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Old 02-11-2024, 11:42 AM
joes455 joes455 is offline
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Default C clip eliminator

Thinking of going to this set up,but alot of reviews claim this design leaks .Any real time users say different?

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Old 02-11-2024, 12:33 PM
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I have a Moser set on 33 spline axles.I check the bolts every now and then. No leaks yet, been on there about 15 yrs. I have heard the same thing about leaks, but so far so good.

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Old 02-11-2024, 12:46 PM
chiefbigb chiefbigb is offline
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I have installed many sets. If you seal everything up good they will be leak free for years.

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Old 02-11-2024, 12:57 PM
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I have a 12 bolt rear with C-clip eliminators and mine didn't leak at first but after a while they started leaking. It makes a real mess to your brakes, shoes, drums runs down your tires etc. I pulled it apart put in new orings and again it was OK for a while but started leaking again. Then out of desperation I used an oring that had the next larger size cross section. Cleaned off the oil real good, I liberally lubed the oring with red hi temp silicone, it fit very tight but I crammed it together and 20 years later still no leaks.

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Old 02-11-2024, 02:27 PM
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Not related, but my Strange Dana60 leaked out the DS axle seal. Tech call didn't help. Call to ask what replacement part was needed didn't help.

What did help was to properly seat the parts i had. Well, the leaking stopped. Was worth cleaning up the multi-year mess. Rear Disc cobblings can do that to a non-C-clip assembly,

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Old 02-11-2024, 03:08 PM
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I have had a Strange C-clip eliminator kit now for 30 + years. It leaks over time; 10 years or so. Gaskets and/or sealant seems to get undercut from the diff gear oil and starts to dribble. Maintenance on all the interface surfaces with a good gear oil compatible RTV helps extend timeline.

I just did mine again over the last few weeks.....along w/ the rear brakes shoes, resurfaced aluminum drums, new aluminum master cylinder, new combo proportioning valve, new lines, freshened line lock lines, fresh diff oil, etc....

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Old 02-11-2024, 03:40 PM
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So it seems the o ring leaks and not the lip seal,if it installs easy it may leak,if installs with some resistance( Bigger o ring)then it may be leak free.

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Old 02-11-2024, 03:54 PM
joes455 joes455 is offline
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Well my Moser axles are showing some pitting from the bearing surface,after clean up .0003 to .0004 material was removed ,so was thinking eliminator kit.If I decide to go back to original bearing what type bearing and what roller count ?meaning I've seen 13 and 15 rollers being offered.Which is better?sorry for additional questions.Also with the material removed ,will it be an issue?thanks

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Old 02-11-2024, 05:10 PM
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The whole GM C clip thing was a bad idea. If any of you have ever been on highway 199 from Crescent City CA to Grants Pass OR there is a tunnel near the border. So as a kid the family was making a trip in a 66 Catalina station wagon . And going through that tunnel the passenger side axle started coming out. The car was left in the middle of that tunnel with the right rear tire sticking out a foot past the fender. All of us kids had to walk out of that tunnel. It could have been very bad.
The way a 9" Ford axle is done was far better. Ford and Mopar had stronger axles and manual transmissions.

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Old 02-11-2024, 05:57 PM
gto4ben gto4ben is offline
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Are thinking of the Collier Tunnel? That's 1900ft long!
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Old 02-11-2024, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
The whole GM C clip thing was a bad idea. If any of you have ever been on highway 199 from Crescent City CA to Grants Pass OR there is a tunnel near the border. So as a kid the family was making a trip in a 66 Catalina station wagon . And going through that tunnel the passenger side axle started coming out. The car was left in the middle of that tunnel with the right rear tire sticking out a foot past the fender. All of us kids had to walk out of that tunnel. It could have been very bad.
The way a 9" Ford axle is done was far better. Ford and Mopar had stronger axles and manual transmissions.
How did the axle come out, what broke? I broke an axle at the drag strip on the starting line. Fortunately the axle stayed in place but it felt weird because it became a peg leg and I knew something was way wrong and i just shut it down. It broke right in the seal area.

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Old 02-11-2024, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gto4ben View Post
Are thinking of the Collier Tunnel? That's 1900ft long!
Thats it. Its a cool/weird drive along the Illinois River. Little ramble shack communities, the kind with old cars in backyards ! Selma, a little family resort lake that used to have one of those GIANT slides. There is a big junkyard that had some RAIV stuff at one time. A sawmill and a 9 hole golf course. And a wild animal big cat petting park. And Taylors Meats. Bring them any kind of game, animal and they will smoke it and make sausage out of it for you.
Americana baby !

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Old 02-11-2024, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
How did the axle come out, what broke? I broke an axle at the drag strip on the starting line. Fortunately the axle stayed in place but it felt weird because it became a peg leg and I knew something was way wrong and i just shut it down. It broke right in the seal area.
I don't know, I was about 12. I always thought a C clip broke or popped out.
IMO GM should have stayed with their big pumpkin rears for the heavy or performance cars.
Like I said, a LS6 and a 12 bolt is a poor match. On the ragged edge of being strong enough.
But hey, that very 66 Catalina came with a 389 and 3 on the tree. And the trans was a stock from the factory FoMoCo 3 speed cast iron Top Loader !
My dad found a AFB carb and intake off a 65 GTO and put it on the family wagon.
Sounded good too.
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Old 02-20-2024, 01:43 PM
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Isnt there a Strange kit requiring strange axles better for leak free street/strip use?

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Old 02-20-2024, 02:01 PM
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Strange has a "street kit" that has the better taper 3.150 bearings and has a sleeve that fits stock axles .

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Old 02-20-2024, 10:21 PM
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I installed Strange c-clip eliminators along with strange axels in the car when I built in in 1999. This year i noticed a little gear lube on the inside of the rim. I just got done changing the o-ring, seal and gasket. Hopefully I get another 25 years.

  #17  
Old 02-21-2024, 01:06 AM
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Just install rear discs and leave the C-clips in place. The caliper does an excellent job of retaining the axle/disc combination.

On another note, my '68 Firebird once lost the press-fit on the retaining collar for the axle bearing and the axle migrated out of the housing about a foot. Just like Dragncar had happen on his parents' car. Ever since then, I've Loctited the collars and never had that happen again.

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Old 02-21-2024, 08:39 AM
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No leaks for me.

Mark Williams axles and C clip eliminators in a factory 10 bolt.

I cannot even hazard to guess how many years....maybe 30 ish?

I have them apart every winter for maintenance.

K

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Old 02-21-2024, 11:12 AM
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Most C clip eliminators use a roller bearing-fine for straight line no so good for cornering where a taper bearing is better for that loading.
Doesn't NHRA require positive axle retention with slicks?

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  #20  
Old 02-21-2024, 11:25 AM
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A couple of related stories.

Sometime in the late 80's, I decided to run 9" slicks on a stock (1970 vintage) 12-bolt rearend in my 4-speed '77 T/A. The attached picture shows what happened to the axle on the first good launch at Maple Grove. I rebuilt the rearend with Summers Bros c-clip eliminator axles. Fast forward to a couple of years ago when I tracked down the current owner of my old T/A and cold-called him to see if he would sell it. He started asking a series of questions to decide if I was, in fact, the legitimate previous owner of that car. When I mentioned that it had Summers Bros. axles, he was convinced.

For my current road race project, my advisor at Wilwood brakes was happy that this car has a Ford 9" rearend in it. He explained that the clearance in a c-clip axle moving around will push the disk pads away from the rotor a little bit and create a lag in braking response.

FWIW,
Eric
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