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Old 11-17-2008, 11:28 PM
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Default Replacing Body Mounts

I'd like to replace the body mounts on my '67 Lemans convertible. I'm not a body guy, by any means, and probably know just enough to be dangerous.

I'm thinking I can use two or three floor jacks and a long 4X4 under the rocker panel and do 1 side at a time. I'm planning on just jacking up far enough to get the old ones out and then up just a bit farther to get the new ones in.

My question is: Do I have to remove the front clip? Just loosen the bottom of the fenders?

I already have the mounts (stock rubber type), and new original style bolts.

I've already tried some bolts....three out of three came loose without spinning the cage nuts........

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Old 11-17-2008, 11:49 PM
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I used this method when I replaced the mounts on my '64 GTO. All of the bolts came out and were reused, I used the new flat washers that came with the urethane mounts. I plan on putting new rubber mounts in my '64 Tempest in the next week or so using this same method.

One floor jack and a long 4X4 was enough to do the job.

I took the steering column loose from the box at the coupler, just took two of the bolts out and left the rubber coupler on the box.

Took off the fan shroud too. No need to remove the front clip or loosen the fenders, just loosen up/remove the core support to frame bolts. The front and rear bumpers with the brackets do need to come off though.

I left all of the wheels on the car and put each wheel up on a stack of large wood blocks so I could get underneath to do the work.

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Old 11-17-2008, 11:55 PM
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when i did mine i did the same thing with one floor jack and a 4x4 as well and replaced the bolts since the threads were a little corroded so i went down to the local ace auto and got nice grade 8 bolts the same length.

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Old 11-18-2008, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b-man View Post
I used this method when I replaced the mounts on my '64 GTO. All of the bolts came out and were reused, I used the new flat washers that came with the urethane mounts. I plan on putting new rubber mounts in my '64 Tempest in the next week or so using this same method.

One floor jack and a long 4X4 was enough to do the job.

I took the steering column loose from the box at the coupler, just took two of the bolts out and left the rubber coupler on the box.

Took off the fan shroud too. No need to remove the front clip or loosen the fenders, just loosen up/remove the core support to frame bolts. The front and rear bumpers do need to come off though.

I left all of the wheels on the car and put each wheel up on a stack of large wood blocks so I could get underneath to do the work.
So you lift the whole one side of the body off in your method Looking to do the same here,
then when done how much body lift did you get

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Old 11-18-2008, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67 Lamnas View Post
I'd like to replace the body mounts on my '67 Lemans convertible. I'm not a body guy, by any means, and probably know just enough to be dangerous.

I'm thinking I can use two or three floor jacks and a long 4X4 under the rocker panel and do 1 side at a time. I'm planning on just jacking up far enough to get the old ones out and then up just a bit farther to get the new ones in.

My question is: Do I have to remove the front clip? Just loosen the bottom of the fenders?

I already have the mounts (stock rubber type), and new original style bolts.

I've already tried some bolts....three out of three came loose without spinning the cage nuts........
Take pics and post that will help others that will be doing this in the future, add any tips too
I look forward from hearing from you im going to be doing this to my 66 Goat soon and was wondering about how Thanks, want to do a frame off but not yet still collecting parts
Mike

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Old 11-18-2008, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaloMedic View Post
So you lift the whole one side of the body off in your method Looking to do the same here,
then when done how much body lift did you get
I really didn't check to see how much higher the body sat after installing the new mounts, but I'm sure it wasn't much more than a quarter inch or so.

The reason I installed the new mounts in the first place was because I was going to send it to a chassis shop for a 10-point cage, I wanted new mounts installed before the work started. However by the time the shop was ready to take my car I had changed my mind, good thing because I drive the car on the street now and I like having a full interior.

I also took the opportunity to shift the front of the body over a little while doing the mounts, my front bumper never fit without a stack of washers between one of the bumper brackets and the frame. I just pried the body over using a 1/2" thick 2' long piece of steel bar between the inner rocker and the frame.

Everything lines up a lot better now up front, the car had been worked over at a body shop many moons ago (driver's rocker replaced) so I guess the body must have shifted over on the frame a bit.

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Old 12-08-2008, 11:22 PM
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One more thing to remove before jacking up the body.

The bolt that ties the front inner fender to the frame, just behind the upper A-arm.

When I did the mounts on my GTO I didn't need to remove it, because there were no front inner fenders on the car at that time.

It's now time to do this mount job on my Tempest, I was sitting at work today thinking about it so I thought I'd add this little detail.


  #8  
Old 07-16-2009, 09:01 PM
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Default Body mount replacement pictures, from my LS3 into '64 Tempest thread

New Energy Suspension polyurethane body mounts. I used a pair of new reproduction core support mounts made of rubber, poly mounts were not available for those.



I jacked up the passenger side of the Tempest body first after removing all the bolts on that side and loosening all of the bolts on the other side. The front of the body still came up before the rear even with the jacking point this far back. Most of the front end sheetmetal (core support, driver's side fender and inner fender still in place) was removed as you can see here, it's not at all necessary to do that to replace the body mounts.



Old mount at the rear of the car.



Two old mounts at the front below the firewall. The car doesn't need to come quite this far off the frame to remove them.



A look at the center frame mount area with the old mount removed, right next to the seat belt mounting point.



The bolt holding the front inner fender to the frame needs to come out on both sides (driver's side shown), this important step is not mentioned in the body mount installation instruction sheet. I took the brake hose bracket loose from the frame as well.



The steering column needs to be taken loose at the rag joint and loosened under the dash so you can pull it back about 1" or a little less. Another important thing that is not mentioned in the instructions.



Old mounts removed, in pretty sorry shape. The rearmost ones (seen at the left) were compressed less than the ones closer to the center and front of the car. The original body bolts were in good shape and after some work with a wire brush they were reused after coating the threads with copper anti-seize compound.



New reproduction 3/8" steel fuel line from Performance Years. They all come with a soft bend in the middle for shipment that's easily straightened out before installation.



All straight and ready for installation. The 1964 -'67 A-body cars came with 5/16" line from the factory and that is the size you'll see in the PY catalog. Just ask them and they will do it in 3/8" for you by special order.



After finishing the passenger side mount installation and leaving the bolts loose I jacked up the driver's side. I jacked up the body a few more inches so I could snake the new fuel line into place. After looking things over I decided that feeding the line through the rear wheel well opening would work without having to bend up the line.



Feeding it in.



This shot gives you an idea of where it has to go near the rear.



Here you can see it running towards the front of the car. The 3/8" line clips right into the three 5/16" factory clips on the frame making for a neat and easy installation.



Rather than run the line through the front frame rail and out the front crossmember like the factory would have I bent the line so it would hug the firewall and head upward to meet up with the LS3 fuel rail on the driver's side.



After I finished up the bending I slid the protective sleeving that was originally provided to keep the line from chafing inside the front frame rail over the bends. This will help to insulate the line and keep it from rubbing where it comes close to the frame and firewall. The fuel line is tucked in nice and tight so it will clear my column shift linkage.



Here's why you need to take the steering column loose at the rag joint, the body needed to move upward pretty far to get the mounts and especially the fuel line in.



After putting all the mounts in I checked the body to make sure it was sitting evenly on the frame from side to side. I loosened up all the mounts and used a big prying tool (tire iron) between the inner rocker and the frame rail to get it even before tightening everything up. It was pretty easy to shift it around on the poly mounts.

The body now sits about 1/4" lower on the chassis, the poly mounts are a little thinner than the old rubber mounts.

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Old 07-16-2009, 09:58 PM
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Bart is there a reason why you didn't put the fuel line inside the frame?It was a B%tch but I did it,I had to use a rubber grommet where the line comes out because the line almost touches the top of the opening.
I used those bodymounts also.Any problems with squeeks?

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Old 07-16-2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue '66 View Post
Bart is there a reason why you didn't put the fuel line inside the frame?It was a B%tch but I did it,I had to use a rubber grommet where the line comes out because the line almost touches the top of the opening.
I used those bodymounts also.Any problems with squeeks?
The goofy fuel line routing was done due to my engine choice. The LS3 fuel rail inlet is up high on the driver's side, hence the 'incorrect' fuel line routing.



Not sure about body mount squeaks on this car, have not driven it yet as it's a long ongoing project at this point. I have the same mounts in my GTO, but there is no floor insulation or carpet and a loud exhaust system. I can't hear them squeaking, but the mechanical noise level is a bit high inside the car.

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Old 07-16-2009, 10:57 PM
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That engine looks great!I thought maybe I missed something that works "better" on the fuel line thing.It's gonna be a while before I am driving mine also.

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:52 AM
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GREAT PICS

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Old 11-13-2011, 10:52 AM
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i love Barts tutorials!!!
thanks for posting, this will be very handy!

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Old 11-14-2011, 04:21 AM
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When you re-installed the bolts (i.e what torque specs) ?

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Old 11-14-2011, 04:22 AM
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I see you used a Vitage Air sytem? Any thoughts on that install ? Was your car factory A/C ?

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Old 11-14-2011, 04:23 AM
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Excellent write-up BTW ! ! !

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Old 08-07-2019, 02:53 PM
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I'm bringing this back up to the top as I'm now have to change my 66's body mounts. Others will more than likely be having this same problem in the future. If they're not doing a frame off this will help them immensely. And save some head banging on how to do it with fewer problems.

The body mounts are the reason the front of my driveshaft hits the tunnel if I have someone riding in the back seat. A friend that previously owned a GTO told me he had had the same problem. My only worry is getting the bolts out. I know of one so far that is a problem as the cage nut is out of the holder and the bolt is just hanging there. This I found back a year after I bought the car. It is what it is.

Hopefully in a week or 2 all will be changed, along with the clutch and main rear seal on the engine. And yes, it will be the Viton one piece seal. No rope seal for me.... I have enough of a mess to clean up and I don't want to go thru that again. It's also the reason for the clutch change.

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Old 08-12-2019, 04:03 PM
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Lucky. Guys. I have -77 GP that has 4 Body polts stuck and broken inside. Had to do Frame off restoration now. Need to cut open all the places.

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Old 08-12-2019, 05:12 PM
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Another way that helped me is, My car was clean all the bushing bolts came out east except to left front. I had to remove the wheel house and get it that way.
I did one at a time, besides the jack, I use a porta power with the jaw that spreads open. I went with solid aluminum, when I needed extra room I put the jaw between the floor and frame. There is a porta power kit at harbor freight for $99.00 then get the coupon off if you need one.

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Old 08-13-2019, 12:05 PM
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Does anyone that just did a body bushing replacement for their 64 to 67 A-body have 3" bottom bushings for the mounts at the front below the firewall in their kit... at least 4 of them? I believe the top would be 2".

The ones I just got from Ames are all 2 inch, the same as for the core support. Is it me or has something changed we don't know about. All of my body bushing are still the originals from the factory in 1966.

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