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  #101  
Old 03-26-2011, 08:24 AM
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Default rod ends

The kit I used from Checkered Racing www.checkeredracing.com/LadderBarBackHalf.html uses QA1 EXM rod ends. They have teflon/kevlar races and increased cross sectional thickness for greater strength. Supposed to be a little more "giving" for less noise while still strong enough for street movements. The ladder bars use these ends in the back, also for a smoother ride. I recommend using a strong pan hard bar with them.
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  #102  
Old 03-26-2011, 09:15 AM
tom s tom s is offline
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FYI,watch the area where your panhard bar attaches to the unibody rail.The material is not as thick as you would think.Mine ripped out after about 8 years of street driving.We had to go back and reinforce the area.Tom

  #103  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:23 PM
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Thanks.

I do have solid rod ends in the back at the axle And I know I should run heims in
The front but I'm gona be hammering on this thing hard. I will be driving on the
Street too.
Tom S. Do you recamend boxing or just plating the inside maybe 6-8 inch's of
The subframe thnks again guys.

GT.

  #104  
Old 03-26-2011, 10:59 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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if to redo again,I would box.I ripped a chunk out of the inside unibody rail.Tom

  #105  
Old 03-27-2011, 12:24 AM
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this is good to hear for me because i boxed everything.

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  #106  
Old 03-27-2011, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pontiac jack View Post
... four-cylinder engine for the lakester... it will differ from a Tempest in many ways...
Forgot one other oddity- I'll be using the left bank of my other aluminum V8 block!

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  #107  
Old 04-02-2011, 12:52 AM
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Smile 62 Tempest

Well I'm taking my rear axle to drop it off tomorrow to get it
Narrowed and all the brackets welded and the new axles.
Should have it back somtime next week I've gota get going
on the motor now times getting short I really want to drive
This thing

  #108  
Old 04-03-2011, 05:19 PM
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I just checked the valve spring Inst. Hieght open-closed pressures+coilbind.
I'm good to go on the head department, Got to get the shortblock done.
Still have to finish the trans tunnel and order my motor plate.

Should have the rear axle back by Fri or Sat. I'm getting closer.

GT.

  #109  
Old 04-05-2011, 07:18 PM
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Default Project update

Finished fabricating and welding the transmission tunnel today. It took a lot of time, but is rewarding to have done it myself. Now comes the grinder and seam sealer followed by cleaning and POR 15. It is also nice to have the suspension done and have it back on all fours.
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  #110  
Old 04-06-2011, 10:55 AM
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Nice work Jerry!! POR15 also makes a seem sealer which is like POR15 in a tube, works great!

  #111  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:16 AM
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Looking good Jerry. Can't wait to see it at Norwalk.

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  #112  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:42 PM
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Looking good c5farmer did you use the argon bottle to shape your tunnel
Got a call today can pick up my rear axle tomorrow Can't wait to meet
Everyone at Norwalk this year.

  #113  
Old 04-08-2011, 10:01 PM
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Default Trans tunnel

blueghost--I used a combo of bending the sheet metal over a transmission and finishing it around the argon bottle. It Worked pretty well. Thanks for the tip. Welded it in using a Hobart 135 mig with .028 wire.

Your prepped differential will really get you wired to work on the car. Installing the rear end is a big step that makes all the remaining construction seem easy!

Will look you up at Norwalk. c5farmer

  #114  
Old 04-09-2011, 10:43 PM
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Just a tip Farmer; Por-15 doesn't adhere very well to painted surfaces
Or clean metel surfaces either, It is desinged to encapsulate rust only
So that no air or moisture can get to it FWIW. GT.

  #115  
Old 04-12-2011, 03:45 PM
grparen grparen is offline
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Default Need Pictures of '63 Lemans Coupe Interior Trim Pieces

Can someone send me pictures of the interior trim on their '63 Lemans coupe? I need pictures of the trim around the windshield and rear glass so I know what trim pieces go where? I am pulling pieces together but may be missing some and it sure would help if I had some pictures. Thanks in advance for your help.

  #116  
Old 04-12-2011, 08:54 PM
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Default New Pic

Hey guys, here is a newer pic of mine. I will take some of the interior and engine etc this weekend and get 'em posted.

Mike
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  #117  
Old 04-12-2011, 09:50 PM
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Here's a pic of mine posted in the race section.
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67 Bonneville ragtop

74 Firebird - 455, e heads, TK0600 in process
  #118  
Old 04-13-2011, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueghoast View Post
Just a tip Farmer; Por-15 doesn't adhere very well to painted surfaces
Or clean metel surfaces either, It is desinged to encapsulate rust only
So that no air or moisture can get to it FWIW. GT.
I have painted POR15 over everything except oil and dirt (of course). Just make sure you clean it real well with their marine clean or any wax and grease remover. I painted over clean sand blasted metal, rusted metal, painted metal, and undercoated metal and it sticks. Problem is that it dries slow and runs everywhere so put it on in very thin coats as they recommend.

  #119  
Old 04-13-2011, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlund12 View Post
Hey guys, here is a newer pic of mine. I will take some of the interior and engine etc this weekend and get 'em posted.

Mike
Beautiful 63 Mike!! What kind of wheels are they?

  #120  
Old 04-25-2011, 12:36 AM
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I've finished the rear suspention on my 62 Tempest except the track locater.
I decided to go with it for exaust room and less stress on the sub frame.
Now it's time to get started on the drive shaft tunnel, I'll post some pics
After I get that part done.

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