[lfdsteve]

So I have the engine and ECU working in my 71 bird. All seemed to be good after a long trying period of splicing in new wires with old. Other that trimming out a few unused parts of engine harness such as kickdown, power window feed, and such, the only other change was to wire in a key on for the ecu,straight hot for ecu, both of which came into cabin ,one hooked to BATT terminal on fuse block, the other to ACC. all worked as planned.
My problem is now I have added the Headlight harness and switch. When I turn on the head lights, the power feed to the coil and the powwer to the ACC section come on. great if you dont want to use a key, but not very practical.
I know its a long shot, and I have been thinking about grounds but anyone have a though as to where the headlight switch might be crossing over into the ignition/acc circut? I have the schematic but nothing is jumping out.
Thanks
Steve
If it make a diff it comes on in both the headlight, and the parking light position and I have removed the hi beam swithch

[lfdsteve]

I guess I should ask. Is tthe acc blade in the fuse box supposed to come on hot when the headlights are turned on or only when the key is on?
Thanx

[lfdsteve]

More data. testing with switch removed. At the switch connector I have a red wire that is hot, and a brown wire with a white stripe that is Hot. If I touch either of these to the plain brown wire, the ecu and fuel pumps come on (IE ACC is now hot).
Thoughts?

[lfdsteve]

If I apply hot to brown wire in trunk (tail light) it comes on, if I disconect Main body harness at fuse block I cannot get it to come on when I apply hot to brown wire in trunk or strangley enough apply hot to brown at headlight switch either. This would lead me to believe I have a short between trunk and fuse panel but I dont. I think only thing in between would be ignition so now I'm lost again. :/

[george kujanski]

Don't know exactly on a '71, but IMO there should be no connection between the headlights circuit and the ACC or IGN circuits.

The headlights switch is always powered (obviously for hazard situations without using the key).

I'd say you somehow connected the circuits together.....also instead of using the ACC terminal for your ECM switched power use the IGN circuit instead.

You also mention a brown wire quite a bit, keep in mind that colors may be used in separate circuits that are not connected together....an ACC brown wire probably has nothing to do with a brown wire in the trunk, etc.

George

[lfdsteve]

Thanks George, As a final diagnostic I started the car then turned on the head lights. When I turn off the key, the engine continues to run so some how I have bridged the circuit between the head light power, and the ignition power. I grabbed the acc because I needed a hot while cranking source, without the lights on this circuit was only hot in crank and run. Confirming I believe that I have crossed a wire somehow while splicing into the under hood harness, the only question is which...rats! The browwn wire I refered to is one I traced from back to front so I know its the same but I loose it when it hits the fuse block. there has to be some connection between this and my problem as it it the wire that takes power to the front and rear lights. Its just how i did it that has me scratchin

Thanks again
Steve

[rexs73gto]

When you unplug the fuse block on the outside part of the wires , find the brown wire that your having problems with & see which terminal it goes to on the side part of the block. Follow that up & I bet you will find out where your feed to the coil is that keeps it running. Once you find out where it goes I think you will find that you may have tpped into the wrong side of the fuse block. Then you will be on the hot on always side which is backwards of what you want. You may have spliced into the constant hot side of the fuse block which is why your having these problems. Check that & see first before you end up frying your newly rewired harness & burning your car to the ground.

[lfdsteve]

I looked at the schematic, there are solid lines that it says are for "standard car" then hashed lines that say "Except standard car". This is an auto that I converted to a manual. I assume that the above means that If It is (or was) a stick, that the hashed lines should not be included or in use?
That being the case I see that there is one place where the headlight switch AND the ignition come togther. This is a red wire and it is indicated in Hash marked lines that intersects a solid line that then runs over to the ignition. I am assuming that since it is a hashed line it would only be there IF the car wasnt originally a standard car.
I am wondering if this is the source of my feedback as I have run the wires outside the car and they seem ok and I have yet to alter the inside of the harness.
If there is someone with a schematic, and understands them could take a look and letme know what ya think it would be awsome. The wire I am talking about comes out of the middle of the light switch connector. two wires run out of same terminal, one is solid that runs to the junction then over to the ignition, the other just runs to the fuse terminal.

Thanks
Steve

[gtofreek]

That red wire should be just a power supply wire to both switch's. Should not be causing your problem. It sounds to me like you got your brown tail light wire somehow connected into your brown ACC. circuit. Find this connection and separate it and you should be good.

[lfdsteve]

Hmmm Brown and Brown, sounds like a good place to look. Thanx

[lfdsteve]

This is driving me nuts. Even with both harneses disconnected at the bulk head, the problem persists.
Bottom line is what would cause the accesory blade in the fuse box to go hot when I turn on the headlights, even with both front harnesses unplugged and the long plug on the right of the fuse box disconnected as well? The only change to interior wire is I moved the pigtails for neutral lock out to clutch safety switch.
Arrgh!

Thanx