed during the build? Cam timing can be off considerably even with new timing components. If a degree wheel was not used there is no guarantee that the cam is installed as intended by the grind.

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by Dynoking

Was the cam degreed during the build? Cam timing can be off considerably even with new timing components. If a degree wheel was not used there is no guarantee that the cam is installed as intended by the grind.

Unfortunately, it was not degreed by the builder. He just installed it “dot to dot.”

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by FlyJS41

Unfortunately, it was not degreed by the builder. He just installed it “dot to dot.”

Cams have a built in advance of around 5 degrees.
But lets discuss the problem
Having Owned and built Pontiac 350's. and have 2 here now with 46 heads, I can tell you for a fact that a '73 #46 head has around 97 CC chamber, Not 81 cc as you mentioned "as cast". The 400 engine with a 46 head has as smallest a 89 cc chamber.
IF the 46 heads were milled as much as you say, your exhaust would hit the block and the intake would not fit unless it was severely angle milled to fit as well.
So, your Static CR is probably around 8.6 and your dynamic around 7.6. This is about right for that motor and year.
A set of 1970 # 11 heads would spruce that right up! ( 80 cc)
A 71 stock 350 2bbl had 250 HP, but it has 350 Torque ( way more than a chevy 350 2bbl)

[Sirrotica]

In the end 350 cubic inches, is 350 cubic inches, no matter who manufactured it in the beginning. It should do the same work as a 350 chevy, olds, or buick street engine does.

It's not a handicap that Pontiac made it in the beginning, even though some people would have you believe that. From what has come to light, I believe that the rebuild was compromised from the beginning. Get it all sorted out, and it should run as good as any other GM 350.

[Formulabruce]

In Fact, my point was that a Pontiac 350 is Better than a Chevy of the same era due mostly to Torque at low RPM

[Dynoking]

Originally Posted by FlyJS41

Unfortunately, it was not degreed by the builder. He just installed it “dot to dot.”

No good. Your lifter and compression issues must be resolved first. But your work isn’t complete until the cam is properly installed (degreed). The intake event must occur at the time the cam was manufactured for.
Another issue you have is your actual compression. The only way to know this is to CC your heads, Measure the installed piston height, actual deck height, and compressed head gasket thickness. Then do the math. Only after you have the actual compression ratio the proper cam can be selected.
All GM engines regardless of manufacture with an advertised CR of 8-8.5:1 are actually closer to 7-7:5:1 as assembled.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Line up the timing marks for zero advance with the rotor not pointing to #1 cylinder (overlap). Using a straight edge tell us if the intake or exhaust lifter is higher and using feller gauges by how much.

Stan

Not sure how good the data I have for the Summit 2800 is. I have it with a 114.25 LSA. In the graph the ICL is set at 114. As you can see the exhaust has more lift ATDC then the intake. AS you can see @ about 4.2 degrees ATDC they both have around the same lift. I believe it calls for a 109 ICL so the intake would have just a little more lift then the exhaust ATDC.

Stan

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Not sure how good the data I have for the Summit 2800 is. I have it with a 114.25 LSA. In the graph the ICL is set at 114. As you can see the exhaust has more lift ATDC then the intake. AS you can see @ about 4.2 degrees ATDC they both have around the same lift. I believe it calls for a 109 ICL so the intake would have just a little more lift then the exhaust ATDC.

Stan

As I understand it, the SUM2800 had a couple of different specs over the years. The attached is my version:

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

It's not a handicap that Pontiac made it in the beginning, even though some people would have you believe that. From what has come to light, I believe that the rebuild was compromised from the beginning. Get it all sorted out, and it should run as good as any other GM 350.

Agreed. If I can get to it this weekend, pulling the intake manifold should provide us with a couple of answers.

[FlyJS41]

FWIW, these are advertised as made in USA on the website. The reality, not so much...

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by FlyJS41

FWIW, these are advertised as made in USA on the website. The reality, not so much...

I suspect that the majority of lifters out there are made in "other" places. It cost me more but I sought out genuine Hy-Lift Jonsons (USA) through Paul K (great guy to deal with ) and can just see the quality over some I bought with a camshaft company brand.

I could not agree with more with your post!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...7&postcount=66

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...6&postcount=85

[p4msi1]

I just built and installed a P350 in my 84 C10 and love the power and mostly the torque, but like you I have a couple of lifters ticking even after resetting them 4 times. I will just run it as is till it breaks. With my tuned Q-jet it will roast the tires. The build is this: .040 bore, cast flattop pistons, Summit 2800 cam and lifters, 240 CFM 670 heads, 1.5 RR, exhaust manifolds with dual 2 1/4" pipes out the back, P4B edelbrock intake, 700r-4 trans with 2500 stall converter, 3.42 rear gears.

Steve

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by p4msi1

I just built and installed a P350 in my 84 C10 and love the power and mostly the torque, but like you I have a couple of lifters ticking even after resetting them 4 times. I will just run it as is till it breaks. With my tuned Q-jet it will roast the tires. The build is this: .040 bore, cast flattop pistons, Summit 2800 cam and lifters, 240 CFM 670 heads, 1.5 RR, exhaust manifolds with dual 2 1/4" pipes out the back, P4B edelbrock intake, 700r-4 trans with 2500 stall converter, 3.42 rear gears.

Steve

What is your CR and have you done a cranking compression test on your engine?

Stan

[FlyJS41]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Line up the timing marks for zero advance with the rotor not pointing to #1 cylinder (overlap). Using a straight edge tell us if the intake or exhaust lifter is higher and using feller gauges by how much.

Stan

Provided I'm taking the measurement correctly (a small machinist ruler over the top of the valves), there is no gap.