[tom s]

My last install we had to push the clutch in to finish it off.Tom

[AG]

When this happens I put the trans in as far as it goes and then snug the four trans bolts and place the crossmember in without bolting it down. Attach the clutch linkage and have someone depress the clutch pedal and the trans should go right in, the disc will center itself if off center a slight amount.

[PontiacJim1959]

Pull the bell and see if it slips over the collar on the trans. Maybe it has been replaced at some point with aftermarket and it is just not exactly as factory, ie too large.

Next, pull the pilot bearing. It may fit the alignment tool, bit does it actually fit the end of the trans input shaft.

Next, make sure the input shaft is not bottoming out. Again, replacement shaft? I would put a little clay in the hole in the crank that the trans input shaft fits and make sure I have some extra space between it and the machined hole in the crank. Also maybe some paint or something on the input shaft where it is machined down to make the smaller alignment pin that goes into the pilot bearing. It could be jamming on the pilot bearing/bushing. Bearing/bushing may be wrong one or too thick and not allowing the input shaft to go deeper in.


In my experience, I have had to use the trans bolts to draw the tranny in that last little bit. Obviously, you know when you are using too much force to tighten the bolts. You don't want to crank down on them and break an ear off the trans. Tighten each bolt a little at a time to draw the trans in evenly.

Maybe some pics for us and someone here will spot the problem right off.

[F ROCK]

I've always had this battle under the car in the driveway.

I'm not saying that this is the right way.

The usual culprit for me is that i usually find the new bushing very snug and hammer it in there with a block of wood. Now the bushing ID has shrunk a little but the alignment tool still fits, but it's suddenly more snug. i stuff a small bit of hi temp grease behind the bushing.

I used a cutoff wheel to grind a very small bevel at the end of the shaft; maybe about 1/8". It's not much, but it allows you to sorta feel when the shaft hits the center of the bushing. this part of the shaft is well beyond the bushing after install.
I use the headless bolts that others recommended, but if pushing the clutch doesnt work, and i'm fighting for that last inch, i install the real bolts hand tight, as far as i can.
Then, after double checking that everything seems aligned properly, and if i'm still fighting, i pull the coil wire and bump the starter. then i go back under and gently and evenly turn the bolts. it usually goes right in but i've had to go back and bump a few times. I dont force anything. I just gently draw it in as far as it allows.

[grandam1979]

Like has been said have another person push clutch in as you wiggle trans should pop in the last 1/2 inch we pdo it this way a lot.

[GTOLou]

A lot of kits come w/ a plastic alignment tool - for whatever reason I've had way more luck w/ the steel/metal alignment tools. Summit, etc.

Best would be a spare input shaft - but I never had one of those laying around. lol.

[gman005]

Ron I bought a 72 Lemans Sport 400 with a 4 speed last fall. Just a street car I am not building another race car.

[gman005]

So I figure since the motor is just sitting in the car with nothing hooked up I will pull it out and put it on a crate That way I can get it lined up. It is a pita laying on the floor.

[Tom Vaught]

X2 on that deal. I will do a test of my scattershields vs block location (with the engine out for the other work, same deal as yours just sitting there) and follow your lead on NOT LAYING on the floor, lol. GOOD LUCK.

Tom V.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by AG

When this happens I put the trans in as far as it goes and then snug the four trans bolts and place the crossmember in without bolting it down. Attach the clutch linkage and have someone depress the clutch pedal and the trans should go right in, the disc will center itself if off center a slight amount.

My experience as well. On the last one I did in Sept., on a Chevy, I did a test as Ponitac Jim mentioned and found that the pilot bushing fit the alignment tool much easier than the trans input shaft. After I installed the bushing in the crank, the input shaft would NOT go in at all due to compression of the bushing. I honed it out very carefully with 180 grit on a drill until I got a perfect fit. The trans fell into place and went in flush....this was out of the car with the engine on the hoist. I then installed the whole she-bang into the car. Always check the input bearing/bushing fit on the trans input shaft before the install, and NEVER pull the trans in with the bolts that final bit....you can snap an ear off and damage the clutch.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

Always check the input bearing/bushing fit on the trans input shaft before the install, and NEVER pull the trans in with the bolts that final bit....you can snap an ear off and damage the clutch.

That is another reason for using long shank bolts with a bit of thread on the end of the long shank bolts. So that the trans ears slide on the bolts and you are not tempted to pull the trans in with the bolts.

Tom V.

I do not use a plastic Clutch tool, for the reasons described.
That is why I use a Muncie 4 speed trans tool.
I might have loaned out my fine spline input shaft and may have to find another one soon. Any one have a fine spline muncie input shaft? OPH?????

[scott70]

I had the same problem a few months ago. Fought with it for awhile. Engine was out of the car so I used a long pry bar to lever the clutch fork back enough to take the pressure off. Wiggled right in after that. First time I've had to do that. It was initially set with a plastic alignment tool.

[Tom Vaught]

Pretty Hard to fix a mistake (clutch disc not centered in relation with the crankshaft centerline where the pilot bearing/bushing is) unless you do exactly, as mentioned, and allow the disc to move to the correct location.

The original sin is the tool manufacturer making a inferior part and then taking your money for that part. Knowledge (be it learned in a college classroom or under a Pontiac vehicle) is the same. Do a job with inferior tools and you typically get poor results.

Be it poor study habits or poor clutch installations. You always pay at the end of the day.

Tom V.

[Old Goat Racer]

John, do you have one of these ? I could ship it to you if ya need it.

[Skip Fix]

Yep an old input shaft works really good!

[67gtospud]

When you’re aligning the clutch using the plastic tool; are you just holding it straight or letting it hang while tightening up the pressure plate? I’ve found by holding the tool at a slight upward angle while tightening the pressure plate puts the clutch at a better position for the trans input shaft to slide in and line up to the bearing

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by Old Goat Racer

John, do you have one of these ? I could ship it to you if ya need it.

On its way

[chrisp]

The plastic tool is fine , remove it slide trans in & have someone depress the clutch pedal & you are done.

[Old Man Taylor]

Originally Posted by chrisp

The plastic tool is fine , remove it slide trans in & have someone depress the clutch pedal & you are done.

I've always had to do the job alone, so the plastic one didn't work. An old input shaft works great.

[Formulas]

When I changed my first clutch at 17 in 1976 on my 1966 GTO I didn't have a pilot bearing tool I actually felt the edge of the clutch disk and the pressure plate until it felt centered then tightened the pressure plate bolts it worked