[PurelyGTO68]

So how much pre-activated clear did you consume? 1 gallon? 1 1/2 gallons? I usually end up going through a minimum of a gallon on a medium size car and maybe 1 1/3 gallons on a full size......that is before adding the catalyst and reducer.

I start with 600 grit when wet sanding my clear to remove the texture and I do it within the first 24 hours. I then wait about a week or two to let the solvents gas out and then finish wet sanding all the way to 2500 before machine polishing. I wonder how much material made it to the painted surface. Did you use an HVLP gun with traditional compressed air supply? If so, how much pressure did you have at the inlet to the gun?

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

So how much pre-activated clear did you consume? 1 gallon? 1 1/2 gallons? I usually end up going through a minimum of a gallon on a medium size car and maybe 1 1/3 gallons on a full size......that is before adding the catalyst and reducer.

I start with 600 grit when wet sanding my clear to remove the texture and I do it within the first 24 hours. I then wait about a week or two to let the solvents gas out and then finish wet sanding all the way to 2500 before machine polishing. I wonder how much material made it to the painted surface. Did you use an HVLP gun with traditional compressed air supply? If so, how much pressure did you have at the inlet to the gun?

1 1/3 gallon of clear before adding the solvents. Also inlet pressure was 30 psi for Bc and 28 psi for clear coat. 60 gallons compressor from matco. And a hvlp gun from Eastwood company.. had nice patterns on spray went on wet. Flash times were 10-15 minutes. CLear reads don’t let dry to tack off so kept touching masking tape to judge when it was ready after flashing times. Brought extra clear coat to make sure I had enough after reading that wet sanding removal of orange peel removes a lot of material.

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

1 1/3 gallon of clear before adding the solvents. Also inlet pressure was 30 psi for Bc and 28 psi for clear coat. 60 gallons compressor from matco. And a hvlp gun from Eastwood company.. had nice patterns on spray went on wet. Flash times were 10-15 minutes. CLear reads don’t let dry to tack off so kept touching masking tape to judge when it was ready after flashing times. Brought extra clear coat to make sure I had enough after reading that wet sanding removal of orange peel removes a lot of material.

All sounds good. That should have been plenty of clear for your car. I am stumped as to why you burned through so easily. ??

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

All sounds good. That should have been plenty of clear for your car. I am stumped as to why you burned through so easily. ??

I only burned through on the edges. I think I was pressing too hard also. Never knew you weren’t supposed to sand edges and style lines.. this bodywork and painting and wet sanding is a whole new monster to me. Everything I know is from talking and reading here from the members. I’m a guy that if I want to do something I read and talk to people about it. The members here are a great source information and help!!!

[Forrest]

Problem with sanding the edges is.....you will have to buff that out also, and believe me..that can/will burn thru worse than sanding thru..stay away from edges!! If your putting the clear on heavy enough the edges should not need to be "finished"( sanded/ buffed)...also if you are getting "new paint" it may not match your old paint ( always slight variation in the mixing).. I always get a gallon or more extra...it is worth the expense..I also mix up ALL the base with the reducer before I start..it is ready to go at all times so it will be consistent also...are you using a high solids clear?..It is all a learning curve.. but your doing great!

[gary bennett]

In buffing I set the buffer at 1500 RPMs. use it at an angle of 15 degrees , not flat. also keep it moving all the time. If I knew how to attach a picture of my work in my garage I would.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by Forrest

Problem with sanding the edges is.....you will have to buff that out also, and believe me..that can/will burn thru worse than sanding thru..stay away from edges!! If your putting the clear on heavy enough the edges should not need to be "finished"( sanded/ buffed)...also if you are getting "new paint" it may not match your old paint ( always slight variation in the mixing).. I always get a gallon or more extra...it is worth the expense..I also mix up ALL the base with the reducer before I start..it is ready to go at all times so it will be consistent also...are you using a high solids clear?..It is all a learning curve.. but your doing great!

Medium solid clear. Thanks

[cabhop]

Read the posts on this forum for wet-sanding/buffing...

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...-detailing.18/

Also,

if the resprayed panel doesn't match the rest of the car look into ghost pearling the whole car to hide the repair. That was my plan B if my "paint in pieces" didn't match on my goat.
(disclaimer-not sure if this will work but who knows).

https://www.paintwithpearl.com/

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Anywhere you cut through the clear (or deeper) when you sanded/buffed -
you really need to spot prime those areas or you will likely have ghost lines/trails of where you cut through. Even if not immediately - they will eventually.

In certain cases - you could even have "lifting" occur in those areas where you cut through - while applying new color . At that point it will be much worse than ghost lines.

Even in a good booth with proper prepped car - the majority of trash when painting a car in any closed environment comes off the painters garments , the air hose , the painters movements / shuffling around the floor , and whipping dragging air hose around while spraying.

Your bare wood floor is a nightmare but it is what it is.
Black roofing felt in 3 foot roll is a good floor covering in your situation.
Even underneath the car.
When you spray lower portions you are raising up any dust on the floor and underneath car.

All your open areas are trash nightmares.
The window openings all need to be masked and papered shut.
The wheelhousings need to be taped out masked shut with long pieces of 36" paper
around the circumference and kept outward over the tire. Closing off wheelhouse and wheel completely.
Would also mask and hang 36" paper from bottom of rockers to the floor as a blockade.

The more you control all these open areas - the cleaner your paint will be.

Consider buying an inexpensive paint suit or make sure what you wear isnt loose knit - like not a sweatshirt or sweatpants. Blow yourself off well before spraying - but not inside the booth.

Dont drop the user end of the hose on the floor after disconnecting gun.
Keep the last 3-5 feet of the hose surgically clean and hung up when not in use.

If you have hairy arms - wear long sleeves.

If you use wooden paint paddles - strain your materials.
Best to use plastic paddle or aluminum paddle when mixing.

[MUSLCAH]

Hey.....get that Cat all painted up yet !

[Jeffs64Cat]

Getting ready to repaint it on Tuesday. Got the walls covered with plastic. Covering the floor with plastic taping off the inside of the car and taping the bottom of the car to the floor.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Getting ready to repaint it on Tuesday. Got the walls covered with plastic. Covering the floor with plastic taping off the inside of the car and taping the bottom of the car to the floor.

[Jeffs64Cat]

All painted and clear coated. Had a few problems with stink bugs walking in clear but can wet sand that out. Used the high solid clear this time and the look is amazing. Sprayed five wet coats of that so I’ll have enough material to wet sand and cut and buff it all out.

Special thanks to all that gave me input to get it done over.

This time I was less nervous also

[MUSLCAH]

Nice....just plan on 80 hours to cut and buff the land Ark.....

[dataway]

Pictures or it didn't happen

[Forrest]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

All painted and clear coated. Had a few problems with stink bugs walking in clear but can wet sand that out. Used the high solid clear this time and the look is amazing. Sprayed five wet coats of that so I’ll have enough material to wet sand and cut and buff it all out.

Special thanks to all that gave me input to get it done over.

This time I was less nervous also

So.. you have alot of those "stinkbugs too?? Man they are everywhere here in Ga. alot last year also.. before that hardly saw one ever.. wonder what happened to increase the population so fast??.. They are in everything here.. a real infestation! Funny thing is some of them have the real stink..some have none..must be a male female thing! If you get some of that "bug juice" on your hands..good luck getting the smell to go away!...

[critter]

I'd say five coats of clear on top of what you already had should be good . Wow. Be careful around those edges however. Like someone else said, I taped mine and worked up to the tape. That product gets thin on edges and it only takes one slip. Good luck!

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Congrats to you Jeff.
Sounds like you probably got better results this time and I hope the extra prep seemed to be worthwhile.

When did you spray it ?
How bad was the trash factor this time ?

5 coats does sound excessive, but we probably don't spray the same way and 3 of mine might be like 5 of yours. The only concern at all about that would be solvent popping during the overnight dry time.

If you made it past that point without any solvent pop , and the clear is starting to set up and get firmer , you have it licked.

[Forrest]

Like I said before.. usually the high areas/edges don't even need sanding or polishing..if you put on 5 wet coats of clear it should flow out fine and hopefully "should not" have to worry about sanding those areas... It takes guts to do your first paint job..You should be fine and proud now...great job!

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

Congrats to you Jeff.
Sounds like you probably got better results this time and I hope the extra prep seemed to be worthwhile.

When did you spray it ?
How bad was the trash factor this time ?

5 coats does sound excessive, but we probably don't spray the same way and 3 of mine might be like 5 of yours. The only concern at all about that would be solvent popping during the overnight dry time.

If you made it past that point without any solvent pop , and the clear is starting to set up and get firmer , you have it licked.

Baron.....you forgot to mention ...let the exhaust fan run an hour or 2 after last coat of clear....and then add an oscillating fan overnight to keep the solvents moving. Hey...can’t think of everything right....sometimes you have to mess up ,to get bettah !