#21  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
You can use the paper based insulation that the factory used and jute as a decoupling layer. It won't be quite as effective as some of the modern stuff you're seeing in this thread, but it should help quiet things down without adding the butyl rubber based products.

In this case without that constrain layer though, you're giving up basically any chance to limit harmonic and sympathetic vibrations in the floor pans.

What you could do at the expense of a bunch of weight would be to use a bed lining material on the bottom of the floor pans. That would keep the fumes on the outside and would serve as a constrain layer to dampen vibration.

Thank you!

  #22  
Old 03-29-2019, 12:33 PM
rambow rambow is offline
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I just ordered a pack of the summit house branded stuff, which per my research is actually made by Hushmat.

Have not yet installed it (planning to use it on the inside of my roof before I do my headliner), but i can say from previous experience with dynamat that this stuff is at least as good as the base dynamat product if not better.

I actually think its a little thicker. Definitely a better value. 18 sheets for $99

  #23  
Old 03-30-2019, 12:01 AM
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Jack Gifford Jack Gifford is offline
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I'm very happy with the Thermotec product (acoustic, not thermal) in my '59 GMC for four years now. Very dense self-stick in roll form. Truck is amazingly quiet inside.

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  #24  
Old 03-30-2019, 01:52 PM
76TA462 76TA462 is offline
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A little off topic. Does the Dynamat and Thermo-Tec type stuff work as well if the adhesive cover is left on the padding simply laid in place. I was going to order up an OEM type kit that does not cover much and just lays down. For the doors, same thought I was considering just taping the edges in place.

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Old 04-01-2019, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76TA462 View Post
A little off topic. Does the Dynamat and Thermo-Tec type stuff work as well if the adhesive cover is left on the padding simply laid in place. I was going to order up an OEM type kit that does not cover much and just lays down. For the doors, same thought I was considering just taping the edges in place.
No. You have to 'stick' it to the metal you want vibrations absorbed, and not loosely.

I use Dynamat & Dynaliner, pretty much for the same reasons others do, because I KNOW the results it will provide. If you buy bulk packs, and find shipping deals, it's not that much more than similar products.

Many 'play' with the amount you get, by saying the size or number of the sheets, or by just saying something like 'door kit'. Compare sq ft and you will see the cost is even closer than you think.

.

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  #26  
Old 04-01-2019, 12:34 PM
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For most of the popular cars out there, Dynamat also has their custom cut kits which provide what's needed in pre-cut sheets for easy install.

You only really need 50-75% coverage depending on the panel to achieve proper damping of the metal. Covering the entire car in the stuff gets you well into the point of diminishing returns, costs you more and adds unnecessary weight.

For large flat panels without bends or creases to add rigidity, try to cover about 75% of the panel. For panels that contain numerous bends and creases, you only need about 50% coverage on that panel. Remember, the constrain layer only dampens sympathetic vibrations, it doesn't knock down heat or air born noise like exhaust, tire roar etc.

A note on the different materials. Thickness itself is not indicative of performance. The "mat" products are mass loaded constrain layers. What matters most is the mass of the product, not how thin or thick it is. That said, it's easier to add mass with more thickness, but the material matters, it's certainly possible to add more mass with thinner material. That goes the same for the mass-loaded vinyl layer if you are using such a product. Thickness is irrelevant, it's the mass that matters.

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  #27  
Old 12-15-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rohrt View Post
What I used.

https://store.secondskinaudio.com/damplifier-pro



Wish I would have went all the way up the firewall. And as well as it works it doesn't work well enough to keep the heat out. I think If I had to do over again I would incorporate lizzard skin
My body man wants to spray lizard skin. We are planning to do the firewall/floor, roof and down into the doors. I would like to do something in the trunk area then cover with correct spatter but I've been told not to use it (lizard skin) in the trunk since it water based.

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