[SRR]

Originally Posted by panhead59

Tom s- i did what u suggested with timing light. It dies light up when i move dizzy. Ta man- flat tappet cam. I did reuse cam since it only had about 1500 miles on it. (Long story) I had machinist look it over. He said it looked good. Timing chain installed with both shafts "mark" set at 12 oclock. Dmac- yes i have 9.75-10 to dizzy while cranking and spark to plug while cranking. I'm getting frustrated to say the least. I keep going back and redoing everything i know of and following up on all posts (suggestions). Anybody else have any ideas or ckecks i can do ? Heck, i'm ready to offer a reward ! Rotor and cap r ready to be picked up at store but i doubt thats it as i have spark at plugs
.

My memory might not be right, but is this OK?

[panhead59]

Yeah its right. I dbl ckecked since it had been awhile. Crank at 12, cam at 6 is ok, ya just gotta set up dizzy on #6.

[panhead59]

Great quote by the way. How true !

[dataway]

Might sound like a bit of a cop out ... but in general, any engine I have ever put together, if it doesn't fire in the first 5 seconds ... I know I've made a major error somewhere. They will almost always make some kind of explosions if you are anywhere close to doing things right. If it's actually completely DOA ... then it's back to step ONE and check everything, the God of fire will try very hard to make noise if things are anywhere close to right.

[steve25]

It's high time to get a can of starting fluid and see if she atleast kicks!

[panhead59]

See post #40

[grivera]

Good news that you seem to have spark. It sounds like dizzy 180 out. Also, as mentioned previously if this is a flat tappet cam that hasn't been broken-in yet your chances of wiping it have gone way up as all the cranking wipes the cam break-in lube off lobes.

[panhead59]

Cam was already broken in. Reused old cam that only had 1500 miles on it. Machinist looked it over, and said it looked fine. Still no start. A few kicks and spudders but nothing serious. Going to store now to get new rotor n cap. Those r only things that aren't new.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by panhead59

Cam was already broken in. Reused old cam that only had 1500 miles on it. Machinist looked it over, and said it looked fine. Still no start. A few kicks and spudders but nothing serious. Going to store now to get new rotor n cap. Those r only things that aren't new.

Please don't take offense to this, but can you explain how you confirmed compression stroke for #1 cylinder?

If working by yourself, you can put a cork in #1 spark plug hole and hand crank the engine - the cork will shoot out of the plug hole as it reaches TDC compression stroke. Or, pull off valve cover and watch rockers - both valves will be closed (push rod side down, lifters on base of cam lobe) followed by exhaust opening.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by grivera

Please don't take offense to this, but can you explain how you confirmed compression stroke for #1 cylinder?

If working by yourself, you can put a cork in #1 spark plug hole and hand crank the engine - the cork will shoot out of the plug hole as it reaches TDC compression stroke.

Agreed.

Originally Posted by grivera

Or, pull off valve cover and watch rockers - both valves will be closed (push rod side down, lifters on base of cam lobe) followed by exhaust opening.

People need to watch the valve action as the crank is turning, because right at TDC Exhaust, the valves are on overlap. Given a little lifter bleed-down, the valves are closed or nearly-closed.

If the exhaust valve is just closing as the crank turns to TDC and maybe you see the intake starting to open, you're on overlap. If the intake valve closes, and then both valves stay closed as the crank is turned to TDC, you're on the compression stroke.

[panhead59]

No luck with new rotor and cap. Then i put in new petronix. Still have strong spark at #1 cyl. But does not sound like it has fire. No offense taken. At this point, nothing even comes close to offensive !!!! No worries about that !!! I'm getting comp. Stroke with wife spinning engine with key. My Finger over "1 hole till it gets blown off. Strong comp. At this point mark on balancer is coming up to pointer on timing cover. Maybe 1- 1 1/2" before zero. I get it a little closer by hand shooting for 12 deg. Or so. Then i check rotor and its dead on #1 plug wire on cap. I'll try looking at valve movement with cover off. Any other suggestions are much appreciated. I've done everything i know of at least 100 times !!!😂😂😂😂

[grivera]

Do you get at least 10 volts while cranking as well?

[panhead59]

Yes i do.

[73 TRANSAM]

Did u degree the cam? The cam or crank gear keyway could be off so this needs to be verified sometimes. Good luck.

[panhead59]

No i did not degree cam. Installed by timing marks. Both at 12 oclock

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by panhead59

No i did not degree cam. Installed by timing marks. Both at 12 oclock

Both at 12 o"clock makes it 180 off doesn't it? Usually put crank at 12 and the cam at 6.

[Scott65]

Either way works, as long as you time the distributor for the method you used.

[panhead59]

At this point, would it be prudent to spin oil pump with drill again ?

[mgarblik]

When you say you have a strong spark at the spark plugs........is that with your wife actually in the crank position of the ignition key with the starter turning the engine? Or is that with the ignition switch in the run position and you turning the distributor by hand in a testing situation? Wondering if you are losing your power to the ignition system during crank and it is coming back when you go to run. I believe Petronix needs a full 12 volts to the coil in both key positions, bypassing the ballast wire. Have you looked at the plugs during all this cranking and testing? They should be wet by now, at the very least smell like gas. Make sure you don't have a huge giant vacuum leak somewhere, like the power brake booster or the PCV fitting. A small leak wouldn't keep it from starting.

[panhead59]

Yes plugs are wet. Its getting gas. Ballast wire has been changed
It has ran with petronic before engine rebuild. Spark to plugs is with wife spinning engine. I'll check in run position. I guess pull all plugs, tape #1 plug to ground, and spin motor by hand ?