[1qikta]

Does anyone have a good source for natural steel colored spray paint? Something better than just a gray or silver color...something specific to the application. The areas I was thinking about are the differential axle tubes and driveshaft for restoration purposes.

Thanks!!!

[robscar]

Did you look at Eastwood? Maybe Hirsch also.

[68bird400HO]

Rustoleum has a stainless steel paint in their Professional High Performance line that is excellent. It is a great match to bare steel, durable, and dries fast (unlike other Rustoleum paints).

Best of all it is only about $6 for a 15oz rattle can and Home Depot and Lowes carry it.

[rexs73gto]

On a correct resto you would not put any thing on the bare steel areas of the car, it would be left to go to a rust surface with nothing on it. Eastwood doesn't sell anything like that because they know the bare areas stay bare. If you want the bare areas to stay rust free really all you need is some semi-gloss clear to put on those areas. It will cover & not let those areas rust but stay bare(with no color) if thats what your after.

[Brewster]

The semi-gloss will still leave a shine which would not be correct for original bare metal appearance,however it is one of the best maintenance free options. Otherwise leave the parts bare and lubricating them on a pm program. Been there done that!
Pro Lube 6 is the best product I have found for this application and will not collect dust and dirt. Typically I have to rub the parts down 3-4 times per year depending upon humidity levels and how often the car is driven.
Remember spraying an axle clear or pigmented is still going to be subjected to rock chips. Either way its a maintenance area if you wish to keep it mint looking.
What are you doing to the leaf springs, sway bars, bumper brackets, and hardware? You might consider the same program for all to be consistent through out the car.

[RamAirPwr]

Have any of you used Gibbs penetrant?

From their website:

Classic car restoration shops use Gibbs Brand to protect master cylinders and many other bare metal surfaces on cars that have to look completely original when they are judged in competition.

http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/#intro

[TA455HO]

Another good paint that I've used is this Seymour's Stainless Steel paint. Very nice stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee...ss+steel+paint

[theamcguy]

Clearing bare metal does not always work as the rust sometimes comes back under the clear. Seymour & Eastwood both make excellent paints that mimic the look of bare steel. To have bare steel/cast iron that will not rust take a look at Rust Prevention Magic. I know gimmicky name sounds like a product on a late night infomercials but the stuff works. Check it out here http://ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

On a correct resto you would not put any thing on the bare steel areas of the car, it would be left to go to a rust surface with nothing on it. Eastwood doesn't sell anything like that because they know the bare areas stay bare. If you want the bare areas to stay rust free really all you need is some semi-gloss clear to put on those areas. It will cover & not let those areas rust but stay bare(with no color) if thats what your after.

Originally Posted by Brewster

The semi-gloss will still leave a shine which would not be correct for original bare metal appearance,however it is one of the best maintenance free options. Otherwise leave the parts bare and lubricating them on a pm program. Been there done that!
Pro Lube 6 is the best product I have found for this application and will not collect dust and dirt. Typically I have to rub the parts down 3-4 times per year depending upon humidity levels and how often the car is driven.
Remember spraying an axle clear or pigmented is still going to be subjected to rock chips. Either way its a maintenance area if you wish to keep it mint looking.
What are you doing to the leaf springs, sway bars, bumper brackets, and hardware? You might consider the same program for all to be consistent through out the car.

Valspar sells a "Flat" clear coat that leaves no gloss or finish shine. I have not tried it on bare "steel" but worth a try.

[Formulabruce]

The original "bare steel" on say a driveshaft WAS pretty shinny, when new. ( can get pictures) Bead or sandblasting will only make it look restored. Axle tubes, same way.
Shiny "tin" look is probably most correct for bare steel, obviously cast is different.
Eastwood or other brand, for bare steel, the area has to be very smooth to even come close
THEAMC guy has it pretty much nailed..

[165th]

Originally Posted by TA455HO

Another good paint that I've used is this Seymour's Stainless Steel paint. Very nice stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Stee...ss+steel+paint

I'm a big fan of Seymour for steel color. Here are some pics of the upper and lower A frame and rear end axle tubes in Seymour paint.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

On a correct resto you would not put any thing on the bare steel areas of the car, it would be left to go to a rust surface with nothing on it. Eastwood doesn't sell anything like that because they know the bare areas stay bare. If you want the bare areas to stay rust free really all you need is some semi-gloss clear to put on those areas. It will cover & not let those areas rust but stay bare(with no color) if thats what your after.

My past experiences with clearcoating natural steel were not that successful....looked great for a while & then started to develop rust issues...

[1qikta]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

My past experiences with clearcoating natural steel were not that successful....looked great for a while & then started to develop rust issues...

Me too. Just about done with the high maintence to keep an unseen item new looking.

Thanks for everyone's input!

[Tunas73TA]

I used quite a bit of eastwood's line of stuff as I was not trying to be 100% perfect and didn't want the hassles of rust appearing in a few years, so everything got something on it.
The "Spray Gray" was the closest to a cast iron look that I used on the rear and housing and spindles.



I found that this "cast iron" engine paint was the same shade but cheaper and I could buy it at the local store:



It just looks much lighter in these pics.

[165th]

When you are coating these parts, be sure you put a good primer down first, or rust will still show through after time. The colors are not great at preventing moisture from penetrating through them.

A good sealer/primer/metal adhesion promoter will seal up the metal. It will also allow you to use much less top coat of the color you are shooting.

I like the Tempo Aviation Zinc Phosphate primer A702. This particular product requires several light coats to be put on with up to an hour between shots. Too heavy of an initial coat and it seems it never dries. Ive found that high build primers are not as sticky or durable but can also be used to fill some pitting if needed. I will shoot the high build on top of the A702, then sand, then topcoat. But if not building up with primer, then the A702 is a great base.

Primer today, topcoat tomorrow

[FunctionalShaker]

Is that an epoxy primer, or a self etching? I've used both and much prefer epoxy.

[marxjunk]

165th..whats yer name and do you have a build thread? nice detail work..it looks like car porn/art

[165th]

Originally Posted by FunctionalShaker

Is that an epoxy primer, or a self etching? I've used both and much prefer epoxy.

The can says modified epoxy but I don't know how it can be since its already mixed in the can . I really don't like the self etching primer either.

Originally Posted by marxjunk

165th..whats yer name and do you have a build thread? nice detail work..it looks like car porn/art

Hi Mark, I'm Greg. I don't have a thread but if you click on the link of the Flikr photos at the bottom of my signature you can see some pictures of the two Trans Am's I'm restoring. Thanks for the compliment on the detail work. Unfortunately it doesn't pay quite as well as porn, but it's a heck of a lot more fun!

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 165th

The can says modified epoxy but I don't know how it can be since its already mixed in the can . I really don't like the self etching primer either.



Hi Mark, I'm Greg. I don't have a thread but if you click on the link of the Flikr photos at the bottom of my signature you can see some pictures of the two Trans Am's I'm restoring. Thanks for the compliment on the detail work. Unfortunately it doesn't pay quite as well as porn, but it's a heck of a lot more fun!

Epoxy primer actually is self etching, but the stand alone, non epoxy "self etching" primers I dont like either..

[165th]

Since we have completely highjacked 1qikta's thread, I might as well post up the leaf springs I finished up for the Sister car this morning. These are the leafs that I primed last weekend in the pictures above.

Just a clarification, this is not the Seymour 16-054 Stainless Steel. This is OER High Solid Stainless Steel K89580. The OER product is not as bright as the Seymour.

The leaf spring binder clips are Norwood's great reproduction product. No more having to nurse the old clips off, de-rust, clean paint and nurse back on trying not to break an ear. Instead just hammer them home! Thank you CRAIG!