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Old 10-02-2019, 03:30 AM
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Default Rear brake/fuel line drama

So I'm installing my fuel lines ... steel lines from "the right stuff". What a pain. They seem to be about 1.5" too short at the front and too long at the back. Meaning only about 2" sticking out of the frame by the fuel pump ... and they want to rest on top of the spring perch in the back.

Anyway ... I've got them installed back to the front of the lower control arm area and I'm trying to figure out the clip/clamp arrangement ... the assembly manual is not much help.

Was wondering if anyone has pics of that area before they put the body back on? I need the area of the driver side spring perch where they turn the corner. Also having trouble figuring out where the spring line covers are supposed to be.

This is a 68 Hardtop with supply and return lines.

Thanks.

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Old 10-02-2019, 06:43 AM
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I went through that about 2 years ago. KK68 & purelyGTO68 had some great orignal picts as I recall. They are vert pictures but I think they posted picts of the spring perch area too which I would think would be the same? I think I may have used a clip at the search that was different to make them fit better. I fussed over it for a while & now that the car is together you can't even see it. I have picts I can dig up & might have saved some of those picts they posted, but picts from a HT might be better if somebody has them?

My lines came from Inline & I had to rebend them just about everywhere to make them fit like original. They were close in some areas though.

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Old 10-02-2019, 06:56 AM
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I found the thread, with several good original picts. Looks like I used the right clips, but I had to settle for the lines going over the edge of the perch even though it looks like most originals went in front. There is room on top & it cannot be seen once the body is on. I really had no choice. One of the concessions a person has to make with aftermarket stuff. Glad I had as many original parts as I did though. Just about everything aftermarket has some quirk with it compared to originals.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=818210

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Old 10-02-2019, 12:30 PM
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I had problems with the Classic (NPD IIRC) brake lines. Too long where the rear line met the distribution block. The crossover line to the right front was also incorrect.
The fuel line from NPD was almost like the original I took off. I had to bend it slightly over the spring perch to make it match the original line.
And fuel pump end does stick out about two inches past the frame opening.

Pay no attention to the body mount colors. They are wrong for a Fremont car.





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Old 10-02-2019, 12:42 PM
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Some "Before" photos





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Old 10-02-2019, 04:29 PM
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OK ... jeez, I feel way better now. That is exactly how mine are fitting. I've got all the necessary clips and bolts ... although I'm not so sure about my pointy bolts ... I thought the factory used blunt end self-tappers in frame holes and the point bolts in places with spring nut/clips.

So basically the factory just kind of jammed these lines in where they would fit and bolted them down ... just like I'm doing

Excellent ... thanks guys, got enough info to finish them now .... one step closer to it being ready for the engine to drop in.

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Old 10-02-2019, 05:04 PM
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FWIW, If you're not going for a concurs restoration and want functionality I use Nicopp lines for everything I replace on my daily drivers, as well as performance cars. Easy to bend, double flare, and it's only too short if, you make it too short. It also never corrodes.


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Old 10-02-2019, 05:48 PM
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I am sort of going for a very correct restoration ... but I have read up on that stuff and if I hadn't already bought all the lines I would have gone that route, pretty impressive stuff, and I already have all the tubing tools in my shop to bend, flare and cut.

I think by looking at pictures I could have easily made the bends, noting too fancy there.

Do they make it in fuel line sizes? Biggest I see is 1/4" ... and heck, for fuel lines you don't even have to flare it.

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Old 10-02-2019, 06:02 PM
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Comes in most auto parts stores to at least 3/8" (Advance Auto, Amazon). I've used it for fuel line and 5/16" for cooler lines on my 93 K3500 because both the fuel lines and the cooling lines rusted through. I also replumbed all the brake lines, 3/16", and 1/4".

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Old 10-03-2019, 03:11 AM
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Pretty much done with them .. just noticed in one of the photos a bracket that is missing so I'll try to take care of that tomorrow. In general they seem to fit similar to everyone else's cars. The SS brake line is kind of a pain, never very willing to "adjust" it's bends and such. Still need to try to fish out some of the protective cloth covering.

Protective springs are kind of randomly placed on the fuel lines, I think I have the brake line correct though. The re-pop fuel lines seem to have a lot more of the springs than OEM did.
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Old 10-03-2019, 03:06 PM
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OG68, that looks like a RA exhaust that actually fits, where did you purchase it?

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Old 10-03-2019, 04:27 PM
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Inline Tube through Amazon. The whole system still needs final adjustments once the engine is in, so the jury is still out. So far I'm happy with it.

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Old 10-03-2019, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG68 View Post
Inline Tube through Amazon. The whole system still needs final adjustments once the engine is in, so the jury is still out. So far I'm happy with it.
I'll wait to hear about the post-motor install fitment before I run out and buy another set. The way mine is now I can't even get the over the axle pipes on.

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Old 10-04-2019, 03:34 AM
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While we are at it .... does the exhaust system hang from the body at any point, or is it all chassis mounted? Just wondering if I can fully install the exhaust system before dropping the body back down.

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Old 10-04-2019, 06:28 AM
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Yep, it only hangs from the two brackets at the back of the mufflers & the tail pipes, both from the frame. However, I can tell you that getting the gas tank straps & bolts installed is a PITA as the tailpipes are very tight in that area behind the tank. I ended up loosening the exhaust back up to do it, but I didn't remove anything completely.

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Old 10-04-2019, 10:44 AM
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Carls correct, just two clamps per side to the frame. I started with the mufflers first, tail pipes, followed by the header pipes. Used a strap under the crossmember to hold the header pipes up.

I thing I found out later when lowering the body was that the tailpipes were too high. Had to remove the clamps to get the body down. Solution was to adjust the clamp at a 30* angle where it connects to the rubber. Looked at my originals which is how the factory did it.





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Last edited by OG68; 10-04-2019 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 10-04-2019, 11:26 AM
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Put a nice coat of light oil on that grey phosphate and it'll fend off the corrosion.

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Old 10-04-2019, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webfoot View Post
Put a nice coat of light oil on that grey phosphate and it'll fend off the corrosion.
Can you just clear coat the gray phosphate or will it not stick?

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Old 10-04-2019, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the pics, very helpful. I'll be asking for more advice when it comes time to install the tank ... sure wish it was supported by the frame instead of the body, would make things way easier.

What size exhaust are you guys using ... I was planing on the stock (I think) 2.25" pipes (mandrel bent). I've got regular log manifolds so large pipes won't do me much good.

I'm hoping to set things up so I can actually run the engine while it's in the chassis only .... need the exhaust on so I can pipe the fumes out of the shop

Greg ... I think clear coat should stick to gray phosphate very well if it wasn't previously oiled. Phosphate is commonly used to promote paint adhesion.

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Old 10-04-2019, 01:36 PM
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I guess I didn't know the phosphate ever got painted, I thought it was meant to be oiled periodically.

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