[bulletpruf]

Fellas -

I have some of the so-called 4 speed bars that connected rear control arms on 4 speed GTO's. I was thinking about using them on my 68, which has a stout 455/TH400 combo and a 3.90 geared 10 bolt. Also have aftermarket tubular control arms out back. Has stock rear springs, BIlstein shocks.

I was also thinking about adding a rear swaybar. I have a stock swaybar up front, but was thinking about going with a larger one.

What would be your recommendation for a car that's street driven? Should I change the setup at all when I take it to the track?

Thanks,

Scott

[David Jones]

Stock replacement springs all around, Bilsteins, manual trans braces, BMR Fab tubular rear uppers and lowers, BMR Fab 7/8" rear bar, 78 WS6 T/A front bar and steering box. Energy Suspension bushings. I don't drag race but find that my car rides and drives nicely and goes around a corner reasonably well.

[steve25]

Just note that a bigger stiffer bar installed on the front will induce less weight transfer when you punch it and in turn even less traction!

[NeighborsComplaint]

I went UMI on the rear of my '71. Upper and lower tubular control arms, poly bushings, Addco swaybar and OEM style control arm mount braces. I duplicated the this on the front (Addco swaybar was a F&R kit) and a set of Global West clone front upper and lower control arms. I used Moog OEM replacement springs all around and KYB shocks. I also added all new Moog front end parts and a jeep Grand Cherokee steering box conversion. Ride quality is very good and handling and straight line stability like night and day to original.

I am not a drag racer and assume someone more serious than I would remove the rear sway bar and loosen the front one for better weight transfer. I still get plenty of front end rise the way it is and find that it plants the rear tires just as hard with the rear swaybar than it did without.

[bulletpruf]

Thanks for all the input. I'll source a rear swaybar and a larger front bar. May end up upgrading the steering box as well.

Figure I'll change the setup for drag racing just to see what kind of times I can run (would love to dip into the 11's) and then revert to a more street-friendly setup.

FYI - I do have replacement springs front and rear; don't recall where I bought them, but car sits like a 4x4 now. I'll swap in some used stock springs out back and trim the front springs so it sits level.

Scott

[Old Goat Racer]

I have this on my 70 race car. Planning on buying a street kit for my 65

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

[Formulajones]

I've always enjoyed working with some of the stock parts and seeing how well I could make them work with the primary goal being street friendly, and work at the track at the same time.

We have 2 A-bodies setup basically the same way. Stock rear springs, stock boxed lower control arms, along with the stock upper control arm braces (which I think is what you were referring to when you said 4 speed bars) they were factory equipment on my chevelle with F-41 suspension which coincidentally is an automatic car. I added them to dad's GTO.
I use the no-hop bars on both car to move the instant center and replaced the upper bars with double adjustable units to play with pinion angle.
Stock GM rear sway bars on both cars.

Up front is custom made springs by Coil Spring Specialties, stock front sway bars with frame bushings honed and lubed to allow the bar to move more freely up and down, yet still keeping the links hooked up for better street manors. Then use adjustable shocks at all four corners. Both cars are left at 90/10 front and 50/50 rear.

Both cars are 99% street cars first, and fun drag strip cars second, and they drive and handle the curvy mountain roads just fine. They aren't corner rippers, especially with pizza cutter sized tires up front, but they certainly don't give you the feeling you're going to lose control. They both are also some of the best riding and best behaved couple of cars in the stable, and very comfortable at soaking up the road irregularities, yet they wheelie and cut 1.5x 60 foot times. Both have been deep 11's with this setup, and dad is looking to push that even further at the next track outing in November.

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I've always enjoyed working with some of the stock parts and seeing how well I could make them work with the primary goal being street friendly, and work at the track at the same time.

We have 2 A-bodies setup basically the same way. Stock rear springs, stock boxed lower control arms, along with the stock upper control arm braces (which I think is what you were referring to when you said 4 speed bars) they were factory equipment on my chevelle with F-41 suspension which coincidentally is an automatic car. I added them to dad's GTO.
I use the no-hop bars on both car to move the instant center and replaced the upper bars with double adjustable units to play with pinion angle.
Stock GM rear sway bars on both cars.

Up front is custom made springs by Coil Spring Specialties, stock front sway bars with frame bushings honed and lubed to allow the bar to move more freely up and down, yet still keeping the links hooked up for better street manors. Then use adjustable shocks at all four corners. Both cars are left at 90/10 front and 50/50 rear.

Both cars are 99% street cars first, and fun drag strip cars second, and they drive and handle the curvy mountain roads just fine. They aren't corner rippers, especially with pizza cutter sized tires up front, but they certainly don't give you the feeling you're going to lose control. They both are also some of the best riding and best behaved couple of cars in the stable, and very comfortable at soaking up the road irregularities, yet they wheelie and cut 1.5x 60 foot times. Both have been deep 11's with this setup, and dad is looking to push that even further at the next track outing in November.

Thanks for the detailed input. Sounds like y'all have done your homework.

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by Old Goat Racer

I have this on my 70 race car. Planning on buying a street kit for my 65

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

Thanks for the input. Wasn't familiar with the company, but they produce some nice stuff.

[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by bulletpruf

Thanks for the input. Wasn't familiar with the company, but they produce some nice stuff.

I have the Spohn version of that style anti-roll bar. It helps keep the car level at the track without having to use preloaded airbags. It works good on the street keeping body lean down on turns.
Check Spohns’ website around thanksgiving and Christmas. They have some pretty big discounts on all of their products around the holidays.

https://www.spohn.net/

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by TCSGTO

I have the Spohn version of that style anti-roll bar. It helps keep the car level at the track without having to use preloaded airbags. It works good on the street keeping body lean down on turns.
Check Spohns’ website around thanksgiving and Christmas. They have some pretty big discounts on all of their products around the holidays.

https://www.spohn.net/

I'll check them out.

Thanks

[Tom Vaught]

The "4 speed bars" you mentioned, Which another member posted about here: (which I think is what you were referring to when you said 4 speed bars), ........ were actually a FIX for the Manual Trans 1964 and 1965 GTOs, etc because the upper rear frame crossmember was weak in those vehicles. The parts supported the cross-member much better by being tied intoi the lower control arm forward mounting point.

Tom V.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by TCSGTO

I have the Spohn version of that style anti-roll bar. It helps keep the car level at the track without having to use preloaded airbags. It works good on the street keeping body lean down on turns.
Check Spohns’ website around thanksgiving and Christmas. They have some pretty big discounts on all of their products around the holidays.

https://www.spohn.net/

I bought Spohn parts for my '68 and have been real happy with their quality and service (and sales).

[Singleton]

I recommend these Currie Johnny Joints to replace the factory rubber upper bushings on the rear end housing. Allows more suspension articulation without binding like a poly bushing would.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...12a1/overview/

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by Singleton

I recommend these Currie Johnny Joints to replace the factory rubber upper bushings on the rear end housing. Allows more suspension articulation without binding like a poly bushing would.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...12a1/overview/

Have UMI's version, aka roto joints, in the upper perches of one rear. On our shakeout '72, have vintage Anti Hop bars, own design adj uppers, airbags, & factory swaybar w boxed lowers which have gained roto joints on each end. For my builds, non stock appearing arms or swaybars are a no no.

[Tom Vaught]

I personally gave up on keeping my vehicle original after the Muncie was swapped out and the multiple rear axles were destroyed.

Course I also had the convertible top replaced years ago and modded so that it would not tear the material at the rear hoop position.

But to each his/her own as it is YOUR vehicle.

Tom V.

[bulletpruf]

Ok, so I swapped out my Umi rear springs this weekend because the car was sitting too high. Put the stock springs back in and it settled an inch, which was fine by me.

I was also going to swap in the OEM control arm braces but they're about 1" away from fitting. The car is on drive-on lift and the suspension is loaded; should I be able to install these with the suspension unloaded?

Thanks

Scott

[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by bulletpruf

Ok, so I swapped out my Umi rear springs this weekend because the car was sitting too high. Put the stock springs back in and it settled an inch, which was fine by me.

Scott

The Chevelle guys have discovered the Pontiac A-body springs since they sit lower than the ones Chevy spec’d. It seems the lower you can get the rear on the A-bodies the better the suspension works without having to resort to relocation brackets. Lowered cars look better too, at least in my eyes.

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by bulletpruf

I was also going to swap in the OEM control arm braces but they're about 1" away from fitting. The car is on drive-on lift and the suspension is loaded; should I be able to install these with the suspension unloaded?

Sounds like you may have braces for 64-67?

[bulletpruf]

Originally Posted by Singleton

Sounds like you may have braces for 64-67?

No, I'm pretty sure I pulled them off a 68-70 parts car years ago.

Thanks