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Old 03-23-2020, 06:36 PM
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1969GPSJ 1969GPSJ is offline
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Question Fell down the Rochester Quadrajet Rabbit hole with a 7040273 carb. Ideas?

So, I pulled the carb off of my 1969 Grand Prix 4 speed car which is my resto-mod candidate,* and I find this:* A 7040273 Date coded 1270 (May 7, 1970) Quadrajet.*

This is clearly not the "correct" carb for my car, but that is not an issue to me.

My long term plan for this car is fuel injection - probably direct port injection.* So the quadrajet is not important for my plan.* (don't get me wrong, I really like Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors, and can really make them run well)

I have been planning on keeping it carbureted for a while, so I go looking for rebuild kit.

I did a little research on the numbers and date code:

That's when I fell down the Rabbit hole.* Apparently this is a rare carb for 4 speed Ram Air GTOs and Trans Ams.

It seems that they may be worth a lot of money to those wishing to make their 4 speed GTO or Ram Air 70 1/2 Trans Am numbers matching.

I can:

1)*carefully and meticulously*clean it up, and put a kit in it, and sell it.*

2) do a "normal" good job clean up, put a kit in it, use it until I decide to replace it - then?

3) or?



Any thoughts or ideas?**

What are these really worth.* I see crazy prices, even just for the top plate.*

What is the deal?



Thanks!

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Old 03-23-2020, 06:51 PM
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Leave it in its current condition and sell it.

The less you mess with it the more it’s worth to someone whose high-end restoration needs it.

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Old 03-23-2020, 06:57 PM
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Half-Inch Stud Half-Inch Stud is offline
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Sell as-is to someone you know has such a car. Or on PY. Or on ebay.

Snafus:
Discovering the Fuel inlet Threads are corroded.
Discovering the Top-Plate long Rear Screws won't unscrew.
Finding corrosion in the fuel bowl
Discovering the Dang body is warped from use with a 1/4" thick Intake gasket.

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Old 03-23-2020, 07:07 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man View Post
Leave it in its current condition and sell it.

The less you mess with it the more it’s worth to someone whose high-end restoration needs it.
That is the very best advice. We were cleaning out an estate a couple years ago. There was a box of about 15 Q-jets in it. Some complete, some in pieces. Ran all the numbers on them. All but 1 were run of the mill 1960's-early 1970's models. Nothing special. Sold them for $40.00-50.00 each as rebuildable cores. One was a complete 1970 Oldsmobile W30 4-speed complete carb. My Olds friend threw an ad on an Olds forum without a price and some pics. A guy contacted him immediately. The conversation went to what is it worth to you to the buyer. He offered it was worth $1200.00 to him site unseen just from the pics. He also said:
Do not touch any screws, Do not take anything apart. Pack it super carefully and insure it for 2K. That's what we did. He was thrilled to get it. I had a 7040273 on my 70 Trans AM. Nothing special about it. But I guess someone who is really into the numbers game would prize it.

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Old 03-23-2020, 08:41 PM
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If you don't "need" to sell it, then I say keep it. Someday you might want to reuse it. And if someone wants it really bad and offers that "1200.00", you know they'll sell if for way more than that.... because they can and will.

It also goes with the saying that... "I could kick my self in the a** for selling it!!". I've said that myself many times.

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Old 03-23-2020, 09:13 PM
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Depending on how correct and complete it is (not a mishmash of different parts) it could likely bring enough to buy most if not all of your fuel injection setup. Any common Quadrajet will fill the bill here in the meantime.

You don’t have a Ram Air engine that it belongs on.

Somebody else does.

Reap the benefits of your good fortune and move it on down the road.

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Old 03-23-2020, 09:37 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Post some pictures of it in the 69-71 Judge section -
and we can help you determine how correctly intact it is.

Most of these have been through one of the mass remanufacturing outfits in their past.
And they get mismatched airhorns and baseplates , along with other mods.

The more original - the more the value, naturally.
You'll get questions about each piece and parameter when you do go to sell it, might as well be an educated seller beforehand.


Quote:
You don’t have a Ram Air engine that it belongs on.

Somebody else does.

Reap the benefits of your good fortune and move it on down the road.
Solid Advice ^

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Old 03-23-2020, 10:36 PM
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You have a pm

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Old 03-24-2020, 01:43 AM
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What a few others are saying, take pics and offers from guys into the 69 70 GTO's if its nice ,you can probably get enough money for it to buy an EFI setup. or just sell and put an average cheaper Q jet on it.

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Old 03-24-2020, 11:53 AM
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congratulations on winning the Pontiac lottery.

I agree with others, leave it EXACTLY as-is, and sell it.

Do some research before listing or selling it though, those fetch some major cash right now!
(I wouldn't try to get absolute top dollar, but try to not cut yourself short)

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Old 03-24-2020, 02:11 PM
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Use a 77-79 Pontiac QJet. It has APT which helps with the alcohol in the fuel near idle. Sell that rare one.Good luck !

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Old 03-24-2020, 02:23 PM
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Yep the 77-79 are good units....

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Old 03-24-2020, 06:39 PM
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1969GPSJ 1969GPSJ is offline
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Just a quick update, the carb number on the body, as previously noted is stamped 7040273, and to the right is the stamped
WC above the 1270 date code. Base shows a 7037174 cast in the circle at the driver's side rear of the carb. Top is stamped upside down on the choke side with a very, very hard to read 38740. It definitely looks complete and correct for a 7040273 1970 4 speed Ram Air engine, base on the information from this forum and my research.

I have absolutely no earthly idea how this carburetor ended up on my 428 powered GP.
I have had my GP for about 40 years, this engine came from a 68 GP - and is a 4 bolt, big valve (16 casting heads) YH. My car can never be 100% original for a variety of reasons, so I am in the process doing a frame-off resto-mod, with preservation and strong, reliable, streetable, and oddly comfortable performance being my goal.

Obviously with me doing a resto-mod, this is way more valuable to someone wishing to have a correct matching carburetor for their restoration, than it is to me.

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Old 03-24-2020, 07:40 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Casting number for airhorn is on the underside (has to be removed)
It is unique to R/A
Can usually tell from above with a good close up picture of the well around the accelerator pump shaft area. And tip of the accelerator pump shaft.
But IF it can come apart easily - probably best to remove airhorn and take a picture of the casting number on the underside *to maximize profits* & *minimize any doubts of buyers/bidders*

If the main body does not have a strait out vacuum port stem on passenger side front of carb - for an automatic transmission modulator valve hook-up ,,, then that is a great sign that it has never been through a mass remanufacturer.
And highly increases the chances of it being virgin components.

You have the right casting number baseplate, but the general casting number is not entirely unique.
The R/A units have different machining.
A picture looking at it from the gasket mating surface (carb-to-intake) can usually verify if R/A.

And of course airbleed holes in the primary throttle blades - but those are easily replicable.
So the machining is a more important factor.

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Old 03-25-2020, 05:24 AM
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Here are a couple of pictures which should clarify what this carb is.

First is the baseplate from the intake side:


I did not previously notice the damage to the vacuum pull-off (dashpot) for the secondaries (it still worked the last time I drove the car), and I never had an underhood fire, so it makes no sense. I also noted that there are no other vacuum ports on the passenger side of the carb - other than the vacuum source for the dashpot.

2nd is the view of the carb number and the date code. the 02 of the 7040273 is blocked by the linkage part.

  #16  
Old 03-25-2020, 06:07 AM
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I really appreciate the information everyone has shared related to the collector issues regarding this carb. These concerns about this specific carburetor being potentially desirable for collector restoration needs were never really on my radar screen. I always thought this was just an average, run of the mill 1969 Pontiac Quadrajet.

The tuning, repair and overall mechanical skills associated with this carb I mastered long ago. So, if I wanted to do so, I am quite capable of completely restoring this carb to the original dichromate finish, permanantly fixing any issues with the well plugs, accelerator pump well, air bleeds, fuel passages, or any other potential issues, and then selling a restored Q-jet which would appear and function as just about brand new.
I have been building and tuning carburetors, including Rochester 2bbls, Weber IDAs. IDFs, DCOEs, DGVs, Holleys, Solexs, Mikunis, Carters, Quadrajets, etc. (oddly no motocraft, ever) , including re-bushing and plating the Quadrajets since the late '70s.

This specific car in which this carb was installed has not been on my active project list for over 12 years, but it is now.
I just don't have a need for a carb which has collector value, when I don't need it for that purpose.
For my application, any divorced choke, basic quadrajet would have worked just fine until I switch to fuel injection.

Regardless, if there isn't a benefit for me to professionally restore this carb, then I won't.

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Old 03-25-2020, 09:57 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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The big money is unrestored.
Mostly because of rampant restamping/counterfeiting/alterations.
Bait & Switch before/after photos , etc...

Offer your services as a secondary measure - if you like.

Minor non-abrasive cleaning
Replace the choke pull off -- if you have an original Black&White Plastic RP unit
Put 20-30 pictures on your for sale post .

Its genuine top to bottom
Don't expect big money to take your words or wisdom - do the pictures emphasizing the R/A particulars and stampings/casting #s .
So they can consult with their own guru or use their own expertise.

I don't know what they bring today, but real McCoys always do well.
Date code won't work for everybody - but other than that you are golden.

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Old 03-25-2020, 03:59 PM
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Any recommendations on the choke pull-off dashpot to find an original black and white one?

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Old 03-26-2020, 01:02 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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If you don't have a stash of old Qjets to grab one from ... nope.
They are sort of a prized item also.

Hit the internet searches - might buy a whole carb cheap to get one from it ?
68 and 69 , early'ish 70
You have some wiggle room to enhance its overall value perception.
The right CPO in working order would make it Full-Monte


Or an old used metal version from later series.


Think they have a repop in solid white plastic.

Just something to where its complete with all linkage/hardware intact and functional , sort of thing ... at minimum.
is my suggestion. fwiw

Melted is not the best look
A hole where it belongs doesn't look good either

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Old 03-26-2020, 01:23 PM
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I agree that I need to replace the CPO - esp. since the one on the carb looks terrible. But since my supply of extra carbs is long gone (and most of my others even then had metal CPOs - given what I was doing with my Q-jets at the time), it looks like I will go with a current production plastic CPO. I think the answer for the wider collector community to the black/white CPO question is a 3d printed reproduction. I was just pretty surprised that there aren't any reproduction sources for a part that is arguably a frequently replaced (due to failure or age) item.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
If you don't have a stash of old Qjets to grab one from ... nope.
They are sort of a prized item also.

Hit the internet searches - might buy a whole carb cheap to get one from it ?
68 and 69 , early'ish 70
You have some wiggle room to enhance its overall value perception.
The right CPO in working order would make it Full-Monte


Or an old used metal version from later series.


Think they have a repop in solid white plastic.

Just something to where its complete with all linkage/hardware intact and functional , sort of thing ... at minimum.
is my suggestion. fwiw

Melted is not the best look
A hole where it belongs doesn't look good either

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