[Shiny]

Finally got to trying this and it didn't go well for me.

What alternatives to the Krylon gloss black are recommended?

I just had a bad experience with it and I'm hoping I can recover.

I spent about 4 hours masking off my bezel, sprayed it, and found the Krylon didn't wet. Very frustrating!

I had scrubbed with hot water and detergent before taping, then wiped it down with Summit wax and grease remover before spraying. As you can see, the Krylon did not wet. Maybe the part still had silicone on it, maybe the blue tape has silicone on it and I spread it around, or maybe the Krylon just doesn't wet well. Either way, I'm not going to try it again.

Fortunately, it wiped off easily with the same Summit solvent, so I'm hoping I didn't destroy this nice part.

What alternatives have others used under the Spaz Stix? Would I have better luck with Rustoleum or maybe something like Testor's for plastic models? I'd like the gloss to go on thinner than the Krylon in hopes of maintaining some detail in the ribbed portion around the knobs.

Pics show as-started, masked, the bad Krylon result, and after wiping the Krylon off

[HWYSTR455]

Uhg. Never use generic or 'house' paint on car stuff, but guess you know that now.

SEM makes products for prepping and spraying plastic parts, do your homework, SEM has resources available to study.

https://www.semproducts.com/

It's generally a 3 step process, clean, promoter, and paint.

.

[goatman65]

I use a chrome foil for large areas and a product called Bare-Metal foil for smaller areas.Bare -Metal foil comes in chrome,gold or a brushed finish. It is sold by hobby shops.

It takes some patience and a very sharp X-acto knife,but It will look as good as any expensive replate when you're done. And much better than any paint.

[goatman65]

The foil is also great for doing the inside of taillight bezels.

[My442]

Originally Posted by goatman65

I use a chrome foil for large areas and a product called Bare-Metal foil for smaller areas.Bare -Metal foil comes in chrome,gold or a brushed finish. It is sold by hobby shops.

It takes some patience and a very sharp X-acto knife,but It will look as good as any expensive replate when you're done. And much better than any paint.

Agree 100%

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Uhg. Never use generic or 'house' paint on car stuff, but guess you know that now.

SEM makes products for prepping and spraying plastic parts, do your homework, SEM has resources available to study.

https://www.semproducts.com/

It's generally a 3 step process, clean, promoter, and paint.

.

Uhg was milder than my reaction, but yes, Uhg

As for the Krylon vs SEM, was following OP's example, which clearly worked great for him.

My results were different.

Now that I've established my plastic is hard to wet, I'll follow your advice and go get some SEM products. I have an adhesion promoter already and see that SEM makes a gloss black aerosol. My Summit prep solvent did not eat the plastic, which was good, but maybe the SEM prep solvent would be better ??

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by goatman65

I use a chrome foil for large areas and a product called Bare-Metal foil for smaller areas.Bare -Metal foil comes in chrome,gold or a brushed finish. It is sold by hobby shops.

It takes some patience and a very sharp X-acto knife,but It will look as good as any expensive replate when you're done. And much better than any paint.

Thanks for the suggestion, but the geometry and detail of the metallized areas on this bezel just don't lend themselves to it IMO. For example, I expect it would be a challenge to get a foil to conform to the ribs in the area pictured below

[HWYSTR455]

I would follow the SEM recommendations/instructions to the letter, and use only their' products. Your chances of success that way would be greatest.

The only other 'real' option is to send it out to be restored, which has a lead time, and cost is a factor.

I have heard many attempt doing this type of stuff on their' own, and results are spotty at best. If you have more time than money, and can live with marginal results, then take a whack at it. If you want something to look dead-nuts right/great, and last, you know what you should do.

.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by Shiny

Thanks for the suggestion, but the geometry and detail of the metallized areas on this bezel just don't lend themselves to it IMO. For example, I expect it would be a challenge to get a foil to conform to the ribs in the area pictured below

I dunno, that foil works really good. I've used it on model cars and real cars with great success!

[Greg Reid]

Ugh is right. VERY sorry you had this trouble based on my recommendations.
I don't think you're going to get any better results with another product just because it's made for automotive apps as opposed to household purposes. Also, I've used the Bare Metal foil on some apps like model airplanes and such and the Spaz Stix looks more like chrome than any kind of foil in my humble opinion...by FAR.
I have used the Krylon 'Rust Tough' on MANY, MANY things under the hood of my car and on the dash as described in this thread. Never had anything but great results. It is my favorite rattle can paint.
I really think your dash is contaminated with something to get those 'fish-eyes' but I'm no expert. Just a guy that has had this happen to me from time to time.
Sometimes I've been able to able to get it cleaned up and others, not. Maybe something strong like HOT water and dishwashing or laundry detergent? Maybe even toss the thing in the dishwasher.
EDIT- On second look, I see that it 'fish-eyed' even on the tape. Looks like you got a defective product to me. I've never had any problems with that paint.

[Greg Reid]

Just re-read my post and did not mean to sound so defensive about this, it's just that I've done this three times now and I know that it works. Still can't imagine what happened with yours Shiny.
Did you use the 'Rust Tough' or just regular Krylon? Either way you should not have had that problem but just wondering since the Rust Tough has a superior fan spray nozzle that I like.

[goatman65]

The BareMetal foil is very thin and will conform to any shape or angle. I've used it on model cars and to do even the smallest chrome details. A dull toothpick would work it into those ribs with no problem. And it's cheap, about $7 a sheet.

[HWYSTR455]

My concern with the foil is what type of adhesive to use? I know on some items that it has been used on it peels. If paint won't stick, that stuff probably won't either, so that needs to be resolved.

It's possible the product is bad, I've seen that stuff sit on the shelf in stores for years. I know I've has similar results using other store-brand products, and definitely when mixing urethane and lacquer products. Which is why now, I only use engine enamel, so I don't run into a compatibility issue. It pretty much stays the same product.

There are different bases products use, and some will stick better than others, depending on the surface material (metal, plastic, wood). That's where my comment comes from when I mentioned SEM.

I use engine enamel in the engine compartment, that stuff sticks to pretty much everything, but metal the best. Plastic, I use SEM stuff.

If you prep the surface properly, and use a specific adhesive, I would imagine the foil would give great results. But that method seems time consuming, so goes back to the time/money thing.

Could try to find a good used piece, and just replace it. I know there are some that market restored pieces and that insert is a popular piece. Simple core fee and swap the part. That's an option not sure I mentioned.

.

[Shiny]

I started down the Spaz path after seeing Greg's results and intend to stick with it. I have little confidence I could make a foil application look any better.

I have the part masked and that was a big investment.

I realized as Greg did, the fisheye was also on the tape, which means the problem was with the paint.

I have had trouble with water before, so that might have happened. I have to admit, the weather was nice and I didn't check the humidity level. I have found if the dewpoint is less than 10 degrees lower than the temperature, I can have problems.

I called SEM and plan to use their products as HWYSTR455 suggests. The tech rep was very helpful. The local WESCO store didn't stock it all, so I had to order, but here's the recommendation:

1. SEM Soap - apparently has a mild abrasive
2. Prep Solvent
3. Adhesion Promoter - for thermoplastics
4. SEM Gloss Black paint for plastics - their general purpose enamel was not recommended

Wish me luck, and thanks to all for the comments.

Worse that happens is I destroy this part and have to find another or buy a repro.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

My concern with the foil.... If paint won't stick, that stuff probably won't either, so that needs to be resolved.
...
There are different bases products use, and some will stick better than others, depending on the surface material (metal, plastic, wood). That's where my comment comes from when I mentioned SEM.
...
If you prep the surface properly, and use a specific adhesive, I would imagine the foil would give great results. But that method seems time consuming, so goes back to the time/money thing.

Could try to find a good used piece, and just replace it. I know there are some that market restored pieces and that insert is a popular piece. Simple core fee and swap the part. That's an option not sure I mentioned.

.

All good comments and makes sense to me.

For me, I have lots of time, try to spend as little as possible, and the reward is all about learning, which is often about failing and trying again...

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by goatman65

The BareMetal foil is very thin and will conform to any shape or angle. I've used it on model cars and to do even the smallest chrome details. A dull toothpick would work it into those ribs with no problem. And it's cheap, about $7 a sheet.

I'll get some and see what it's like, but have committed to the Spaz on this one. I've never used the foil, and I might find uses for it.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Just re-read my post and did not mean to sound so defensive about this, it's just that I've done this three times now and I know that it works. Still can't imagine what happened with yours Shiny.
Did you use the 'Rust Tough' or just regular Krylon? Either way you should not have had that problem but just wondering since the Rust Tough has a superior fan spray nozzle that I like.

You weren't defensive to me, just reinforcing your success, which was evident from your original post and motivated me to try this. Yes, I used the "Rust Tough" enamel... maybe I got a bad can, but I haven't had much luck with it on other stuff... maybe the solvent blend and the Seattle humidity don't play well together? Thanks again.

[Greg Reid]

Who knows...maybe Krylon has a different recipe for their products on the west coast. I don't know. At any rate, as long as you get a good, slick, black surface, the Spazstix should work with it.
By the way, and I should have mentioned this before, I strongly suggest you practice a bit with the Spazstix on something you've sprayed your new black paint on. A little goes a long way so you'll have some to spare for practice.
What are you spraying with? Airbrush or did you get the aerosol version?

[Shiny]

It's not the paint, it's me somehow, probably high RH and I should have checked

I bought the aerosol, don't own an airbrush

I'll practice, thanks for the warning

[Greg Reid]

Good luck going forward and keep us informed.