[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks Alvin. I've got a Pontiac Service Manual coming and MPD is getting a 1978 National Service Data manual. Hopefully those will come soon.

I had asked in an earlier post if this car should have had an idle stop solenoid, but haven't gotten a response yet. Does anyone know? I know I am missing carb choke shield.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Thanks Alvin. I've got a Pontiac Service Manual coming and MPD is getting a 1978 National Service Data manual. Hopefully those will come soon.

I had asked in an earlier post if this car should have had an idle stop solenoid, but haven't gotten a response yet. Does anyone know? I know I am missing carb choke shield.

IIRC - It should have an idle stop solenoid on the driver side for the proper "A/C on" idle speed.

[Alvin]

Looks simular to this one, note the mounting bracket with 2 attachment screw bolts.

[Alvin]

"There should be a green wire going to it from the AC harness."

Check w our hosts PY to see of they sell them. If not http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sm...FUGk4AodoUQAtw

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I'm replacing the heater hoses on the Gold Car as they are at least 15 years old, hard, and incorrect. To get at the lower heater hose do you have to completely remove all the bolts for the inner fender or can you just remove a few select bolts and loosen the others and get enough play in the inner fender to accomplish the task?

Has the heater core been replaced?

Because if it hasn't.....it's overdue.

If you are unbolting the inner fener to get at hose connections...you are halfways there already...

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

Has the heater core been replaced?

Because if it hasn't.....it's overdue.

If you are unbolting the inner fener to get at hose connections...you are halfways there already...

Boy, I have been here too many times, my 77, 78 and 79 all had AC and all ended up needing a core. Back then I put the subframe up on jack stands, PS tire and wheel off to get started, got a cushion for the long seat time,trouble ligts, air ratchet, empty butter dish for bolts, got that nut off the firewall, and some help inside when the time was right.
On that solenoid, The wire should be there somewhere, my 79 was a 4 speed and had the solenoid. Is the AC working in this car?

[Bentwheelbob]

Man, I was afraid someone would bring up the heater core. I don't need any help in the mission creep area. I mean I had possession of the car for half a day, did 3 or 4 burn outs, and promptly rendered it undriveable. Every time I get a car my wife says "I thought this car was in great shape and didn't need any work". Sound familiar?

On the idle stop, the A/C works - or it did for about 12 hours. Hah... I've looked under the hood and cannot see any loose, random wires. I've got unattached vacuum hoses everywhere, but no wires. Hopefully my manuals will come soon. If anyone has a picture of an idle stop and the wiring let me know please.

[2manyT/A'S]

The last time I went shopping for a heater core..... a few years back....I was not happy with what was available.

Most suppliers are selling one that looks like it belongs in your computer...not under your dash....

I WAS able to source a "normal" looking one through Rock Auto...Readi-Air was the brand....as I recall.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Man, I was afraid someone would bring up the heater core. I don't need any help in the mission creep area. I mean I had possession of the car for half a day, did 3 or 4 burn outs, and promptly rendered it undriveable. Every time I get a car my wife says "I thought this car was in great shape and didn't need any work". Sound familiar?

On the idle stop, the A/C works - or it did for about 12 hours. Hah... I've looked under the hood and cannot see any loose, random wires. I've got unattached vacuum hoses everywhere, but no wires. Hopefully my manuals will come soon. If anyone has a picture of an idle stop and the wiring let me know please.

I had to replace the one on my 79, 43,000 mile Formula, plan on replacing yours.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

The last time I went shopping for a heater core..... a few years back....I was not happy with what was available.

Most suppliers are selling one that looks like it belongs in your computer...not under your dash....

I WAS able to source a "normal" looking one through Rock Auto...Readi-Air was the brand....as I recall.

Yup, NJ Steve just did his recently and , as I have found too, the replacements are Aluminum. I have a couple old copper ones, may be worth a trip to a radiator place for re-soldering of the pipes and check for that solder pin hole situation Steve described.
Chris, was yours aluminum too?

[Bentwheelbob]

Yep, the three "B's" ( Brian, Bruce and the Boss) are getting a kick out of this heater core deal. Now if Bill would just chime in it would be perfect. Seems sort of like a right of passage I guess. You can't belong to the FBody Club until you change the heater core. Well, I ordered one this morning from Rock Auto and it should be here in a few days. So far today I have delayed taking any real action toward getting things disassembled. We'll see how long I can stall...

I have gotten the front sway bar bead blasted and it's now in primer. Thank goodness it fit in my cabinet and I didn't have to break out the Texas Blaster. I also continue to prop up the economy buying parts for the Gold Car. One thing that caught my attention today was the air cleaner decal. The one on the car is obviously original and it is PJ 8997017. It's interesting though that everyone lists that decal for a 1979 TA??? Maybe because this car is a June build...

Here's a couple pictures.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Alvin

From my MOTOR AUTO REPAIR MANUAL 1978:

Under Heater Core Removal section

1973-78 Firebird...

4. Jack right front area of car and place on safety stand.
5. Remove rocker panel trim on right side and remove screws holding forward of panel trim to attaching bracket.
6. Remove three lower fender bolts at rear of fender.
7. Remove four fender to skirt bolts at rear of wheel opening.
8. Remove two fender skirt bolts near blower motor area.
9. Pry rear portion of fender out at bottom to gain access to hose clamp on lower core hose and disconnect hose.
----------

My note & tip below...

Note: Be careful removing the Baked on heater hose from the htr core. It is easy to bend and/or fatigue the pipe to core solder area being overly aggressive with the removal process.

Tip: If you ever need to replace the heater core in the future you will need to remove the nut (engine compartment side) from the blower motor case hidden stud the is near the lower heater core case hose. You will have all others removed and or loose and not be able to remove the case W/O removal of this hidden stud nut.

Well the directions from Alvin's Motor Auto Repair Manual were pretty much dead nuts on. The only variations were that there are only two lower fender bolts and only three fender to skirt bolts in the rear fender opening. The hose is off and the nut has been removed from the stud. Now to disassemble the interior....

[Alvin]

Personally, I'd have the one in your car rebuilt & re-soldered and consider reinstalling it if it is an original style. Obvious by the screw clamp that hoses & clamps have been "touched" BF.

[Alvin]

When you're removing interior parts to access heater control distribution box, be gentle with the center A/C distribution duct (under the glove box) and attaching points.

Usually molded plastic brittle w age and easily damaged at mounting points and duct attachments...

Have fun w that passenger side footwell kick panel and vacuum pod, like we all have before!

[2manyT/A'S]

As Alvin states....looks like the core may have already been done........hose looks new.

The stainless gear clamp is the correct style....The OE ones had a smaller head (5/16) than the ones from the parts store........ OE ones are marked Silverman on the body....

[Bentwheelbob]

It's out. I hope it goes back in more easily.

It wasn't the original heater core and it looks to be in reasonably good shape, but it wasn't installed this year either when all the other work was done. There was too much much dirt, dust and fibers on everything including the heater core for it to have been done in the recent past. In addition, although the hose looked good in the picture, it was like hard plastic around the heater core nipple and was very hard to get off.

The gear clamp has a 1/4" drive and is labeled Murray Silver Seal, Townson, MD.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

It's out. I hope it goes back in more easily.

It wasn't the original heater core and it looks to be in reasonably good shape, but it wasn't installed this year either when all the other work was done. There was too much much dirt, dust and fibers on everything including the heater core for it to have been done in the recent past. In addition, although the hose looked good in the picture, it was like hard plastic around the heater core nipple and was very hard to get off.

The gear clamp has a 1/4" drive and is labeled Murray Silver Seal, Townson, MD.

Now you can sleep better tonite knowing that it won't be spewing green fluid on your nice Camel Tan carpet.....

My memory was a bit rusty on the hose clamp specs....but yours are definatey OE.....

Same ones came on the water pump and cylinder head ends....

Rad hoses still used tower clamps,as I recall.

It helps to have a 2nd party guiding the heater core pipes through the holes in the cowl....while you wrestle with it under the dash

[Formulabruce]

BentwheelBob Quote>>" One thing that caught my attention today was the air cleaner decal. The one on the car is obviously original and it is PJ 8997017. It's interesting though that everyone lists that decal for a 1979 TA??? Maybe because this car is a June build..."< END Quote.
I noticed this in '79 when I was working at the dealership as we had a 78 and 79 in the shop at same time and Lunch for me was Learn time.. I later found out after finally owning a couple that the ACSparkplug sub assembly ( air cleaner with stickers) was identical because the Engines were identical. ALL of the '79 400 engines ( 4 speed only) were built in '78, and had to to pass the emissions rules, which went by Calendar year, ( unless of course you "cheat" as did Pontiac in 73). Im Not an expert and you may find the automatic decals are the ones "repopped"
The Hand crank jack on the lift, Do the arms expand to the width you desire? I have normally just used my air jack on one side at a time and although my lift looks identical to yours, I havent seen this before. Thoughts?

[Bentwheelbob]

Brian - I hear you that four hands are better than two. Unfortunately My Pal Dave was AWOL today and I had no supporting cast. It's interesting that the hose clamp was OE. A lot of stuff under the dash was original as well including the foam gasket on the passenger side HVAC duct. However, you could tell it had been apart in the past as the same duct had the busted mounting points where it is secured to the dash and a repair had been attempted.

Bruce - Thanks for the history on the air cleaner. The bridge jacks work great. The arms on each side are adjustable on the horizontal plane to allow you to adjust to the exact lift location you want. It's nice being able to lift your car off of the lift. The only issue arises when you are substantially off center on the lift. In that circumstance you may not be able to slide the arm inward enough to get the correct lift point.

[Formulabruce]

Thanks for the Pic, Ill see if "Tech Lifts" down in Fall River, MA has them.. Bruce