[67Dan]

I checked on anodizing and it can only be done on aluminum, so that is out! Powder coating was next and the guy didn't feel comfortable in the environment it would be running in and suggested marine paint.

What amazes me is I have now 9 plates, and there is so much varience in them! About 4 different changes and the original is the only one that comes close with the pump Cordone sent me. Amazing!

[Pontirag]

I would nor beat on the plate. especially if its stainless.

I got a question? Most pictures I see, people have banged around on the tapered opening of the plate? You need uniform spacing across the face of the impeller, between the impeller and the plate.

would it not be easier to simply adjust the impellers location on its shaft to adjust for a desired clearance between the impellor and the plate.

To do that you put the plate up to the pump, measure the distance between the impellor and the plate. That number represents the distance the impellor should be carefully pressed off its shaft. When the pump and plate are correctly installed the thickness of the two gaskets will create sufficient clearance between the pump impellor and the plate.

If you are really carefull you can take into account those two gaskets thickness when pressing your pump and tighten up the tollerance even further.

If you worry about plate/impellor comming into contact then send out the plate and pump to have the possible contact/ wear surfaces coated witha dry film lubricant.

A hint if you intend to persue this route. plan ahead. experiment with used pumps. watch how you support the pump to press the impellor. if you push on the bearing ...even a little bit and it will die a quick death. Measure three times and press once. Press once and no more cause if you start pushing it around on the shaft the impellor might come loose. If that happens, parts are available to rebuild the pump. But as you see, it begins to cost money.

[GT182]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

I would nor beat on the plate. especially if its stainless.

I got a question? Most pictures I see, people have banged around on the tapered opening of the plate? You need uniform spacing across the face of the impeller, between the impeller and the plate.

would it not be easier to simply adjust the impellers location on its shaft to adjust for a desired clearance between the impellor and the plate.

To do that you put the plate up to the pump, measure the distance between the impellor and the plate. That number represents the distance the impellor should be carefully pressed off its shaft. When the pump and plate are correctly installed the thickness of the two gaskets will create sufficient clearance between the pump impellor and the plate.

If you are really carefull you can take into account those two gaskets thickness when pressing your pump and tighten up the tollerance even further.

No it's not a good idea to bang on the SS rear plate. But seeing that's the only way up to now, many have done it including me. There's no way to get a smoothe surface unless you might just happen a die to totally change the plate to the proper curvature. The SS rear plate that's out now in no way has the proper curvature and a couple of us think it would be imposible to get it right. You'd need a 40 or 50 ton press and you still might screw the plate up even with a proper die that conforms to the original rear plate. If you have one of each you'd see what I mean. Photos do not do justice to what I'm talking about.... you need to see it first hand.

The front SS plate is ok to use. No changes to it are needed. As of now I'm using my old original reap plate with it and am having no issues at all.... so far. As for using 2 water pump gaskets I'm not sure that would work. It might give you a minimal amount of clearance for the impeller but your're taking a chance on them leaking. Sounds crazy but it is a possibility you'll ruin 2 gaskets.

Moving the impeller is taking a big chance on completely ruining the pump... bearings and the ceramic seal being the key words.

Im in contact with Steve Ames and and Tim Stewart, they're looking into changing the SS rear plate to match the originals. Hopefully this will be done. We're going to keep at this until wer get the proper rear SS repo rear divider plate... come hell or high water. Pontiac used only the correct style impeller and diver plates way back then for the 8 bolt pumps. We should at least have the same today. They didn't beat on anything and neither should we.

For the time being I'd suggest you find a good original rear divider plate for the new 8 bolt pump Cardone is coming out with. I can assure you this pump will move water as it's supposed to, as I have one right now that I'm testing. So far it's keeping the coolant temp at 180 to 185. Hot weather will tell if it's really doing the job it's supposed to. But also note, I'm running a shroud (no A/C), fan clutch and a replacement 6 blade fan. My original harrison 3 core radiator was recored last year and now has as many or more tubes in it than a 4 core radiator.... 168 tubes to be exact and way more fins. Plus a new temp gauge that works as it should..... My infrared temp sensor is telling me that much.

[Pontirag]

you are saying the SS divider plate has the wrong angle to mate with the impeller? Is there a standard? What should the angle be.

one of the keys to pressing sheet metal alloys is annealing the metal between certain steps

[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

X2. Run a quality antifreeze and never let the mix drop below 50/50, and change it at least every other year and the plate should last indefinitely.

X3! That being said, new water pumps should come with the plate (or plates) already with the proper clearance, like the Edelbrock pumps. Would be just a little more expensive, but how expensive can running an engine hot all the time get to be? Imagine how ineffective the SBC And BBC pumps would be if the left the rear cover plate off? Kidding around a little here, but you get the point.

[67Dan]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

I would nor beat on the plate. especially if its stainless.

I got a question? Most pictures I see, people have banged around on the tapered opening of the plate? You need uniform spacing across the face of the impeller, between the impeller and the plate.

would it not be easier to simply adjust the impellers location on its shaft to adjust for a desired clearance between the impellor and the plate.

To do that you put the plate up to the pump, measure the distance between the impellor and the plate. That number represents the distance the impellor should be carefully pressed off its shaft. When the pump and plate are correctly installed the thickness of the two gaskets will create sufficient clearance between the pump impellor and the plate.

If you are really carefull you can take into account those two gaskets thickness when pressing your pump and tighten up the tollerance even further.

If you worry about plate/impellor comming into contact then send out the plate and pump to have the possible contact/ wear surfaces coated witha dry film lubricant.

A hint if you intend to persue this route. plan ahead. experiment with used pumps. watch how you support the pump to press the impellor. if you push on the bearing ...even a little bit and it will die a quick death. Measure three times and press once. Press once and no more cause if you start pushing it around on the shaft the impellor might come loose. If that happens, parts are available to rebuild the pump. But as you see, it begins to cost money.

There are two parts to the puzzle. The curvature of the impeller and the distance of the impeller to the plate. I will have to move my impeller in slightly and you have to be VERY careful not to ruin the ceramic seal.

At present I have about 9 plates and to my surprise there is a variation in design which surprises me. I found two plates that are excellent in curvature to my impeller, but I still have to move my impeller in to accommodate either plate.

I also have a stainless plate from Ames and it has problems as well. Charles and Gary have contacted them and we are in hopes that they will redesign the plate for others in the future.

[Pontirag]

I wonder what the correct specs are on a factory impeller. I know alot of aftermarket rebuilders installed new impellers of a generic design, kinda one size fits all. I wonder what the aftermarket NORS spec is. Seems a shame to not manufacture a factory spec

[GT182]

Originally Posted by Pontirag

you are saying the SS divider plate has the wrong angle to mate with the impeller? Is there a standard? What should the angle be.

one of the keys to pressing sheet metal alloys is annealing the metal between certain steps

Yes to your question on the repo SS 8 bolt rear divider plate. You'd have to seen one of the plates nest to the reproduction to see the difference.... and there's no way the 2 are even close.

The old 8 bolt rear divider plates have the correct curvature. The impeller for pump Cardone will be making will be matched to the old divider plate's curvature. These will be as close as possible to what Pontiac used back in the 60s.

It's been said some of the old rear plates had no keyway, and I've yet to see one. The SS rerproduction is in no way close to being as the old ones are, and are not correct IMHO. Someone somewhere has to step up and make the correct plate.

I tossed my rear SS plate that I had beat on and won't work, and sent the replacement for it back to where it came from. I will only use the correct plate... whether it be an old original that's useable, or a correct reproduction..... that's not manufactured yet.

I've tried to find out what the correct specs are and any other info and photos of these pumps and plates. Nothing has been found yet. I've even contacted someone I know at GM and they think it might be darned near impossible to find or see anything from back then.

[Pontirag]

oh...what about the 11 hole pump plates?

[GT182]

As far as I've heard the 11 bolt plate is ok. SS but are the same as the originals. Someone that has one can tell you for sure how good they are, I'm only going by what I've heard.

[vidguy]

I put a Stainless Steel plate in my 75 Formula. My 67 GTO still has reproduction steel plates in it. The Stainless plate in my Formula I ended up clearancing with a bocce ball kinda of hard plastic ball and a 5" inch or so piece of PVC pipe. I dont recall the exact dimensions. I tried a few pieces of PVC pipe scraps..I put the piece of pipe under it, the ball on top and used my press on the ball. It bent it perfectly uniformly..
That and a new Champion Aluminum radiator and a 160 Thermostat and my rebuilt 455 runs at 170 no matter what.

[GT182]

James, you're the first I believe to a have the need to clearance the 11 bolt SS divider plate. Is you're pump the original or a rebuilt?