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Old 12-15-2013, 03:06 AM
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Default smokin' 455.........

Have a pretty much stock 455 HO (71 T/A)...car was sitting for a long time....engine was run occasionally.....previous owner claims it was rebuilt....

Just getting it ready for the road.......recently tuned and runs real good...pulls strong & hard.....but pushes serious blue smoke from the right side exhaust when you get on it hard..

Compression is good...200 lbs & strong vacuum...NO blow-by....

I'm guessing bad guides or valve seals.......gummed oil rings?

Getting ready to pull the head....thought I ask for some input before I take it apart....

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Old 12-15-2013, 03:21 AM
goathead455 goathead455 is offline
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Does it happen when you are still on it or when you let off after getting on it hard?
How much have you driven it after you got it roadworthy?

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Old 12-15-2013, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goathead455 View Post
Does it happen when you are still on it or when you let off after getting on it hard?
How much have you driven it after you got it roadworthy?
Aren't you up kinda late...for an "old guy"?

Drove it down the hill & back up again......

Not sure if it was pushing smoke under accelearation as I had no co-pilot & a sticky left front caliper....need to fix brakes before I road test again...and then it snowed....you know,that white stuff.

It continued to smoke at an idle for several seconds after

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Old 12-15-2013, 04:04 AM
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Try driving it the same way with the PCV valve disconnected.
The high vacuum when you let off may be sucking oil into the intake.
The PCV hose goes into a runner on the right side of the engine.

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Old 12-15-2013, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S View Post
Aren't you up kinda late...for an "old guy"?

Drove it down the hill & back up again......

Not sure if it was pushing smoke under accelearation as I had no co-pilot & a sticky left front caliper....need to fix brakes before I road test again...and then it snowed....you know,that white stuff.

It continued to smoke at an idle for several seconds after
Who are you calling old????
Is this the car you were looking for a single head for?

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Old 12-15-2013, 04:40 AM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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I it's only been started rarely I'd drive it & put a few hundred miles on it before you take it apart ,,, unless it gets really bad, but drive it as you may just have some rings that need to be worked back in , after that if it's just smoking a little you may still have some weak oil seals because after 30+ years the seals do get hard & crack so you may just have to put some new seals on in the car. But make sure you put them on both the intake & exhaust as you can on decel suck oil through the exhaust valve . Most shop don't put them on the exhaust as they say it's not needed but it is. on Pontiacs as this is not a chevy.With good compression you shouldn't have to replace anything major. Next time you go out for a drive make sure you have a copilot so you can see whats going on.

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Old 12-15-2013, 07:18 AM
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Default 455

safety should be at top of the list....fix the brakes first or that smoke will be the least of your worries...agree tho about the seals.

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Old 12-15-2013, 09:43 AM
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Replace that brake caliper and its mounting hardware first and be sure to coat the caliper bolt sleves on the inside with antisezie.
First off pull the valve cover off on that side and pull each plug out one at a time and check for the crusty remains of oil burning.
On any plugs that look that way take a look at the Intake valves and look thru the springs to see if the valve guide seals ahve come apart, or are riding up off the guide.
Next plug the pcv line off and run it again, if that does not help then drain a qt of oil out and add in one qt of ATF and put 50 miles on the car, if it still smokes than its likly not stuck rings, but rust pitted cylinder walls from sitting so long.
Your next step then is to try a can of Restore, it that does nothing than yea, its pull it apart time on that side of the motor.

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Last edited by steve25; 12-15-2013 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goathead455 View Post
Try driving it the same way with the PCV valve disconnected.
The high vacuum when you let off may be sucking oil into the intake.
The PCV hose goes into a runner on the right side of the engine.
X 2

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Old 12-15-2013, 07:43 PM
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Since you say it smokes on hard acceleration, that indicates stuck oil rings in one or more cylinders. If it smokes only at low throttle positions, that usually indicates worn valve guides and/or seals or PCV sucking oil as goathead455 mentions. Stock valley pans[if you have one] are pretty well baffled to not suck oil and usually don't, so if yours is stock, it's probably not that, unless you have the PCV in the valve cover. Just keep in mind that driving it with the PCV disconnected WILL cause excessive crankcase pressure and that can also cause smoking. I once installed a dual quad setup on my GTO and it had no previsions for a PCV, so I ran it without one for a short time and it smoked really bad. Drilled and tapped the manifold for one and smoking went away.

I'm with Steve25 on this one. I think it's stuck oil rings if it never smoked before, and I would substitute one quart of oil with either the ATF Steve suggested or Marvel Mystery oil and drive it[after fixing brakes of course] to see if that will loosen the oil rings.

The fact that you don't have blow-by suggests to me that the compression rings are sealing good, so I would then assume the cylinder walls are OK. I have stopped a few engines from smoking with Marvel Mystery Oil. It's great stuff.

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Old 12-15-2013, 11:17 PM
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Ok,fix the brakes is on the program for tomorrow.....

Looks like some sun forecast for later in the week...snow's GONE so hopefully I can get some miles on it....

I AM a fan of Marvel Mystery Oil...also had good success with Risolene Oil Treatment,so will likely give it a dose of one or the other...the Risolene product can be added to a FULL crankcase...which tells me it's more of a cleaner than lube...perhaps what I need...

So we are hopng for stuck/gummed oil rings......

FYI.....I'm getting a rock SOLID 21 inches of vacuum....didn't believe my reading so confirmed with another gauge....

Also oil pressure shows to be quite high...

As I recall,these engines used a specific intake gasket....but I guess if the gaskets were wrong,I would have exhaust or vacuum leaks...

THANKS for everybodys input..........

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Old 12-16-2013, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S View Post
Ok,fix the brakes is on the program for tomorrow.....

Looks like some sun forecast for later in the week...snow's GONE so hopefully I can get some miles on it....

I AM a fan of Marvel Mystery Oil...also had good success with Risolene Oil Treatment,so will likely give it a dose of one or the other...the Risolene product can be added to a FULL crankcase...which tells me it's more of a cleaner than lube...perhaps what I need...

So we are hopng for stuck/gummed oil rings......

FYI.....I'm getting a rock SOLID 21 inches of vacuum....didn't believe my reading so confirmed with another gauge....

Also oil pressure shows to be quite high...

As I recall,these engines used a specific intake gasket....but I guess if the gaskets were wrong,I would have exhaust or vacuum leaks...

THANKS for everybodys input..........
If Rislone is thick, I would not use that. You need a good, thin oil like Marvel or ATF to loosen the rings. I thought Rislone was more for filling imperfections, but I have never used it so, I'm not sure.

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  #13  
Old 12-16-2013, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtofreek View Post
If Rislone is thick, I would not use that. You need a good, thin oil like Marvel or ATF to loosen the rings. I thought Rislone was more for filling imperfections, but I have never used it so, I'm not sure.
This is the stuff.....http://rislone.ca/catalog/view/44-en...reatment-34100

As I recall,it's actually a lighter viscosity than the Marvel Oil is...

I used it on a similar issue I had years ago and it did help...

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Old 12-16-2013, 01:52 PM
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ATF will boil and cook as it rolles across the hot cylinder head.

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Old 12-17-2013, 08:15 AM
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If a motors oil temp is getting high enough to boil any mineral based type oil be it engine or ATF, then there are other issues with the motor in question and or it just plain needs a oil cooler!

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And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!

1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.

Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.

1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.

Education is what your left with once you forget things!
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:02 AM
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ATF boils around 600°F.

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Old 12-17-2013, 01:19 PM
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Luckily,high engine temp isn't an issue for me ....think thermostat needs to be checked/changed as motor seems to run quite cool...

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