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  #21  
Old 01-24-2007, 04:36 PM
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Rob B Rob B is offline
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And it's very hard to lighten them when you want to keep the stock look as much as possible! I'm trying to figure where I can get another 100lbs out of the car. I've been told that if I remove the door support bars that that's good for about 50-60lbs but I hate to lose that support.

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  #22  
Old 01-24-2007, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob B
And it's very hard to lighten them when you want to keep the stock look as much as possible! I'm trying to figure where I can get another 100lbs out of the car. I've been told that if I remove the door support bars that that's good for about 50-60lbs but I hate to lose that support.
Would'nt worry about lose'n the door crash bars unless you dont have a cage.
Had my 68 FB doors off last week to do hge pin/bshgs. I swear they weigh 1/2 as much as a 2 gen FB with bars.
No problem one man'n them.
Forgot to weigh'm vs a 2nd gen door i have right next to the 68
Have to remember that when i do my 67 FB hinges this spring.

Another place to lose weight is the cowl panel from the w/shield corners to outer fender.
Not sure what mod's have to be done. Will look into it on my 68 when i remove the fdr's soon for body work.
Would like to switch to plastic frt wheel hse's, but have stuff mntd to both sides, and no where else to go.

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  #23  
Old 01-25-2007, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchoshop
Another place to lose weight is the cowl panel from the w/shield corners to outer fender.
Not sure what mod's have to be done. Will look into it on my 68 when i remove the fdr's soon for body work.
Would like to switch to plastic frt wheel hse's, but have stuff mntd to both sides, and no where else to go.
Do you mean something like this?



If so all you need is some cut off wheels, a sharpie, some posterboard and flat sheet metal.

I left the ledge to help with fender alignment and support, plus its hardly noticable if your not looking for it.


It only saves around 10-15 lbs however, takes about 2 hrs to complete. With a modified radiator support it does allow a steel clip to be a one piece removable clip like a fiberglass one, great access for working on the motor while remaining class legal.

  #24  
Old 01-25-2007, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob B
And it's very hard to lighten them when you want to keep the stock look as much as possible! I'm trying to figure where I can get another 100lbs out of the car. I've been told that if I remove the door support bars that that's good for about 50-60lbs but I hate to lose that support.

Did you remove the bumper shocks and some of the bumper support structure? Some good savings there but then it looks alittle different.

Here's a couple of mine with the front done but have not yet got to the rear.
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Last edited by BILTIT; 01-25-2007 at 10:41 PM.
  #25  
Old 01-25-2007, 09:13 PM
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Yep.
10-15lb's. Seems like it should be more. Metal looks pretty thick there on my 67 FB.

How you been Lance?
Been a long time since Memphis.
Maybe Ray can make it this year.

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  #26  
Old 01-25-2007, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchoshop
Yep.
10-15lb's. Seems like it should be more. Metal looks pretty thick there on my 67 FB.

How you been Lance?
Been a long time since Memphis.
Maybe Ray can make it this year.
Yea, I was hoping for more weight, especially off the front, trying to get a certain weight split, probably going to have to try harder, lol.

I've been doing fine Mike, how about yourself? It has been a while since memphis, we would have brought a car there last year but the heads aren't allowed in xtreme street. I have a new set of 29.5 10.5s sitting in my shop, so I may try to bring my car this year if it works out just right.

  #27  
Old 01-26-2007, 06:10 AM
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Some metal can be removed from the fenders too.........every little bit helps. A friend of mine trimmed some of the metal off the inside of the fenders, I will try to get a couple of pics this weekend because I dont know how to describe exactly how its done.

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