[Dadspackard]

Hello All,

Have an issue with the my hood on my 1969 GTO where when I go to close the hood the drivers side rear edge of the hood drops and rubs against the fender (it has caused some chipping on the edge of hood and on fender) ).

Is this an adjustment issue or are the hinges weak?

I am going to be placing an order from NPD and they have this hinge or this hinge which one would be best to order that is if you all think my hinges are bad.

Thanks
Tom

[Ram4king]

Hinge is shot.
If you decide to go with original ones I have a few sets ...125.00 plus the ride

[Kenth]

Missing bumpers on cowl?

[Dadspackard]

Ram4king,
That is what I figured just wanted some second opinions before I order new ones. Thank you very much for the offer on the original sets.

Kieth,
Bumpers are there.


Now that I will be ordering new hinges should I go ahead and get spring too?
Hood stays up fine.

[Old Goat 67]

I'd stick with originals.

[dataway]

First make sure both hinges are well lubricated. A sticky hinge on one side will cock the hood to the other side when you close it. You can usually spot a worn hinge by opening the hood and getting someone to rock it back and forth while you watch the hinge pivots.

[Dadspackard]

When I hear originals to me it sounds like ones taken off a car.
So when you all are talking originals are we talking NOS or ?

If buying news ones from OPI, Ames or NPD (which are the from Ames) is that not the way to go? I am all ears then.

Ram4king,
Could you post some pictures of the ones you have?

[Dadspackard]

Originally Posted by dataway

First make sure both hinges are well lubricated. A sticky hinge on one side will cock the hood to the other side when you close it. You can usually spot a worn hinge by opening the hood and getting someone to rock it back and forth while you watch the hinge pivots.

Dataway,
That is exactly what it is doing the drivers side would drop/close cock as you described. When I get back out to where it stored I will give the hinges a good lube first and see what happens.

I really do appreciate the feedback. Dont want to spend unnecessary cash if I don't need to. Could use it for other things under the hood, Trans cooler lines, Radiator shroud, straps for the holding the wire-loom etc...

[Half-Inch Stud]

Yea, a combo of things to get well:

Need Hinges with tight rivets
Need a SQUARE hood-fender-Front Bumper-hood gapping, not racked like a paralellogram.
Need Tight Radiator-Support bushings.
and perhaps need tight Body-mount bushings under the Firewall.
Then the Fender-Hood rubber wedges can be chosen wisely to mitigate "Hood-Shake"at idle and driving.

[Old Goat 67]

Originally Posted by Dadspackard

When I hear originals to me it sounds like ones taken off a car.
So when you all are talking originals are we talking NOS or ?

If buying news ones from OPI, Ames or NPD (which are the from Ames) is that not the way to go? I am all ears then.

Ram4king,
Could you post some pictures of the ones you have?

Just saying, I have read and heard horror stories of reproduction ones that are totally junk!

My 67 GTO hinges are as good as new because I've always kept them oiled once or twice a year since new.

[68gtoMN]

Good advice here on lubricating, checking hood/fender/radiator alignment and ensuring that the hinge pivot points are tight. There is one other very important reminder to offer regarding hood closure procedure.

When closing a hood, one does not pull down on the hood from the front edge. NO - do not do that! How many kinked hoods do we see from that process with a tight hinge? Instead, one should place hands on the front edge of the hood and push the hood back toward the windshield. This process moves the hood in concert with the motion of the hinge and shifts the stress away from the area of the hood structure that incorporate crash windows (68+).

[Dadspackard]

All,

Thanks for the awesome advice everyone. Only wish I had the GTO back here at home in Illinois. I'd be working on it today since we have been sent home to work from home the last week and maybe longer.

GTO needs some minor work for me to drive it back from Indiana.
One thing I found the other day while I was out working on it some previous owner cut the Trans cooling line near radiator and then spliced in some rubber tubing which is kinked in an S shape. The cut metal line is ready to break trough the rubber line at the S. Urggg Sure glad I spotted it before driving it back.

Be safe and keep healthy everyone.

[Greg Reid]

Inline Tube has the cooler lines. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and fit was not drop-dead perfect but fit well with a little flexing here and there.

[dataway]

Make sure you look into WHY the lines were cut. Could be the fittings were just frozen in the radiator. Or if the fittings are still in the radiator and looped together it could mean the trans cooler was leaking and coolant and trans fluid were swapping places.

Sometimes if the cooler inside the radiator is rusted out people will put a loop on the lines to the tranny, and then leave the fittings in the radiator with a stub of tubing and loop those too.

[Dadspackard]

Dataway,

I did not get to deep into to looking as to why the one line was cut but as you stated it is possible the lines are frozen in the radiator.

There is no looping of the lines. The lines are attached to radiator and run back to the trans.

Greg,
Did you go with the stainless or the carbon steel lines?

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Dadspackard

Greg,

Did you go with the stainless or the carbon steel lines?

I have no idea. Didn't even know that they offered two types. How do you tell?



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