#41  
Old 03-12-2020, 09:49 AM
ddcrank ddcrank is offline
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Thank you Greg. Yes its been a long time project that's finally getting close. The car is very sentimental to me. I've owned the car for 40 years and my Dad and i used to drive the car to our ball games. We lost Dad 6 years ago but he was involved in seeing the car getting its restoration done. He helped me put the engine together and saw it dyno. We also installed the engine in the frame together. So they say a labor of love yes it is.

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Old 03-12-2020, 12:30 PM
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My goal with the car is to have it concourse judged that why i went with the correct Exhaust system from Gardner.

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  #43  
Old 04-06-2020, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
I always take too many "after" photos and not enough "before" photos

I bought some Permatex Ultra-Copper RTV .. good to like 700 degrees, which Permatex recommends for exhaust systems. Will try that ... don't want anything that hardens like most of the exhaust "sealants" out there.

.
I'd rethink using that sealer. In my own personal experience years ago I thought I'd come up with a great idea using that hi temp permatex to seal my system I put on there from leaking anything. It was a mistake. No matter how tight I made those clamps, the pipes wouldn't tighten down. my mufflers kept twisting on them when everything got hot and one muffler actually came off on me. I swore never again.

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Old 04-06-2020, 05:58 PM
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So far, with my preliminary installation, with only the head pipe bolts tight ... no leaks that I can hear or see, so I think you are right, the sealant isn't necessary. And yes I noticed that things have a tendency to move around even when snugged up. Not going to really clamp down until the very last, probably after the body work is installed.

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Old 04-11-2020, 07:25 AM
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what is the sealant that Gardner gives with their system? I was never sure if it was an gem thing, or just something they included. Looked like clear silicone. I have an orignal exhaust system removed from a 1978 Trans am at less than 1000 miles. You can see where sealant was used on the joints & still resides on the pipes today. BUT, this is 10 years later & on a Trans am, not an A body. I used some sealant on the tail pipe to muffler connection only. not much, but just a little & then I tightened the clamps until I could not turn them in the connection point. I didn't want to put a deep indent from the clamp that would make removal all but impossible later. Then as luck would have it, I did have to take it back apart & it was a lot harder to separate than I thought it would be. I know I mentioned it before, but I also had to loosen things up & drop some of it down to install my gas tank. The tail pipes are sooooo close the the tank & strap bolts.

I can post picts

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  #46  
Old 04-11-2020, 02:28 PM
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I just cranked mine up yesterday after snugging things up another turn or so ... everything seems to be staying in place. Tiny leak I can hear at the right side manifold/headpipe.

Ton of condensate coming out the pipes ... anyone ever drill a small drain hole in their mufflers? I've seen some that come that way. I know I'm not running it long enough to dry out the pipes.

  #47  
Old 05-08-2020, 06:51 AM
ddcrank ddcrank is offline
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This is the sealer that Gardner wants you to use on there system. It comes with the system.
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  #48  
Old 05-08-2020, 06:58 AM
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I have started my engine many times throughout the last 2 years putting the car together. almost always spitting water. Had the car at the muscle car nationals last November & dripped a few drops on the display mirrors after setup. So two Sundays ago I drove the car for the first time on the road. could not resist stomping the pedal down once coming out of a roundabout in my neighbor hood. IT spraying out a crazy amount of rusty water. almost like a reddish orange cloud, not tire white tire smoke.

I wasn't too surprised as there had been too many starts & stops I am sure every low spot in the pipes and mufflers had water in them.

I think the sealant mine came with was the same as ddcrank posted above.

My 78-80 trans ams have oem holes in the mufflers, however those mufflers are tipped down towards the driveshaft, so I question if they ever did any good.
Never made any leaking sounds from them though. holes are about 1/8-3/16"

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Old 05-08-2020, 06:59 PM
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Noticed a lot of condensate coming out of mine at idle ... first thing I thought of was that the mufflers didn't have drain holes. Not sure why, I though most of the factory mufflers had them. Seems like a good idea and I might just drill some in mine when the body is down and I can check the level accurately.

I would guess the vast majority of the condensation starts in the muffler as it's the first place the vapor has a chance to cool enough to condense.

Seems I heard way back in the day that an engine that produces a lot of condensate is running efficiently and the condensate is a sign a lot of the hydrocarbons are converting to H20 vapor ... or something to that effect.

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Old 05-11-2020, 12:02 AM
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Unleaded gas really extends exhaust life. The lead in the gas of that era would burn in the combustion chamber and burning lead produces very corrosive acid which accelerated the destruction of the exhaust system (and things like rear bumper chrome and pot metal taillight bezels etc).

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  #51  
Old 05-11-2020, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
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Unleaded gas really extends exhaust life. The lead in the gas of that era would burn in the combustion chamber and burning lead produces very corrosive acid which accelerated the destruction of the exhaust system (and things like rear bumper chrome and pot metal taillight bezels etc).
Thanks for this info. It's interesting to me so I did a quick online search to learn more. Per this blurb: Link to Shell Oil info on Avgas combustion and Pb fouling the Tetraethyl Pb burns to an oxide which I would NOT expect to be corrosive (stable, not easily ionized, effectively insoluble in water). The article goes on to explain, however, that Avgas has a bromine compound added to react with the Pb to form a bromide instead of an oxide. A bromide could explain corrosivity in the exhaust...

Maybe they used the same bromine compound in leaded auto fuels?

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Old 05-11-2020, 07:22 AM
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I should have been more exact in my comment. The lead additives in gas back then was actually Tetraethyl lead (THL) a compound that prevented the buildup of damaging lead oxides In engines.

To manufacture THL only feeds were found to be cost, Bromides and chlorides. Bromide turned out to be most effective for the specific needs of aviation fuel and chlorides for automotive fuels. Both these feed materials are the root cause of the corrosive nature of leaded fuels.

I’ve noticed on single exhaust cars a telltale of that corrosive effect. The pot-metal tail light bezels corrode much worse on the tailpipe side.

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  #53  
Old 05-11-2020, 08:31 PM
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Thanks north.. interesting! Per this article it seems ethyl chloride was used to produce TEL but the bromine compound was added to the gas/TEL mixture to reduce buildup of Pb compounds in the engine. I suspect only traces of chlorine made it into the TEL but seems Pb bromide was intentionally pumped out the exhaust.

https://www.britannica.com/science/tetraethyl-lead

Unleaded fuels probably got rid of the bromine but the alcohol had to increase the water vapor.. so probably more condensate but less corrosive without the halogens.

Back to topic, I don't think I've replaced any exhaust part on any of my cars because of corrosion in the last 20 years. I do remember rusty mufflers and tailpipes being common before unleaded gas. I suspect an aluminized steel exhaust system would last a long time.

  #54  
Old 05-11-2020, 09:42 PM
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My oldest aluminized system is about 25 years old and it hasn’t corroded whatsoever. I don’t bother with stainless systems because I don’t like the color and I believe an aluminized system that is on a car that has good dry storage and gets driven long enough to dry it out most times it’s started will outlast me.

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1969 Catalina (3 Cvt’s & a 2dr hardtop)
1969 Ventura 2 Seat Wagon
1969 Executive 4dr Sedan
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