#21  
Old 04-06-2013, 03:08 PM
marxjunk marxjunk is offline
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Very Nice Greg....very nice

i agree, it doesnt pay what it should, but if you love to do it, the feeling of accomplishment and a little bragging rights are plenty of reward...

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Last edited by marxjunk; 04-06-2013 at 03:15 PM.
  #22  
Old 04-07-2013, 10:23 AM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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Can't say as I agree that epoxy primer is self etching. It doesn't have the acid in it that self etching primer has -- methacrylated phosphoric to be exact. Two part epoxy primer is best laid down over a media blasted surface -- preferably using aluminum oxide. It is water proof whereas the self etching primer is not. I've used self etching primer only to come back and find rust had reappeared -- much like lacquer based primers. I always remember, in high school, seeing the cars guys had gray primed, but waited too long to paint and rust began to show.

Epoxy primer will deteriorate if left exposed to the elements/sun.

  #23  
Old 04-07-2013, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker View Post
Can't say as I agree that epoxy primer is self etching. It doesn't have the acid in it that self etching primer has -- methacrylated phosphoric to be exact. Two part epoxy primer is best laid down over a media blasted surface -- preferably using aluminum oxide. It is water proof whereas the self etching primer is not. I've used self etching primer only to come back and find rust had reappeared -- much like lacquer based primers. I always remember, in high school, seeing the cars guys had gray primed, but waited too long to paint and rust began to show.

Epoxy primer will deteriorate if left exposed to the elements/sun.
I should have been more clear
What I said generally is the case for regular Epoxy primer
What you said does apply to the newer crappy LF epoxys
I have a subframe blasted 10 years ago, and painted with DP40 and its been outdoors, no rust, and waterproof, the DPLF40 would Never have made it 2 years
You are right... Epoxy is best on mediablasted, and while it doesnt have acid, it can cure to, and I suppose "grip" a bit better than just an etching primer. I prefer to etch the metal, then epoxy..
Not many places to get the "good" epoxy, although the Govt. has no problems getting it
IE: DP40= battleship gray ..

  #24  
Old 10-22-2014, 08:45 PM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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I'm working on a pair of leaf springs right now. I've disassembled a new set from Eaton spring to change out the incorrect aspects -- smallest leaf is cut differently and the plastic pads are different. There's no way to get those old clamps off without compromising the tabs, so I bought a set from Craig as well.

What I noticed in disassembling the leafs is that the metal is actually your standard steel blue-grey color, not the "natural" steel color everyone paints them with, so I'm debating on what color I should coat them with.

Thoughts?

  #25  
Old 10-22-2014, 10:47 PM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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If you really want to produce a correct looking natural steel finsih, you will not be applying paint of any sort. Use Cosmolene, get the military grade. the clean steel/cast iron will soak it up and will not rust./ I have a pair of spindles that I applied cosmolene almost 2 years ago, I am in an area of the south where humidity is often >80%, still do not have any rust. Plus it leaves a true bare metal look that paint of any kind will neevr replicate. Still amazes me that the resto shops don't sell cosmolene for this purpose..There is a few spray can models of cosmolene, I have tried the spray can and the pint wax'ish cosmolene, the wax'ish military grade works much better than the aerosol style..

  #26  
Old 10-22-2014, 10:56 PM
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Thing is, the short leaves needed to be sand blasted and I've blasted the second leaves to remove the black paint and stains that came from Eaton. I was planning on epoxy priming each leaf separately then reassembling the springs and painting.

Don't you have a hard time keeping parts clean that are coated in cosmolene?

  #27  
Old 10-22-2014, 11:02 PM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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Here are pics of a 71 TA's rear axle I did this past spring. Made it thru the spring and summer without a speck of rust. Anyone who knows how humid it is in Memphis will attest recently blasted metal will flash rust in hours during the heat of the summer- especially cast like the pumpkin shown here. If you look close you will see traces of amber looking color, that is not rust, it is the remnants of the cosmolene. Cosmolene is amber waxy material. Guys, if you want your bare metal to always look like bare metal, use cosmolene. FYIY, OEM's like Mercedes and BMW have coated the undersides of their cars for ocean transport to the US for years. Military have packed guns in cosmo since WWI..Still amazed it is not used more frequently in the resto buiz.. Just search for mil grade cosmolene and you will find chem companies that sell pints or quarts as well as 55 gallon drums.. I gave up using paints years ago, just never looks like metal up close. Guess paint is ok for "1o footer" but if you really want bare metal, you will have to use something other than paint. Then again, the judges at shows seem to all use paint, so not sure it will cost you ,actually will probably gain points even though not technically correct.. good luck.
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  #28  
Old 10-22-2014, 11:07 PM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker View Post
Thing is, the short leaves needed to be sand blasted and I've blasted the second leaves to remove the black paint and stains that came from Eaton. I was planning on epoxy priming each leaf separately then reassembling the springs and painting.

Don't you have a hard time keeping parts clean that are coated in cosmolene?
Not at all. recently blasted metal will almost soak up the cosmolene. The mil grade will actually harden in temps<65f or so. I use a cheap heat gun on the pint size can, turns it to liquid almost immediately,use cotton rags and soak it on.

  #29  
Old 10-23-2014, 07:27 AM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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I guess my point is, once blasted, the metal is now silver rather than blue and the cosmolene is transparent, so it will look different.

  #30  
Old 10-23-2014, 08:43 AM
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2manyT/A'S 2manyT/A'S is offline
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I've been using Evaporust for removing light and flash rust from smaller parts.....It works great for leaving a natural looking unabraded finish.....BUT....unless treared or painted....the rust will return.....

Anybody had any luck with using a clearcoat that won't absorb moisture and rust over time?

Perhaps there is some new technology out there now.....

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  #31  
Old 10-23-2014, 09:45 AM
70RAlll 70RAlll is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker View Post
I guess my point is, once blasted, the metal is now silver rather than blue and the cosmolene is transparent, so it will look different.
I guess you avoided the part of my post where I stated cosmolene is amber color?? Cosmolene is anything but clear. Did my axle look silver?? Look, you don't want to use anything but some sort of paint., fine.. but don't comment on something until you have tried it. I have worked with many many different coatings trying to replicate the original bare/cast look. This is as close to original as you will get..

  #32  
Old 10-23-2014, 04:47 PM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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Bill, I know it's amber, but you can still see through it, correct?

  #33  
Old 10-27-2014, 09:54 AM
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You fellas may be interested in the RPM product from Dave. Here is a link to a rather interesting build he developed the product for.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...fpart=all&vc=1

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  #34  
Old 10-27-2014, 01:33 PM
transam1972 transam1972 is offline
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I was reading this post and I definitely agree with 70RAIII on this one..bare steel is what it is...through the years I have taken the underhood nuts (securing brackets etc.) and hit them with the wire brush...only to watch them rust again..I had forgotten about this Cosmolene stuff and plan to order it this week to end this problem...a fully restored car with natural parts painted is someones choice, though technically not correct...I have always thought of oil & grease as a cars friend...I swear the A arms and underneath of my car has over 30 year old natural protection and would never think of cleaning it off...but I can certainly appreciate the amount of work that goes into a fully restored car that looks showroom new

  #35  
Old 10-27-2014, 03:49 PM
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I have to wonder how well cosmolene holds up in areas where the is constant heat, like in the engine compartment. I would think it would melt out and/or evaporate in little time leaving no protection.

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  #36  
Old 10-27-2014, 05:22 PM
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Has anyone tried "Fluid-Film" I found it through a Ag Tractor Dealer, Just curious if it would fit what everyone is looking for ???????

  #37  
Old 10-27-2014, 05:45 PM
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Here is a link to the product that I had posted earlier from the Moparts thread

http://www.ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php?rpmlnk=main

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  #38  
Old 10-27-2014, 06:05 PM
FunctionalShaker FunctionalShaker is offline
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Did the rear springs actually come from the factory coated in cosmolene anyway? I doubt it.

  #39  
Old 10-27-2014, 08:40 PM
transam1972 transam1972 is offline
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Originally Posted by 68bird400HO View Post
I have to wonder how well cosmolene holds up in areas where the is constant heat, like in the engine compartment. I would think it would melt out and/or evaporate in little time leaving no protection.
...luckily my car just sits

  #40  
Old 10-27-2014, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
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Did the rear springs actually come from the factory coated in cosmolene anyway? I doubt it.
I'll bet they were starting to show some signs of rust as soon as they hit the selling dealers lot.....

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