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#1
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1967 TH 400 Auto transmission rebuild
A few months ago I took a slow drive around the block in the 67 GTO I am restoring. After I backed the car into the garage, i heard a slight groan / grinding sound then transmission fluid started puking out from the transmission cover between the engine and transmission. The car has been sitting since.
Yesterday I pulled the transmission ( 1967 code PS turbo 400). I am going to have it checked out, but was wondering if I should consider any performance upgrades during the rebuild? Also , what would be a good torque converter stall speed to use?. The engine is basically a stock 67 400 and the car is restored like stock. |
#2
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for a stock car a stock build will more than suffice... adding a shift kit won’t hurt so you can impress your friends with a 1-2 chirp
Assuming you’re also running a stock converter, a little extra stall might put a little spunk into your driving enjoyment as well. Stall speed will require a bunch of info including your driving style and typical use.
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71 GTO, 463, KRE 295 cfm heads ported by SD Performance, RPM intake, Qjet, Dougs Headers, Comp cams HR 246/252 ...11 to 1 , 3.55 cogs, 3985lbs.....day three- 11.04 at 120mph ....1.53 60', 6.98 1/8 mile |
#3
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if the fluid is red, then you may want to reuse the converter.
Also, you may want to warm the engine up on level ground, run the TH400 throught the ranges R N D 2 1 back and forth 10. times. Then check fluid level. Then drive ot hard, really hard, and decide if it really needs a rebuild. Might just need a new filter. |
#4
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Early 67s still used the canister style filter. Shops prefer using the later valvebody, so they
can use the more common filter. 3 dimples and a heelprint on the pan help identify the early stuff. Not exactly a big deal, but they might want some coin for another valvebody so this is more of a heads up?? HTH. |
#5
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The TH400 is probably "THE" easiest transmission there is to rebuild. All the clutches in front, all the gears in back, and no pistons pressed into the case.
I would use a Transgo shift kit in preference to B&M, TCI, etc. A relatively stock engine might benefit from a switch-pitch torque converter. They were still making them in '67, although it was the last year. If you don't already have a switch-pitch converter, you'd need some internal parts to make it work, and an external controller. Most guys just use a slightly-higher stall speed "ordinary" converter. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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The transmission is an early 67 with three dimples, heel stamp, and canister filter. the fluid was red and the inside of the transmission looked clean. There was a coating of black on inside bottom of the pan though.
I had not heard of "switch pitch" converters before so i did a little reading on them. Decided not o pursue that route and stick with an original style converter. I could not find any information on what is a factory stock torque converter stall speed for this car. any ideas and recommendations on what stall speed would be good? |
#7
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Do a stock rebuild you will get real sick and tired of the bang shifting caused by those transmission kits..
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#8
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Quote:
A higher-stall torque converter also tends to soften the harsh shifts. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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Quote:
Consider merely replacing the filter. See what happens. It'd cost you a filter and gasket kit, some fluid...and maybe save you a rebuild. |
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