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Old 02-05-2020, 06:47 PM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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Question New engine won t start

I ve got a rebuilt 455 that won t start. Got fuel and spark. Lifters adjusted with intake off, so valves should be right. Installed dizzy with engine on comp. Stroke. Put balancer on zero. Rotor pointing towards #1 plug wire on cap. Firing order confirmed. Counterclockwise.. it doesn t even cough or spit !. What have i missed ? One ? Where should vac advance be pointing since that affects rotor to base orientation. Tks

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Old 02-05-2020, 06:56 PM
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Not being critical, you need to back up and reevaluate. If you have fuel and spark, and the valves are right, you'll get a bang. Maybe at the wrong time (distributor off), but you'll get something. One of the things you've crossed off the list isn't right yet.

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Old 02-05-2020, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott65 View Post
Not being critical, you need to back up and reevaluate. If you have fuel and spark, and the valves are right, you'll get a bang. Maybe at the wrong time (distributor off), but you'll get something. One of the things you've crossed off the list isn't right yet.
Agree

...Verify Fuel,and Spark to the plug, not coil wire (if equipped)
I’d work on #1 cylinder, verify everything, including dizzy install. Vacuum advance can location will change where #1 is on the cap relative to diagrams, but #1 is where the rotor points, just past TDC ...on compression stroke.

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Old 02-06-2020, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD View Post
Agree

...Verify Fuel,and Spark to the plug, not coil wire (if equipped)
I’d work on #1 cylinder, verify everything, including dizzy install. Vacuum advance can location will change where #1 is on the cap relative to diagrams, but #1 is where the rotor points, just BEFORE TDC ...on compression stroke.
Whoops


Also when working only on #1 cylinder, if all is well in your checks, but low compression...your cam timing could be off.

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Old 02-07-2020, 06:31 PM
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Having the same issue, taking notes and watching to see what you find. Keep us updated please.

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Old 02-09-2020, 08:41 AM
panhead59 panhead59 is offline
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See post #40

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Old 02-10-2020, 08:18 PM
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Proper distributor wiring? Remember Pontiacs spin the opposite direction from Chevrolet

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Old 02-12-2020, 06:01 PM
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Default Pertronix "No-Start" is no surprise to me!

I have had issues more than just a few times in the past with Pertronix and "no-start". When I first call the Pertronix Customer Service line a few years ago, I was told that the Pertronix unit was only generating a dwell angle ON CRANKING as low as 7 degrees, which is usually not enough dwell to start a Pontiac with a standard distributor baseplate upgraded to a new breakerless setup.

I removed the Pertronix equipped distributor and set up a standard point distributor at a near 30 degree angle as needed.

Varoom! I've never looked back despite several of my fellow Ponti-Yackers successfully running Pertronix. I believe the point is to eliminate the points, but I'd rather be on the side of the road with my long screw driver and screw setter replacing 20 dollar points (Advance Autozone, O'Reilly's etc) than a faulty electronic, and in my opinion, overpriced unit from a non-mainstream autoparts vendor !

Try it, I might just be right!!

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Old 02-05-2020, 07:02 PM
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Agree with that. Getting fuel into the cylinder? Perhaps it needs a richer mix to start?

George

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Old 02-05-2020, 07:36 PM
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Compression test with all plugs out?

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Old 02-05-2020, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac View Post
Compression test with all plugs out?
It would be a good idea to check this. Most of the new no-starts I run into are an issue with valves not closing all the way. You didn't mention if you have an adjustable valvetrain or the stock-non-adjustable stuff the engine came with. During a typical rebuild, reusing the old valves, cutting and grinding the seats, gets the stem height all messed-up. You end up with valves with a too long effective length. Tightening the rockers up to the 20 ft. lb. stock setting for the bottle neck studs results with some or all the valves held open just a little bit. No-start is the result. Try to evaluate and fix the situation, whatever it is as quickly as possible. It's very bad for the rings, and hard on the camshaft to crank a long time without starting that first time for break-in. Good luck with it.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:29 PM
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Just verifying you're on the compression stroke for the distributor drop in by the finger over the hole method may help provide clues... No blow, start over on the valve train adjustment.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:35 PM
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35 yrs ago I had no start,timing on no. 1 Exhaust valve. I learned.

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Old 02-07-2020, 10:53 PM
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Ok. I had time to readjust valves today.. no change, still. Not even a sputter. Sat. I ll start with comp. Check then start from scratch, again, with timing. I got a new petronix 3 modual in the mail today. I ll install it if i keep running into deadends. I ll get a new rototr and cap also. Wires and plugs already new. I ll keep ya ll posted. Tks for hanging in there with me. Got 12.47 v to dist. By the way

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Old 02-08-2020, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead59 View Post
Ok. I had time to readjust valves today.. no change, still. Not even a sputter. Sat. I ll start with comp. Check then start from scratch, again, with timing. I got a new petronix 3 modual in the mail today. I ll install it if i keep running into deadends. I ll get a new rototr and cap also. Wires and plugs already new. I ll keep ya ll posted. Tks for hanging in there with me. Got 12.47 v to dist. By the way
Are you sure you have that voltage to the distributor while cranking? It could literally be your ignition switch or a bad wire that is suppose to provide power while cranking. You can get the starter turning the motor but not be getting distibutor voltage, even if you get voltage with ignition switch in the run/ on position I would run a wire directly from battery to coil while cranking. Very simple check.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:43 PM
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your timing is way retarded. confirm with a timing light, or just start moving the dist. clockwise.

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Old 02-08-2020, 01:54 PM
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Is this a flat tappet cam or hyd roller? Posts like this always worry me about the cam going flat.
Are you getting zero sputter or pop from the engine??

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Old 02-06-2020, 12:27 AM
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Adjustable valve train by the way. I think u guys are on to something with valve adjustment issue. It s the only thing i haven't dbl ckecked. Mainly cuzz i adjusted them with intake off, looking right at the cam lobes for low spot. I still could've got it wrong i guess. I'LL READJUST and let you know. I'd bet ya'll r correct though, because it doesn't really sound right when it's spinning over , now that i think about it. Tks.

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Old 02-06-2020, 12:45 AM
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Are you sure it’s number 1 and not number 2. Just saying .....asking for a friend?

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Old 02-08-2020, 04:48 PM
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Talking

Tom s- i did what u suggested with timing light. It dies light up when i move dizzy. Ta man- flat tappet cam. I did reuse cam since it only had about 1500 miles on it. (Long story) I had machinist look it over. He said it looked good. Timing chain installed with both shafts "mark" set at 12 oclock. Dmac- yes i have 9.75-10 to dizzy while cranking and spark to plug while cranking. I'm getting frustrated to say the least. I keep going back and redoing everything i know of and following up on all posts (suggestions). Anybody else have any ideas or ckecks i can do ? Heck, i'm ready to offer a reward ! Rotor and cap r ready to be picked up at store but i doubt thats it as i have spark at plugs
.

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