#21  
Old 06-05-2020, 04:31 PM
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I'll check my stash of 68 GTO air cleaners to see if I spot any difference (I can more easily do this when it's not -0 in the garage).

Question: I know that this has been discussed, but do we have a definitive answer on whether the breather tubes originally black phosphate or silver? I have pictures of some very original cars that appear to show originally black phosphate but faded. I check those in my attic also.

Attached are a couple of different shots of air cleaner assemblies I have for my herd.
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Old 06-05-2020, 05:31 PM
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All mine are some form of black coating, often faded to grayish.

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  #23  
Old 06-05-2020, 06:59 PM
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Couple more pics .... I'm thinking the problem is with the pipe. I'll take some photos of that tonight with rulers or something next to it.

I don't have the grommet in upside down do I ?



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  #24  
Old 06-05-2020, 07:19 PM
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Looks to be an Oldsmobile unit. Was there any clips welded to the bottom? And again, lie it against a flat surface and measure from the center ring of the carb. flange down. That's where the difference will be.

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Old 06-05-2020, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68gtoMN View Post
I'll check my stash of 68 GTO air cleaners to see if I spot any difference (I can more easily do this when it's not -0 in the garage).

Question: I know that this has been discussed, but do we have a definitive answer on whether the breather tubes originally black phosphate or silver? I have pictures of some very original cars that appear to show originally black phosphate but faded. I check those in my attic also.

Attached are a couple of different shots of air cleaner assemblies I have for my herd.
Now I know why my 68 came without an air cleaner when I bought it.
Not enough of them in circulation.

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Old 06-05-2020, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Held for Ransom View Post
Looks to be an Oldsmobile unit. Was there any clips welded to the bottom? And again, lie it against a flat surface and measure from the center ring of the carb. flange down. That's where the difference will be.
Are you saying a straight edge across where the lid rests, or across the bottom & measure to the mounting edge that touches the carb gasket? Just curious as I was going to measure mine as well.

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Old 06-05-2020, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68ragtop View Post
Are you saying a straight edge across where the lid rests, or across the bottom & measure to the mounting edge that touches the carb gasket? Just curious as I was going to measure mine as well.

Hopefully these pictures of a '70 GTO air cleaner help.
First is from the backside. Second/Third is from the topside.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:36 PM
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Will do that now .... be right back.


I get 0.716" from surface of the table, to the bottom of the carb flange.

Also checked it using the straight edge across the bottom to the bottom of the flange ... 0.716

So ... close to 1/4" more drop than the 70 GTO base you have shown.

No clips were welded on the bottom from what I can see.


Last edited by dataway; 06-05-2020 at 09:46 PM.
  #29  
Old 06-05-2020, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68ragtop View Post
Now I know why my 68 came without an air cleaner when I bought it.
Not enough of them in circulation.
From what I have seen about 95% of the "GTO" air cleaners on ebay are not GTO air cleaners, they are run of the mill 4 bbl units from B bodies, snorkels are all wrong.

  #30  
Old 06-05-2020, 10:26 PM
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Double checked on how an Olds air cleaner looks, and it's not that. So I threw the '70 air cleaner (it's a California unit so the hole is already there) on my '74 engine and the distance from the valve cover to the center of the breather is 4-1/4". Still no clue on the stamping of your air cleaner base.

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Old 06-05-2020, 11:58 PM
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I was wondering if F bodies used a different base since a lot of their ancillary engine compartment stuff is different.

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Old 06-08-2020, 04:29 AM
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I think I found what might be the issue ... first of all I have honking big valve cover gaskets ..... at LEAST 1/4" thick ( .310" I think), that combined with what I think is a carb gasket thinner than the originals (looks less than 1/8"), and another 1/16" from no air cleaner base gasket.

So between the valve cover being close to 1/4" too high, and the cleaner base being close to 1/4" too low ... might be my problem ... at the very least it's not helping at all.

Since I plan on keeping the very good sealing valve cover gaskets, I'll get a thicker carb gasket and add an air cleaner base gasket and see where that leaves me ... should be able to tweak the tube a bit if I have too.

  #33  
Old 06-08-2020, 06:00 AM
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what was the original type carb base gasket? Mine is very thin also. It was something I bought many years ago when stocking up parts, so I have no idea what was supposed to be in there. Is it the 1/4 black type used for so many later years of the quadrajet?

I found this felpro image on Rockauto, but looks thin like what I have now. Kinda hard to tell.

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  #34  
Old 06-08-2020, 11:41 AM
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My base gaskets are all 1/8"...and all of the q-jet kits I've bought in the last 10 yrs were Cliff's. Not sure if that is the stock size but I would guess that it is.
I'm running a '74 carb by the way. I have a 1/4" base gasket around here somewhere. I'm pretty sure it was under the Holley spreadbore that was on my car when I got it. It had hard phenolic, plastic (?) inserts in the mounting holes to control crush.

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Old 06-08-2020, 01:22 PM
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I'm a bit torn on what to do .... I'm pretty sure the 1/8' ish carb gaskets are the original thickness for a 68 carb, right now I've got one like pictured in ragtop's post.

Valve cover gasket is probably my problem ... It's tall enough I can see 1/8" of it below the valve cover overhang ... with stock cork that valve cover overhang is usually lower than the top of the head.

But like most people I have valve cover leak problems despite much work to reshape the valve cover bolt holes nice an flat.

I thinking bending the pipe is going to be my easiest solution ... or trying a different pipe. I saw on ebay a guy that posted a pic showing three different pipes ... all slightly different in design. I need to look up the part numbers and see what's up there.

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Old 06-08-2020, 11:55 PM
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I don't and have never had any issues with regular cork vc gaskets. I don't even use any permatex on them. I am using repop valve covers by the way.

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Old 06-09-2020, 12:56 AM
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I've got the original covers. Far as I can tell I've got the flange flattened out pretty nice so they should seal, but couldn't get it done with the cork .... could be I'm afraid to tighten them enough because I don't want to bend the holes again. Now that the engine is all buttoned up and tested ... I could try cork with some washers under the bolts to spread the load a bit .... come to think of it I'll have to check and see if I'm using the proper flanged OEM style bolts.

I once did up drawings for a "load spreader" that was about 1/2" thick and went the entire length of the lower valve cover from bolt to bolt

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Old 06-09-2020, 02:52 PM
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Do any of you guys have the original wavy washers still on your cars - the ones that went UNDER the valve cover bolts from the factory to create tension? I bet most of you don't know about those.

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Old 06-09-2020, 02:56 PM
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I've seen some over the years. I believe they were only used on chrome valve-covers though.

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  #40  
Old 06-09-2020, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by north View Post
I've seen some over the years. I believe they were only used on chrome valve-covers though.
Correct! Most of these were lost upon initial removal of VC bolts. I have two engines (one in original car and one removed) that still have them. Just a point of information that I bet most were unaware of. :-)

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