[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I am on the rich side 13.8-14.1 that's at idle in park.

Going down the road, it's 13.3-13.9.

It idles like it is a little "Sloppy" in drive at a light when warm.

I would move near 12.5 to see what happens. I would think you could rule out af mixture pretty quickly by doing this........ It's a way to see how it likes the timing there and also how the temps react? Or have you done this already? I'm just spit balling here, I'm not sure how it would effect it but it's what I would do......

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

I would move near 12.5 to see what happens. I would think you could rule out af mixture pretty quickly by doing this........ It's a way to see how it likes the timing there and also how the temps react? Or have you done this already? I'm just spit balling here, I'm not sure how it would effect it but it's what I would do......

I may try that on the mixture.

A couple of guys have said to try the timing at 14 initial, and it might "Clean" the idle up.

In the back of my mind though, I've got Jeff Kaufmann telling me "These heads don't like a lot of timing."

It can't hurt... I guess.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I may try that on the mixture.

A couple of guys have said to try the timing at 14 initial, and it might "Clean" the idle up.

In the back of my mind though, I've got Jeff Kaufmann telling me "These heads don't like a lot of timing."

It can't hurt... I guess.

Most guys on here that run the KRE heads and OLD Faithful HR run around 12° initial and 32° total mechanical with an additional 10° of vacuum advance.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

Most guys on here that run the KRE heads and OLD Faithful HR run around 12° initial and 32° total mechanical with an additional 10° of vacuum advance.

I have a "Staked" distributor that gives me 20 mechanical.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

I have a "Staked" distributor that gives me 20 mechanical.

So if you set it at 12° initial then add the 20° you get 32°total.

[69*Goat]

If I read your post correctly, you are saying that others with the same heads and cam are running 54 deg of timing.

If that is the case, I can definitely up my initial.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 69*Goat

If I read your post correctly, you are saying that others with the same heads and cam are running 54 deg of timing.

If that is the case, I can definitely up my initial.

NO!

Initial = 12°
Add 20° of mechanical Advance= 32° Mechanical timing
Add 10° of vacuum advance= 42° Total timing at cruise

[69*Goat]

Ok, that makes more sense.

That is where I'm at.

[chuckies76ta]

These KRE heads do like 32 degrees of total timing. I've had 3 sets on the dyno and ever engine has been 32 degrees total.

I usually remove the springs on the distributor and set total timing at 32 degrees. You only need to rev the engine to around 1500 to 2000 rpm. I then re-install the springs to see where initial is at. I then taylor my bushing in the distributor to match what I want for initial timing.

When it comes to adding vacuum advance you need to know what the engine is making for vacuum. There are different vacuum cans out there that operate at different amounts of vacuum. You can also taylor your vacuum amount with a stop either welded or a piece on metal.

I have mine initial at 17 degrees and mechanical at 32 degrees. I add 7 degrees on the vacuum can connected to ported vacuum.

Charles

[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

I usually remove the springs on the distributor and set total timing at 32 degrees. You only need to rev the engine to around 1500 to 2000 rpm. I then re-install the springs to see where initial is at. I then taylor my bushing in the distributor to match what I want for initial timing.

THAT'S a good suggestion! Never heard that one before. Is there a down side to doing it that way?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by chuckies76ta

These KRE heads do like 32 degrees of total timing. I've had 3 sets on the dyno and ever engine has been 32 degrees total.

I usually remove the springs on the distributor and set total timing at 32 degrees. You only need to rev the engine to around 1500 to 2000 rpm. I then re-install the springs to see where initial is at. I then taylor my bushing in the distributor to match what I want for initial timing.

When it comes to adding vacuum advance you need to know what the engine is making for vacuum. There are different vacuum cans out there that operate at different amounts of vacuum. You can also taylor your vacuum amount with a stop either welded or a piece on metal.

I have mine initial at 17 degrees and mechanical at 32 degrees. I add 7 degrees on the vacuum can connected to ported vacuum.

Charles

Charles,

Why does it require so high an initial timing setting?

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

Charles,

Why does it require so high an initial timing setting?

I find the engine has better throttle response off the line. It also idles better and cleaner, and the engine shuts off better without run on..

There are others on here who can explain the time it takes for a molecule of gas to burn and flame front.. it's complicated.. but makes sense.

Charles

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

THAT'S a good suggestion! Never heard that one before. Is there a down side to doing it that way?

Adam: No down side just a matter of preference. I find I don't have to rev the crap out of the engine trying to set total timing. I read somewhere, probably on P/Y someone doing it this way and I just liked it.

I run an MSD distributor and had a friend custom make me different size bushings so I can tailor my initial timing. My total timing will always be at 32 degrees for my application. So I just needed to set initial with different size bushings in the distributor..

I know which springs work the best for my total timing all in before 3000. Maybe a bit sooner..

Charles

[pugslyx234]

69*Goat use distilled water.

[David Jones]

Russell, maybe I missed it.....what fan do you run?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Update?

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by David Jones

Russell, maybe I missed it.....what fan do you run?

Stock Fan David with new medium duty fan clutch.

[69*Goat]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

Update?

Still dealing with it. I am headed over to torqjunki's house tomorrow and see what we can see.

I had to fix two header leaks so that I could get an accurate AFR gauge reading and make sure the mixture is correct.

I have re-adjusted the timing, the idle speed, the mixture. it is still going to 200 on the gauge at idle in gear.

Torqjunki has an infrared thermometer so I will at a minimum check the real temp. I am about half temped to put the timing at 14 initial, and see what it does. That would put my total timing (initial and mechanical) at 34.

[tom s]

while there check the temp of the water going into the radiator,out of the radiator,at the thermostat housing and the X over etc.So easy to look for any hot spots while your at it.Tom

[69*Goat]

Ok:

Feeling better about things.

Infrared Thermometer showed the following:With the gauge reading 200 deg.

1) Rad outlet 178 deg

2) Rad inlet 178 deg

3) Thermostat housing 178 deg

4) water crossover at sensor 200 deg

5) Trans cooling lines 178 deg

6) Cylinder heads 179 deg

My dist. springs were too weak to hold consistent timing.

My vac advance was only giving me 7 deg advance, I had forgotten that I had put a stop in it, so upon investigation, I pulled it, elongated the hole and now I am getting 12-13 deg vac advance.

re-djusted the carb, the timing.

Right now I am at 30 deg, plus the 12-13 vacuum advance.

It is a whole lot snappier now.

I just need to decide if I want to move the temp sensor.

torqjunki really helped me out on the deal.