[PunchT37]

I would start by removing all my rocker studs and cleaning the threads and threaded holes with brake cleaner. Then, applying a sealer to them. Reinstall and torque to specs. Same with upper valve cover bolts if they protrude into the port.



We used to use this at the dealership.



https://sdparts.com/images/F144673604.jpg

[78w72]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

There are a few others here that keep it real like I do;

LOL!

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by 78w72

LOL!

Seems to me you are just here to cause trouble and weave discord.

You are officially on ignore for the duration.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Seems to me you are just here to cause trouble and weave discord.

You are officially on ignore for the duration.

not at all, im here to learn & help others... but when you constantly post udder nonsense & lies... i will continue to call you out on it.

please put me on ignore, at least you wont have to avoid & deflect everything when i present those pesky facts! better put everyone else on ignore too...

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Since I couldn't get my leak down tester working, I tried a comp test.

1...200 2...185.....re-test will oil.....194

4...200

3...194 6...195

5...200 8...194

7...185......not sure this is accurate, couldn't get
the hose on there right.

Reason for this test, seem to be using quite a bit of oil...……..smoking under hard accel, only a little upon start up.

PCV seems to be working, put a q-tip in the hose and maybe a little mark on the tip.

Motor is a 463, kre heads ported by SD 295....OF cam 1.65 rockers....627/632 lift.

Comp is 10.6...……..pistons are SRP

#'s seem kind of high to me...………..but this is the way the motor has been running since 2010...……….seems to run on the 91 octane, every now and then I throw couple gallons of race gas in it to see if it runs any better...……..hard to tell the difference.

Was gonna throw this thread unto my old one from last week...….KRE heads % HF tester, but it seems after a week, I find im not getting any interest.

So sorry for the new post. On test, motor was warm, throttle on...…...6 cranks each, so im thinking I got this right.

Seeing im using oil, and thinking im still a little rich, thinking these #'s are high because carbon build up on the pistons tops. ?????

This is the 2nd time I had this motor re-built since 2007...…...im living on SS, hoping I don't have to do this again, so any tips on what to do.

Thanks

Rich

Ever had much spark knock?

Sometimes that can lead into damage that causes an engine to use oil.

What happened with the first rebuild?

[ta man]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Well yeah, there's no replacement for displacement!

I see these guys asking about running 10.6 recipes and cringe.

And you can't hardly ever turn that train around here.

It's always high compression, big cam, and a huge slug o fuel.

So then you have a gorilla on the street when you really wanted a cheetah.

When my heads were refreshed and re ported. We raised the compression up to 10.8 from 10.2. This was the advice from the head porter. We also increased the valve lift to be in the .660lift range.

[Formulajones]

There are literally thousands and thousands of success stories with classic car engines running high compression on pump gas. It's pretty much been the theme with these cars for a couple of decades now and even racing classes designed around it (pump gas drags for instance) People got tired of spending a small fortune running race gas and mixing crap 25 years ago, especially those of us that actually drive our cars on a regular basis.

We have several of our own. 10.84:1 with aluminum heads, 10.13:1 with iron heads, 11:1 with iron heads, 10.5:1 with iron heads, and another that is 10.2:1 with aluminum heads. They all run a strict diet of 91 octane with no boosters, and some of these engines have been together as long as 15+ years with no issues.

So this is not the OP's problem. The Old Faithful cam should get the job done at 10.6:1 with aluminum heads as long as it's installed at the right ICL. He has an oil usage problem and in most cases I find that generally in the cylinder heads. Usually with either worn guides, worn valve stems both of which create excessive clearance, or the lack of positive seals or just worn out positive seals or any combination there of. Or some heads rebuilt that simply didn't have positive seals installed as some places still go the cheap route and use umbrellas or O-rings on the stems. On rare occasions you'll find the PCV the culprit.
On other style engines (non valley pan) I've found leaky intake gaskets sucking oil.
Sucks having an engine that drinks oil but you'll find the cause. A leak down test will help narrow it down. I can't remember all the details Rich when you emailed me about this a while back but I'm sure you'll find the cause.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by ta man

When my heads were refreshed and re ported. We raised the compression up to 10.8 from 10.2. This was the advice from the head porter. We also increased the valve lift to be in the .660lift range.

what octane do you run? i will make a random guess of 89-91?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

There are literally thousands and thousands of success stories with classic car engines running high compression on pump gas. It's pretty much been the theme with these cars for a couple of decades now and even racing classes designed around it (pump gas drags for instance) People got tired of spending a small fortune running race gas and mixing crap 25 years ago, especially those of us that actually drive our cars on a regular basis.

We have several of our own. 10.84:1 with aluminum heads, 10.13:1 with iron heads, 11:1 with iron heads, 10.5:1 with iron heads, and another that is 10.2:1 with aluminum heads. They all run a strict diet of 91 octane with no boosters, and some of these engines have been together as long as 15+ years with no issues.

So this is not the OP's problem. The Old Faithful cam should get the job done at 10.6:1 with aluminum heads as long as it's installed at the right ICL. He has an oil usage problem and in most cases I find that generally in the cylinder heads. Usually with either worn guides, worn valve stems both of which create excessive clearance, or the lack of positive seals or just worn out positive seals or any combination there of. Or some heads rebuilt that simply didn't have positive seals installed as some places still go the cheap route and use umbrellas or O-rings on the stems. On rare occasions you'll find the PCV the culprit.
On other style engines (non valley pan) I've found leaky intake gaskets sucking oil.
Sucks having an engine that drinks oil but you'll find the cause. A leak down test will help narrow it down. I can't remember all the details Rich when you emailed me about this a while back but I'm sure you'll find the cause.

there you go with those darn facts again...

[Formulajones]

LOL

[ta man]

Originally Posted by 78w72

what octane do you run? i will make a random guess of 89-91?

It runs fine on either, I actually have a 87 pump here at home for my work vehicles it does fine on that as a top up .
When I go to the drag strip I try and make sure its closer to a 91 octane mix. I have tried 94 octane ..doesn't seem to make a difference so no sense spending more.

[TAQuest]

Previously;

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I run the 068 only because I want to conform to a certain rules package. If it weren't for that I'd be looking at something else.

I can tell you everything has to be spot on to run pump gas with this cam.



]

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Previously;

Point being??

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by steve25

Why did the motor need to be rebuilt the first time , did you have broken rings from a bad tune?

When valve seals are bad and oil is up to temp the Exh will puff smoke at idle or when you on the road and you let off the throttle.

Have you had the valve covers off lately and if so do the valve cover bolt holes go right thru into the Intake port?

If so how did you reseal them and also note that sealer can brake down with time when exposed to fuel or fuel vapors.

Same deal with rocker studs!

Steve, when I had the 455 built in 07, it was using oil right from the get go, about a qt every 500 miles, also had a leak at rear main/oil pan.

Ended up buying some alum heads from sd, so I had that motor redone, that was in 2010.

Still have the oil pan/rear main leak...…...seems like the trans is getting oil on it, so im assuming its from the rear main. Don't think the vc bolts go thru the intake port, but I put sealer on them anyways.

Punch.....never did that stuff , but guess im gonna learn one way or the other. Cant wait to adjust the valves, never did that either, oh boy, I can see some issues there. lol

Formula Jones...…….the heads were new in 2010 , got them from Dave at SD, guess im gonna have to look at those seals and rocker studs. Had to laugh, when I first got hold of you couple years back it was for the a/f gauge to help with the tripower………..still haven't gotten it yet.

Some asked about the gas, when I had the motor done we had 93 up here in WI, they just cut us off that awhile back, so I was using 91 and throwing in a couple gallons of race gas here and there.

TA Man...………….this is the pcv ive had in the car for the last year, its from Bulter, not sure I have a pcv problem, but I threw in the right one 679 I think is the #.

Couple pics of the old plugs Autolite 3923, these were in for 2 summers, that's the longest ive every had plugs in this car, usually every summer I put in a new set.

[gtorich]

Ran out of room for pics, now these are the new plugs I put in NKG FR5...1st pics are of the plug at 40 or so miles...……….the other pics are at 100 or so miles.

If you look at my previous pics of the plugs......Mick Batson mentioned that some of my gaskets were not crushed enough, and that is where the oil was coming out over the plug inside the head...……….think I got the new ones in better, but man im parnoid with messing with the aluminum heads and spark plug holes, I have a bad habit of going a hair to far.

Was thinking of just plugging off the pcv hose and run without and see if anything happens there.

Was surprised no one mentioned possible bad/broken rings...……...like I said I do get a puff here and there on start up, but when hard accel im getting it there also.

Just wanted to thank for all the help im getting from you guys...……...you can tell from most of my posts I have a hard time explaining things well...……...and im not even drinking today, that's my usual excuse on the puter. lol

Rich

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Steve, when I had the 455 built in 07, it was using oil right from the get go, about a qt every 500 miles, also had a leak at rear main/oil pan.

Ended up buying some alum heads from sd, so I had that motor redone, that was in 2010.

Still have the oil pan/rear main leak...…...seems like the trans is getting oil on it, so im assuming its from the rear main. Don't think the vc bolts go thru the intake port, but I put sealer on them anyways.

Punch.....never did that stuff , but guess im gonna learn one way or the other. Cant wait to adjust the valves, never did that either, oh boy, I can see some issues there. lol

Formula Jones...…….the heads were new in 2010 , got them from Dave at SD, guess im gonna have to look at those seals and rocker studs. Had to laugh, when I first got hold of you couple years back it was for the a/f gauge to help with the tripower………..still haven't gotten it yet.

Some asked about the gas, when I had the motor done we had 93 up here in WI, they just cut us off that awhile back, so I was using 91 and throwing in a couple gallons of race gas here and there.

TA Man...………….this is the pcv ive had in the car for the last year, its from Bulter, not sure I have a pcv problem, but I threw in the right one 679 I think is the #.

Couple pics of the old plugs Autolite 3923, these were in for 2 summers, that's the longest ive every had plugs in this car, usually every summer I put in a new set.

Is that an AC pcv valve or a cheap one?

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Was surprised no one mentioned possible bad/broken rings...……...like I said I do get a puff here and there on start up, but when hard accel im getting it there also.


Rich

You might. But, I start at easier and cheaper ways to find a mystery problem 1`st.

Especially when doing keyboard diagnosis.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by PunchT37

You might. But, I start at easier and cheaper ways to find a mystery problem 1`st.

Especially when doing keyboard diagnosis.

Sounds good Punch...………..that pcv valve is from Bulter performance......no idea if its a cheapy or what.

The one I have in there now is a AC 679

Rich

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Was surprised no one mentioned possible bad/broken rings...……...like I said I do get a puff here and there on start up, but when hard accel im getting it there also.

Rich

I did.

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Ever had much spark knock?
Sometimes that can lead into damage that causes an engine to use oil.

[78w72]

"i did"

not anywhere on this thread...