[johnta1]

no year date number

[Judge273]

John are you answering my question? Makes most sense.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by johnta1

no year date number

Why couldn't it be August 3?

[Judge273]

Chris, I believe that because of the early WC cast numbers makes it a 70. So Aug 31 1970 makes sense and vin helps that deduction.

[TA455HO]

You guys all OK with that so far? When in doubt I fall back to what Roger said.

So here's some more "project progress pictures". Say that ten times fast!!!

Water pump casting number 482138 with the large "71" cast into it. Slight nick in the spacer mounting surface.



Dated G020 (July 2, 1970). A Thursday.



I also came across an NOS in the box 9790522 part number 1.069 group number water pump. This is the 482138 casting number. Same pump using either number. I saved the gasket off in a folder so it wouldn't get smashed.

9790522 1.069 All V/8 .................. PUMP (w/gasket) 1 1971 1971 1-8



Also has "71" cast into it. Also the 482138 casting number. Bolt holes are unused. Spacer mounting surface has no nicks.



This one is dated G060 (July 6, 1970). A Monday.



LH exhaust manifold 478141 LH - Looks like an H240 (August 24, 1970). A Monday. .



Getting a good picture of the date code is elusive. Does it help to be further away? I almost think so.



RH exhaust manifold 9799721 RH - This one is dated G060 (July 6, 1970). A Monday.



Here's another item restored some time back by 70RAIII. The booster was covered in black paint before I sent it to him. He said it was a nice one with no pitting. Slight ding in the lid and I'm not sure that lid is original or not.



Has the "EB" on the forward snout.



Drilled and tapped bosses, "PM" stamping on the proportioning vale bracket. He does nice work, no question.



195 on the back side of the 12 o'clock tab.



236 on the front side of the same tab. This is 236th day of 1970 (August 24th, 1970). Another Monday.



5470409 casting number, 1 1/8 for the diameter, the D9 and down at the far end is another 236. I assume this is the same date as on the tab above.



That's it for tonight. Gotta go mow the lawn.

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by TA455HO

You guys all OK with that so far? When in doubt I fall back to what Roger said.

So here's some more "project progress pictures". Say that ten times fast!!!

Water pump casting number 482138 with the large "71" cast into it. Slight nick in the spacer mounting surface.



Dated G020 (July 2, 1970). A Thursday.



I also came across an NOS in the box 9790522 part number 1.069 group number water pump. This is the 482138 casting number. Same pump using either number. I saved the gasket off in a folder so it wouldn't get smashed.

9790522 1.069 All V/8 .................. PUMP (w/gasket) 1 1971 1971 1-8



Also has "71" cast into it. Also the 482138 casting number. Bolt holes are unused. Spacer mounting surface has no nicks.



This one is dated G060 (July 6, 1970). A Monday.



LH exhaust manifold 478141 LH - Looks like an H240 (August 24, 1970). A Monday. .



Getting a good picture of the date code is elusive. Does it help to be further away? I almost think so.



RH exhaust manifold 9799721 RH - This one is dated G060 (July 6, 1970). A Monday.



Here's another item restored some time back by 70RAIII. The booster was covered in black paint before I sent it to him. He said it was a nice one with no pitting. Slight ding in the lid and I'm not sure that lid is original or not.



Has the "EB" on the forward snout.



Drilled and tapped bosses, "PM" stamping on the proportioning vale bracket. He does nice work, no question.



195 on the back side of the 12 o'clock tab.



236 on the front side of the same tab. This is 236th day of 1970 (August 24th, 1970). Another Monday.



5470409 casting number, 1 1/8 for the diameter, the D9 and down at the far end is another 236. I assume this is the same date as on the tab above.



That's it for tonight. Gotta go mow the lawn.

Your booster "195" number is actually a "1957" number.1971's have the 1957 stamping,FWIW 1970's have a 0426 stamping. No idea how that was decoded..And yes, I remember your booster. seems most painted black were done so to cover rust/pitting.Yours was actually protected by the paint. rare to find the front 1/2 of these boosters pitt free.. nice to see the car is comming back together..that plating will last easily another 20 years..

[skunkwerks]

Looks good. Nice progress. I am starting one of my 71 455 HO cars and it is good to see a documented car with original parts. Love the M22 Code tranny. I have one too.

Keep posting and we will keep givin you support.

Will be a nice car when you get it finished.

[TA455HO]

Originally Posted by skunkwerks

Looks good. Nice progress. I am starting one of my 71 455 HO cars and it is good to see a documented car with original parts. Love the M22 Code tranny. I have one too.

Keep posting and we will keep givin you support.

Will be a nice car when you get it finished.

Thank you. I love the M22 trannies. Stay tuned for some questions coming up. Any advice and opinions are welcome.

[TA455HO]

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

Your booster "195" number is actually a "1957" number.1971's have the 1957 stamping,FWIW 1970's have a 0426 stamping. No idea how that was decoded..And yes, I remember your booster. seems most painted black were done so to cover rust/pitting.Yours was actually protected by the paint. rare to find the front 1/2 of these boosters pitt free.. nice to see the car is comming back together..that plating will last easily another 20 years..

Thanks for that extra info added there and for all your help with the distributor and power brakes. I'm hoping you'll do me another one or two along the way. If you read this can I hit you with a quick PM or e-mail about one need?

[TA455HO]

OK, here's what's going on with front suspension portion of the project. A long time ago I got these NOS upper control arms. Ball joints are riveted in. They come painted all black and at the time I was not aware of the dipping they did at the factory that left the tip unpainted. So I could try to replicate that some. It mocks up fairly well so far.






OR I could go a slightly different route here.

This is, at least, one of those "choices". So I could probably go either way.

I've got the original upper control arms. They both have the old ball joints removed and are glass beaded. Still need a bit of clean up but not too bad.



One is dated coded 0 G 30 (July 30, 1970). A Thursday.



Other is dated coded 0 H 18 (August 18th, 1970). A Tuesday.



I do have a pair of the 3986009 upper ball joints.





And also a pair of the 6259679 upper control arm shaft kits.





I wouldn't be able to go without riveting in the new ball joints. Bolts just wouldn't seem right. I just found out recently that Scott Tiemann can rivet ball joints in.

Should I use the original control arms or the NOS ones? I guess some of that depends on whether or not Scott would be willing to help me out.

====================

Now here's a similar situation I need to get taken care of with the lower control arms.

I don't have any NOS lowers to fall back on, so there's that, too.

I do have the original lowers all apart and blasted.



They both have a large "A" on them but I don't know what that would indicate.



One is dated 0 G 29 (July 29th, 1970). A Wednesday.



One is dated 0 H 4 (August 4th, 1970). A Tuesday.



The front and rear bushings are NOS with Harris Silentblock on them but I don't have boxes. They do seem like they will press in nice and tight. And the bolts that pass through them fit perfect. No real concerns there other than a hint of flash rust on one of them that I need to clean off.



I also have a pair of 9756251 lower ball joints





But, they are too loose by exactly ten thousands of an inch. I know the lower ball joints were replaced at some time and the honed out the opening for aftermarket ball joints. In fact I still have those ball joints and they fit nice and tight.

Is there anything that could positively be done to the opening on the lower control arm that the ball joint passes through to close it down ten thousands? There is plenty of load bearing material to support the ball joint and they wouldn't pull through, no way. They would just be slightly loose in the hole and I can't do that.

I'd appreciate any advice or thoughts on those two items.

Thanks
Chad

[70RAlll]

Corvette Specialities or something like that in Sheboyghan Falls Wisc. will rivet upper ball joints for $45 each side. did great work on the 2 sets I sent them.The lower ball joint is always a problem once you remove the originals. I am only guessing here, but think the removal of the originals opens up the holes just enough that when you try to install NOS lower ball joints,they are always loose. I have tac welded in the inside,know one guy who tac welded on the ball joints mating surface then ground down to gain that difference.. your problem is a common problem is what I am trying to say. your solution will involve a welder one way or another.. good luck.. and call the Corvette place, they did a 2 day turn around and didn't scratch my freshly painted arms.. great job for the cost..

[Norwood]

AHHHH...Bill, I can do the rivets.

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Norwood

AHHHH...Bill, I can do the rivets.

Craig.. I know I asked you about this.. Are we talking about the same rivets??the upper ball joint mount rivets? 1/4" or so shaft with 3/8" or so heads?? guess my age is starting to show.. I can't imagine why I wouldn't have asked you about doing these.. anyway, there you go.. send it to Craig.. I know I will next time I need these done..

[Norwood]

Bill, have you seen different fonts used in the stamping of the eb? Is the pictured the correct in your opinion?

[70RAlll]

Yes. I have seen a smaller,almost like a currently stamped font,and the large stamped font as shown here.I will say the one shown here I have never seen from a Pontiac except a Firebird.The smaller font I have seen from Firebird's and GTO's. Guess what I am saying, every time I received a smaller font master cylinder to restore,it came off a GTO except twice off Firebird's. I bet I received 40++ of the large font master cylinders all from Firebirds.I don't know if I am correct or not, but I believe,at least 70-71 models,that the large EB is the correct for Firebird's and the small EB is for GTO's. GTO's used the exact same mater cylinder in 70-71 model years as Firebird's did. I had a guy with a GTO swap me his smaller font because he thought it was a restamp. I explained to him what I had experienced and that his smaller font was correct for his GTO,but he was dead set he needed the large EB. Funny thing, 6 months later he called asking if I still had the small EB.The "experts" at a show told him the small was correct not the large.. funny..Craig.. why are you asking??

[TA455HO]

Originally Posted by Norwood

AHHHH...Bill, I can do the rivets.

Ya Craig, I was wondering since it seems like you rivet many other items. Would you be willing to do mine? They are a fairly stout rivet as I'm sure you know. These are about the best I could find if any were needed.

http://amkproducts.com/bulk3.asp?part=B%2D10775

Not sure what you'd think of those.

Can I send you a PM?

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

Craig.. I know I asked you about this.. Are we talking about the same rivets??the upper ball joint mount rivets? 1/4" or so shaft with 3/8" or so heads?? guess my age is starting to show.. I can't imagine why I wouldn't have asked you about doing these.. anyway, there you go.. send it to Craig.. I know I will next time I need these done..

Thanks again for all the information that you share. Don't be surprised if you get a PM.

[TA455HO]

Oh, I meant to say that I got this brochure from Hanson Rivet in California. They have a machine that would probably do the trick there on the left, or one that looks basically like it. Don't really need one for the limited use. I'd have to start doing lots of other peoples to ever pay it off.




My aunt called me the other day in desperate need of a new computer since she is still on XP and IE 8 and her bank started blocking her. Today I set up a network between the new and old computers and did the whole configure and transfered all her files and favorites. Set up new shortcuts on the Start screen. I hadn't touched Windows 8.1 until today. Took quite a long time and so we went to lunch there near where she lives.


Boeing has always had a huge presence in Washington state and especially in the city of Renton near this place we were on Lake Washington. It was one of their original locations from way back. They still build the 737 there and I remember my Dad in commercial construction had a job doing a rework on some office space, which is right inside the plant on sort of a upstairs balcony overlooking the plant floor. He got to bring us kids in for a tour one day and here we were up on this balcony about 4 or 5 stories up overlooking all these planes being built with several HUGE gantry cranes overhead.

Anyway, that building is in the background in at least one of these pictures.

When they finish with a 737 at the plant they bring them across a bridge and use the Renton Municipal Airport for the first flight. That same airport is used by lots of small planes, too. Including float planes. But, there is no dock for the float planes to even tie up next to. And the water is shallow on that end of the lake with lots of trees sitting on sandbars. So they have this fleet of pickup trucks with trailers that they use many times a day to bring the float planes in and to launch them on this "boat" ramp. That no boats ever use.

These are some of the trucks they use. Supposedly the only airport in the country that uses trucks like this. This is not photoshopped, I promise.







A different angle. This one has little wheelie rollers under the back end. The older Chevy has tailpipes out the back.



Another chevy over there in the distance.



And a silver Ford.





Just thought you might enjoy some of those pictures.



Ya, OK. Back to topic....

Thermostat housing 478144 ready for paint. Some pitting under the radiator hose area. Otherwise, not bad.



And some fresh, what should be NOS, 1969-1970 RAIV and 1971-1972 455HO intake manifold crossover washers. I should have bought dozens of these at the time. I know I paid less than $3.50 each, probably around $2.00. Nice square shoulders. I dunno, you tell me.

[Norwood]

Pm me for my info if you want me to do the rivets. I have presses up to 100 tons.

[Norwood]

Bill I ask about the font because I currently have two eb's and they have the small font. And who better to ask then you��

[70RAlll]

CRaig.. I say the small EB is more than likely from a GTO.. As I said in earlier post, a couple 2 or 3 that I have seen from Firebirds had the small EB, but am not sure these were originals to those cars.May have just been found by FB owners and sent to me for resto.. I think the "community" accepts both as correct, they are metered the same so either will work ..if available, I would suggest the large font on our 70-71 FB's.. can't confirm if 72's used EB's, think they did.. not positive though.. others more familiar with 72 model years can speak to this.