[HWYSTR455]

Quick question, does the choke wire provide 12V during cranking?

How about the idle stop sol wire?

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[77 TRASHCAN]

For the choke wire, the couple of seconds of cranking is in consequential to the choke operation.

Idle stop would only be hot with AC on.

I ran a wire all the way to fuse box, used a vacant spade that is hot with key on. I didn't want to add anything to another circuit....

[HWYSTR455]

I need a hot wire while cranking, and want to use an available spade on the engine harness side, using a AAW harness. The less i run thru the firewall the cleaner it will be.

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[67gtospud]

I ran an American auto wire classic update series kit in my 67. The electric choke wire (pink) is hot while cranking. I actually used it as my trigger wire for my efi when I was running an efi throttle body.

[Cliff R]

The "I" terminal on the starter solenoid for sure will be "hot" during cranking. If you are using a Ford solenoid it will be easily accessible under the hood w/o having to punch thru the firewall. The starter mounted solenoid a bit more difficult to get to......Cliff

[HWYSTR455]

Thanks gang!

Yeah, I need a constant 12v key-on source, which also provides power during cranking. With the Dominator EFI ECU, the ECU, DBW, and 4L80E needs 12v key-on as well as during cranking, the 4L80E and DBW needs 12v isolated from the ECU power, or you have a run-on scenario at key off.

Cliff, the I terminal on the sol, is that also hot at key on, or full time? Or only during cranking?

I think my choke wire off the AAW harness is yellow, but no biggie, I will check that. But still curious if that is hot during cranking? (As well as key-on) I realize that it wouldn't make a diff in a carb app, but not what I'm trying to use it for.

I really just want to make it as compact as possible, with least amount of wires, and use wires from the harness connector on the firewall if possible. I have everything figured out but one isolated 12v key-on w power during cranking and will be golden.

I have all the circuits completed, most are independent, on fuses in the fuse box, and either clearly marked or documented, down to the final stretch. I gutted all unused wires from the EFI harnesses, shortened all wires to the required lengths, used metri-pack, Delphi, and other connectors so it's easily serviceable, and am able to remove the intake without unplugging everything (sensors, injectors, etc). Made sure that orientation of the connectors are so they can't be accidentally plugged into the wrong place by mixing and matching series, and flip-flopping male/female connectors.

Mini rant there, sorry!

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[Cliff R]

Only during cranking. It was used to bypass the resistor wire to the coil and provide more voltage to the points when starting......Cliff