#1  
Old 05-17-2020, 03:23 PM
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Default Leak After New Install

For those not following, I had a weep-hole leak and decided to replace my pump with an aluminum Flowkooler, new hoses and a new Stainless Steel divider plate.

I uses Permatex ultra grey very lightly on the thin gaskets that came with the Flowkooler and very carefully torqued all 11 bolts to 15 foot lbs. I let it set for 2 days before putting 50/50 in it and after about 3 minutes it started leaking.

Bad gasket? Divider plate?

Thanks,
Rick
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Old 05-17-2020, 05:41 PM
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You don't have the divider plate trapped between the pump housing and the timing cover do you?

  #3  
Old 05-18-2020, 10:00 AM
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I can't see a smoking gun, the plate looks a little bent but it should have cinched up with torque. Any thoughts, observations?
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Old 05-18-2020, 10:03 AM
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More pics
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:15 AM
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Bolt bottoming, or tight in the threads?

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  #6  
Old 05-18-2020, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 439gto View Post
Bolt bottoming, or tight in the threads?
Ya know what, you may have nailed it. I ordered a new set of bolts from Ames and all 9 of those type bolts were exactly the same size. My old bolt set had 1 of the 9 shorter than the other 8 (see image).

See the pics, with the same size bolt in all 3 holes one shows more threads than the others when hand tight. When I swap that bolt with the shorter from my old install it goes in much further hand tight.
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Old 05-18-2020, 01:21 PM
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Nice call 439!

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Old 05-18-2020, 02:05 PM
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I compared the Flowkooler to my old pump and it seems to be the same height at the bolt mounts. I am planning to put it back together using the short bolt in that one hole, hope it doesn't leak.

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Old 05-18-2020, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69TempestCustomS View Post
it could be that the bolts are bottoming in the holes?are you using a stainless divider plate? it looks like one.

if your using a stainless plate. return it. explain why it does not work. get a carbon steel one and hope they start producing one of the proper alloy that does not warp badly and work harden so badly that it cannot flatten and seal.
I am using the stainless steel but to your point, I am considering using the plate I had in there with my old pump. See the attached picture, there is some minor pitting I wire brushed but I believe it would be okay...thoughts?
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Old 05-18-2020, 05:17 PM
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Looks the same as the steel plate I pulled out.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:51 AM
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Not quite ready to declare victory, I need some expertise.

Everything is back together, torqued and I let it set overnight before adding back some distilled water. I checked out pressure tester from O'Reilley's and it has been sitting rock steady at 16 psi for over an hour.

My question is, since the system has been drained should I have ran the engine for a while before the pressure test to circulate H2O throughout? I'm guessing there is about 4.5 gallons in the system now.

Thanks,
Rick

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Old 05-21-2020, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koppster View Post
Not quite ready to declare victory, I need some expertise.

Everything is back together, torqued and I let it set overnight before adding back some distilled water. I checked out pressure tester from O'Reilley's and it has been sitting rock steady at 16 psi for over an hour.

My question is, since the system has been drained should I have ran the engine for a while before the pressure test to circulate H2O throughout? I'm guessing there is about 4.5 gallons in the system now.

Thanks,
Rick
I don't think that would be necessary. If there was a lot of air in there, it just would have taken a lot more to pump it up because the air compresses. If it is holding for an hour all is good.

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