[getmygoat]

Hello all,

I need to replace the rear rubber brake hose running from the frame to the diff. I tried breaking it loose with the correct flare nut wrench and still started stripping the head off the nut. I figured I might need to replace the brake line that went from the junction block on the frame back to the frame above the differential also to get out of this situation.

However, before I dive in to this, can someone confirm that front to rear brake line can be replaced with the body on the frame? I've done some searching in the archives and there are hints that it can but I'd like to be absolutely sure, as I believe I will be cutting the old line before I remove it so then I'll be at the point of no return.

Also, if anyone has any hints on how I might just break loose the rear line from the rubber hose, that might be an easier path. I had used the correct flare nut wrench on it but it still stripped. Been on there 50 years does not want to come loose.

Thanks!

[OG68]

Brake line can be done with the body on as it sits in the frame channel. Its tight by the axle but if you lower the axle it will be easily accessible.
Soak in some Kano Kroll or even 50/50 ATF/Acetone mix.

[getmygoat]

Thanks - I'm surprised lowering the axle would change anything as the steel brake line runs down the frame then over top of frame to the mounting point in the center. Rubber line takes it from there to the axle.

[rockys1970]

An old trick I learned years ago consisted of using a vice-grip pliers on the hex of the fitting. Lock it on as hard as you can. Then take a hammer and strike the vice grip hard. Sometimes it breaks the fitting loose. The worse case is it will destroy the fitting but you were considering cutting the line anyway. I have used this method on wheel cylinders with success. It may be more difficult for the rear line. Good luck

[OG68]

Originally Posted by getmygoat

Thanks - I'm surprised lowering the axle would change anything as the steel brake line runs down the frame then over top of frame to the mounting point in the center. Rubber line takes it from there to the axle.

Didn't mean to infer dropping the axle completely, but by disconnecting the shocks and driveshaft and lowering it down may gain you more working room on the front side.

[dataway]

Considering you are going to be under there .... and will have to bleed the whole system anyway ... I'd replace everything from the master cylinder to the rear wheels. Minimal cost compared to the work you will be doing. You probably don't want to crawl under there again to replace a rusted axle line. That stuck fitting is probably the hardest part of the job.

If making your own lines ... might want to use that nickel-copper stuff. I hear it's way easier to work with. I bought a spool of it just in case for future projects, flared beautifully.

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by dataway

Considering you are going to be under there .... and will have to bleed the whole system anyway ... I'd replace everything from the master cylinder to the rear wheels. Minimal cost compared to the work you will be doing. You probably don't want to crawl under there again to replace a rusted axle line. That stuck fitting is probably the hardest part of the job.

If making your own lines ... might want to use that nickel-copper stuff. I hear it's way easier to work with. I bought a spool of it just in case for future projects, flared beautifully.

Thanks - I bought a complete line set from inline tube so it would be the front to rear line and then the axle lines (and rubber hose). The car is pretty clean (California) and doesn't really need the new lines, but I can't get fluid to the rear brakes so I'm assuming the rubber line is collapsed internally.

[getmygoat]

Originally Posted by rockys1970

An old trick I learned years ago consisted of using a vice-grip pliers on the hex of the fitting. Lock it on as hard as you can. Then take a hammer and strike the vice grip hard. Sometimes it breaks the fitting loose. The worse case is it will destroy the fitting but you were considering cutting the line anyway. I have used this method on wheel cylinders with success. It may be more difficult for the rear line. Good luck

Thanks - I'm not sure if I have enough space in there to get a good blow with the hammer. Plus, if the hex nut is destroyed, to goes against my OCD to leave it on there.

[dataway]

Worst comes to worst ... cut off wheel, try to cut it off flush with the frame and it should just fall out.

[Scott Thelander]

buy a brand new pair of quality medium size vise grips with FLAT jaws
it will pop right loose
lefty lucy
I screwed up several with a curved jaw.... I really like my flat jaw style for this issue..
just used em last week ... pulling a disc brake set up and distribution valve

[dataway]

As a welder I must have 40 various types of clamps and vice grips ... I never even noticed that they make flat and curved jaw types ... jeez, learn something new every day. Now I have to buy some ... or look at mine, maybe I already have some

[getmygoat]

Hi all,

I was able to get the front->rear line disconnected from the rubber hose in the back. Hurray. Some PB blaster and a flare nut wrench. Had to use the hook one open end to another trick to get leverage.

Anyway, I see this bracket that is holding the fuel lines and brake lines together. No obvious way to disconnect. Any words of wisdom?

This is a framingham built car.

Thanks

[judgethis]

If its the one I'm thinking its bolted to the frame. It's basically a P clamp.

[getmygoat]

So not possible to remove with body on? I went into this project assuming the brake line could be replaced with body on, but if I have to destroy this clamp to do it then its not really what I had in mind. Thanks

[judgethis]

Im mot sure how long the bolt is and you would need to use an open end wrench to loosen. I remember reading here on the forum that some would loosen/take out the the body bolts from the drivers seat to rear and jack up body slightly and it could be removed. I had my body off when I did my last one but my LeMans I need to change them out and I will try and jack up the body to get it out. Did you try to reach up and feel for the bolt?

[rt400]

I replaced mine and fed in from back to front, seemed to work easiest. If you are stripping the nut, cut the line off against the nut and use a 6 point socket.

[getmygoat]

Thanks for your insights. Yeah, I can;t get my hand between the body and frame to reach the bolt at all. Given that the front to rear line is actually fine, I think I will declare victory with just replacing the rear lines and rubber hose.

When I retire in 5-10 years maybe I'll do frame off and do everything right then.

Thanks for all your insights!

[Rincon]

Before you replace brake lines read your service manual. There is a perportioning valve in the system that has a safety feature that prevents you from loosing brake fluid if a line developed a leak. It must be disarmed so to speaks according to a simple procedure spelled out in the service manual when you bleed the system or it will exhibit symptoms just like you are experencing. Reproduced Service manuals are sold by our host. Original manuals are also commonly available from eBay. Absolutely essential.