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Old 05-30-2019, 02:37 PM
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Default Front clip alignment on '67 Lemans?

About to take the driver fender off the '67. I need to test fit the replacement fender before I weld the fender patch in. Does the hood need to come off to remove the driver's fender? Looks like the hood hinge attaches to the fender. Drivetrain is out.

What's the proper way to check the fit of a lower fender patch on the car?

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  #2  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:25 PM
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Nobody? Bueller?

As long as the fender/door gap looks OK and the door opens, it's good?

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  #3  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:51 PM
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If it were me, I would trial fit it to the car and tack it in place before welding it completely.

Make sure it doesn't distort during the welding process, not sure if you have visited this thread.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=829125


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Old 06-05-2019, 01:54 AM
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Trying to follow you....you are replacing the original fender and then patching the replacement fender?

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Old 06-05-2019, 12:43 PM
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Correct. The original fender looks like it won a demolition derby on the deck of the Titanic. It's fubar and never lined up right. The replacement fender is in pretty good shape, except for needing a lower patch near the driver's door. I've got the patch screwed into place with sheetmetal screws. I need to confirm it lines up with the door before I weld it in.

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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
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  #6  
Old 06-05-2019, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiphead View Post
The original fender looks like it won a demolition derby on the deck of the Titanic.
Sounds like a heroic stand, and in the midst of being very unlucky at least it saved the rest of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiphead View Post
It's fubar and never lined up right.
If there is no other damage to the car, the replacement fender should line up in all areas very well for you.

If there is other damage, such as the inner fender, it will be easily noticed and the opportune time to address it.

Sounds like you have it under control !



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Old 06-06-2019, 01:02 AM
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Not an expert but I would use the original lower trailing edge of the fender to dictate the angle of the patch. I'd do this with the fender on the car to make sure it aligns with the door and a-pillar also.

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Last edited by Greg Reid; 06-06-2019 at 01:07 AM.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:52 AM
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Good suggestion. I test fit the fender over the weekend. With the inner fender brace removed, the lower section of the fender wants to flop in/out a lot. I have to curve the lower edge in a good bit to get the fender above the repair to line up with door. But if I contort the fender just right, it lines up. Looks like patch placement is good, just need to get curve correct. The curve is set by the new fender inner brace and how it's welded to the original fender.

I'll tack weld it in place and see what you guys think

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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25

Last edited by chiphead; 06-11-2019 at 12:01 PM.
  #9  
Old 06-12-2019, 09:19 PM
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Here's where I'm at, started cutting the overlap from the bottom. Is this the right approach, start from one end and work my way around?
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__________________
I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25
  #10  
Old 06-13-2019, 02:03 AM
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Again, I'm not the expert and probably have more questions than answers... So, are you going to butt weld at the red line? ....or what exactly?
Looking at your photo, I think I would cut along the red line a couple of inches at a time and peel away the excess, spot welding as I progressed. The other way would be to cut the entire patch out along the red line as it sits right now and use welding clamps or magnets to hold it in place as you weld.
That's the way I do them anyway. In fact, I'm doing a half dozen or so patches on my little Datsun right now. Good practice for me as I'm not the best welder.
I have found that for me, the most important time spent is getting the patches to fit properly.



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  #11  
Old 06-14-2019, 12:50 PM
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Yup, cut along the overlap on the red line. The black line is where the original fender ends underneath. So I've got to stay between the lines so I get a nice tight weld gap. Butt tack it together as I go. The challenge is once i placed the first tack, the patch was harder to move into alignment with the original fender.

So I'm curious if I should start the cut/tacks from the inner most point and work my way out to the edges, so the metal can flex its way outward as I move.

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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25
  #12  
Old 06-14-2019, 12:56 PM
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You might have to make the cuts pretty long to maintain more flexibility? That piece is pretty rigid. Looking at it now...maybe option two would be better. Cut to the exact shape, trace it over the existing fender and cut, clamp it in place and weld.
I like to space my welds evenly around the perimeter, repeat, etc.
Actually, where you have it right now is the perfect place to cut it with a 1/16 cutoff wheel. Fit should be perfect..
Hopefully someone that knows way more than l will chime in.

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Last edited by Greg Reid; 06-14-2019 at 01:06 PM.
  #13  
Old 06-15-2019, 08:30 PM
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I am no expert either but I can try to help explain.

What Greg is suggesting would make it much easier for you to line the two pieces up and keep them flush before you tack them.

I realize you may not be comfortable cutting the patch panel to the correct size for the hole in the fender while keeping it in the correct orientation, but you can.

If you have screwed the patch panel on the fender (which it looks like you have), a trial fitting to the car will show you if it's properly aligned. I think you did that.

Cut away the portion on the fender that is bad and then scribe a very thin line on the patch panel around the repair area.

Now you have a patch panel with a line that fits the hole exactly with no room for a weld.

Make 2 very thin lines on the inside of that scribe line, one at 1/16" and another at 1/8", that will give you a line to cut to, (the 1/16" line) and one for a reference (the 1/8" line).

This will give you a 1/16" gap to fill with weld, (this allows you to get good penetration with less heat) while keeping the patch orientated and flush.

If you tack just a few spots (with very small tacks) waiting for it to cool, it will be easier to keep flush, keep the 1/16 gap, and now you can check it on the car again.

If you are satisfied, continue to jump between tacks keeping it as cool as you can to minimize distortion.

If you haven't watched this it might help with keeping the distortion down to a minimum and give you some other ideas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tdAgTCghUk

He has a few other vids that you may like, and there are other vids on YouTube also that are very helpful.

Try to be patient it takes time, I hope this helps.



Frank

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Old 07-03-2019, 10:30 AM
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So I got the patch tacked in place. I'm putting the fender on/off/on to get final curve correct before I weld it all together. Where's the best place to get an assortment of body panel alignment shims that go under the mounting points?

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White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2019, 12:41 PM
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Sounds like a plan. I have a lot of those shims but I can't remember for sure where I got them. I think maybe it was in a front fender bolt kit?

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  #16  
Old 08-20-2019, 10:46 PM
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So here's the update. Got the patch welded in, planished and ground down. Also made a plug to fill in the trim hole on the edge. Still need to work dents and then weld the inner brace back in. I've since hit the repair with some header paint so I can block it and see how far off it is.

What do you guys think so far?
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__________________
I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP
Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25
  #17  
Old 08-20-2019, 11:46 PM
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Looks like it’s ready for the lead.

  #18  
Old 08-21-2019, 12:56 AM
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Won't need much. Good welding.

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  #19  
Old 09-09-2019, 09:37 PM
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Here's the latest. I made several passes at raising low spots and shrinking high spots. It's not perfect, but not bad for amateur night at the Apollo.

What should I paint the backside of the patch with, before I weld in the inner brace? Something needs to protect the bare steel, but not sure what?
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum.

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Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25
  #20  
Old 09-09-2019, 09:48 PM
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^^^^^^ use the same primer as you would on the outside of the cars bare metal

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