[NeighborsComplaint]

Are all 4 tube, 1-5/8" headers created equal? I currently have Flowtec's (Holley brand) on the car and am happy with the fit and leak free operation. The ceramic coating is getting a bit faded and I saw a set of Hooker Competition 1-5/8" header w. ceramic coating at a great price. What can I expect from Hooker in terms of fit? Any measurable difference in performance over FlowTec?

On the subject of carburetion, I currently have a 770 Street Avenger that has always been touchy with regard to return to/consistent idle speed. I come to the conclusion the throttle plates are not all concentric with the venturis and bind. I can place my thumb against the throttle lever and make the idle drop to where I want it and have tried heavier springs which only make the car difficult to drive. I could probable identify the offending plate or plates and go through the agony of removing the staked screws and repositioning the plates, but I don't care to.

I was going to put a standard Holley 750 that I bought recently on it but just happened to see a QuickFuel (Brawler) 750 Double pumper so cheap it just grabbed my attention. At one time I ran a bigger cam (Comp 292 Magnum) with a single plane intake and an 850 double pumper. That double pumper was just explosive from a throttle response standpoint.

How do you think a 750 double pumper would perform compared to the vacuum secondaries? The car has a 2500 stall convertor, 355 gears and a 234/242/.488/.505/108 cam in it.

[Formulajones]

One set of Hooker super comp 4 tube headers I've run on a Pontiac were for a 2nd gen F-body with d-port heads. They were 1 5/8 tube and fit perfectly. Performed well, leak free and never had any hassle with them, worked fine with the stock starter and oil filter was easy to get to. These were made back in the 80's however, don't know if anything has changed with hooker and that particular design. Still have them sitting on the mezzanine.

On the A-Body dad runs Hooker 2" super comps for round port heads which are a tight fit. Needs a mini starter, regular starter doesn't fit. Oil filter is easy to get at though.

[Speargun]

I just bolted a set of Hooker Super Comps on my 400. They're from the late 80's - early 90's, but they look like they would have no trouble clearing a factory starter and the seem to be tucked in next to the engine ok.
The driver's side collector is about 4" shorter than the passenger side.

[Tom Vaught]

The screws, and the staking, on the Holley Throttle Shafts do not need to be removed.
Typically there is enough room to lightly loosen the screws and be able to re-seat the
blades properly in the throttle bores.

Then you should be able to have a smooth throttle opening and closing without digging
into the bores of the carb. The staking is just there to keep the screw from dropping into the engine.
The blades are held tight by the screw torque.

Tom V.

[kyle_blake]

hi, i have the same valve covers as yours!

nice, you can cook some hot dogs on them !

hey where did you get those plastic wire holder clips?

may i have a link where i can buy them, i really like them!

[Speargun]

Originally Posted by kyle_blake

hi, i have the same valve covers as yours!

nice, you can cook some hot dogs on them !

hey where did you get those plastic wire holder clips?

may i have a link where i can buy them, i really like them!

Those were the cheapest VC's I could find. LOL

The wire separators are MSD brand and snap together. Some of the other brands use a screw & nut.

Ignition Wire Looms and Separators