[Cliff R]

Waste of time/funds IMHO. You only need one or the other, a good baffled pan or a windage tray. We quit using windage trays here quite a while ago, mostly because of clearance issues and having to shim the aftermarket stuff, and having to custom fit the tube/guide for the dip stick, plus clearance issues at the main cap and stud or cap screw, etc.

Much easier to just buy a good Morroso or Canton pan and forget the windage tray all together.....IMHO.....Cliff

[Steve C.]

From Dave Bisschop....

"Our back to back dyno tests on a 462ci 500+hp 5500rpm street engine showed an honest 10+hp gain when the Canton Windage tray combined with the crank scraper were installed when compared to running just a baffled pan."

Side note: Testing with both items installed. Gain at peak power rpm, it would be less at lower rpm on the street. Ask yourself is the limited gain on the street worth the potential installation hassles.


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[Burningbird]

The problem with bying a new Moroso or Canton oilpan is that I have alredy bought a RPC-pan, oilpump, pickup, complete dipstick and crank scraper from Butler. With a new pan i also have to by a new pickup and dipstick again. If the gain with a windage tray is less then 10hp I don't think it's worth the effort, and I will just run my cheap baffled oilpan and the crank scraper instead. Thanks for the advice Cliff and Steve!

[Steve C.]

Make sure your crank scraper is properly fitted to the crank. Proper distance and contour is important. Careful fitting to ensure proper clearances to the crankshaft.


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[aasmilyy]

Can you update how it goes with your Engine build.

[HWYSTR455]

The real issue with windage when using a long stroke crank is that it can 'suspend' the oil in the crank case, and run the sump dry, dropping oil psi.

So it's not 'really' about the hp loss or gain.


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[ponjohn]

Do you put a spacer on the opposite side of the oil pan as the scraper to make the pan even?

[HWYSTR455]

No need if you use thick gaskets and/or RTV. The pan should torque down that minor amount.

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[Burningbird]

Originally Posted by aasmilyy

Can you update how it goes with your Engine build.

Sorry to say that niether the engine or car is finished yet. I must do the lifter bore modification before I assemble the engine and I have not find the time to do so. Hopefully I will get the engine up running after the summer. I currently waiting to get my 389/400ci back from the machine shop so I can get my -60 Bonneville out on the road before the summer.

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by Burningbird

Sorry to say that niether the engine or car is finished yet. I must do the lifter bore modification before I assemble the engine and I have not find the time to do so. Hopefully I will get the engine up running after the summer. I currently waiting to get my 389/400ci back from the machine shop so I can get my -60 Bonneville out on the road before the summer.

Don't fret on the lifter bore mod. It's really not that hard to do. I use a 1/4" ball burr and start about 1/4" below the lifter bore oil hole, and pull the burr up to the oil hole. Once you have a path started, it's easy to keep following it as you go up and down. I get it about .050"-.060" deep and call it good. You should be able to do all of them in 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.

[Burningbird]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Don't fret on the lifter bore mod. It's really not that hard to do. I use a 1/4" ball burr and start about 1/4" below the lifter bore oil hole, and pull the burr up to the oil hole. Once you have a path started, it's easy to keep following it as you go up and down. I get it about .050"-.060" deep and call it good. You should be able to do all of them in 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.

Thanks Paul, I will do the mod as you described. I really hope that the engine is ready to run on the test stand after the summer. I just have to get the engine for my -60 Bonneville finished first.