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  #61  
Old 10-28-2011, 11:01 AM
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parts place has a lower window repair section... might work for you ... http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/ocat...&YearList=1970 scroll down to the cowl/windshield..kinda a newer part... didn't see it at py's site

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Old 10-28-2011, 01:11 PM
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How many hours are you ahead of us there?
US pacific time = 9 hours, now it is 7.13 Pm here

  #63  
Old 10-28-2011, 01:20 PM
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parts place has a lower window repair section... might work for you ... http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/ocat...&YearList=1970 scroll down to the cowl/windshield..kinda a newer part... didn't see it at py's site
Yes, This one, BP5238G (1968 - 1972 GTO/LeMans) UPPER DASH REPAIR PANEL, it should do it, Thanks !

I was hoping to repair it without taking out the windsheild, kind of risky but I will see how it goes when I get the panel and have cut the bad one out.

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Old 10-28-2011, 02:11 PM
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Default Day 5, Back to the hell hole..

Ok I am not proud of this place, but it is pretty safe, close to my home, I can do what I want when I want and I have a pretty large and dry room next to it where I have all my tools and other stuff and last so is it almost free.

And yes the body will not be painted here, back to that one later.

So first of all the over flow bottle, have you seen this before ? Aftermaket I guess.


The battery tray is way gone..


On the left inner fender can anyone decode it ?


It has a wrong alternator 1100928 from -71, I would like to exchange/trade this one to a 1100927 from the 3 quarter or earlier if you have it.


I also need the long bolt and spacer/tube between the alternator and head.

  #65  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:25 PM
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Yes, This one, BP5238G (1968 - 1972 GTO/LeMans) UPPER DASH REPAIR PANEL, it should do it, Thanks !

I was hoping to repair it without taking out the windshield, kind of risky but I will see how it goes when I get the panel and have cut the bad one out.
I recommend removing the windshield, for ease of working around it and also to check for any other rust issues that may be not visible with it installed... plus a NEW windshield just looks GREAT!

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Old 10-28-2011, 02:26 PM
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The 455 is numbers matching


Where have the points gone ??
There might be a previous owner that has the original parts and he is on the forum


If you look close you will see that the upper bolt is broken and it has been that for a long time, maybe back at the factory, the head was still attached to the inner fender.


Some times I really wonder what they did at the factory and what some of the guys did smoke..


How difficult would it be to place the center asphalt mat correct ?


Ohh yes the AC unit is out, made in 1970 so it is possible that it was installed by the dealer.


But it is not going back, I will keep it however, you never know what will happend in the future


Then some engine pictures



And this is how it is after day 5


I will not do anything to it tomorrow, but maybe I will be back on sunday.

  #67  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:32 PM
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Espen, I read your question about milling the 66 casting heads. have you ever thought about buying some very early '71 dated 96 casting D-ports. The '71 96 casting 400 4bbl heads are plentiful, have screw-in studs & would give you around 9.5-1 compression on an .030 455. In the early 90's I sold a bunch of pairs of '71 96's to fellows having them ported & putting them on their 455's. I even had an early L dated set I had setting to go on a '71 455 Dport GTO i owned that had L dated '66's. Today, I have a pair of E of73 dated 4X 7H's (400 heads) that perfectly date & can replace the 4X 1H heads on the original ZZ code 455 in my '73 Brewster green T/A project. It takes a very keen eye to notice such swaps.

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  #68  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:33 PM
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I recommend removing the windshield, for ease of working around it and also to check for any other rust issues that may be not visible with it installed... plus a NEW windshield just looks GREAT!
Yes you are absolutly right Forrest I do agree with you, but remember that I live in Norway, buying a new one here would be 1000-1500 USD, I can import one myself but to get the best price I will need some one close to Linden NJ to buy one for me and deliver it at my shippers wearhouse, not so easy...
That is why I will try to do it with the windsheild in place, but of course if it brakes I do not have a choice.

  #69  
Old 10-28-2011, 02:38 PM
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Espen, I read your question about milling the 66 casting heads. have you ever thought about buying some very early '71 dated 96 casting D-ports. The '71 96 casting 400 4bbl heads are plentiful, have screw-in studs & would give you around 9.5-1 compression on an .030 455. In the early 90's I sold a bunch of pairs of '71 96's to fellows having them ported & putting them on their 455's. I even had an early L dated set I had setting to go on a '71 455 Dport GTO i owned that had L dated '66's. Today, I have a pair of E of73 dated 4X 7H's (400 heads) that perfectly date & can replace the 4X 1H heads on the original ZZ code 455 in my '73 Brewster green T/A project. It takes a very keen eye to notice such swaps.
I am just playing with the idea for now, but sure some 96 heads would be great, but then again I would like to keep it original.
I guess you know how it is, allways looking for some more power..

I think I will make my mind up when the engine is taken apart and inspected.

  #70  
Old 10-28-2011, 03:40 PM
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Espen,

What is the build date on that car. Looks like a 08C, and could be a very early 70 build based on that VIN.

Has that been discussed? Looks like the 419th A body off the line the first day of production for the 71 year?

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  #71  
Old 10-28-2011, 03:47 PM
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Ship date is 09-28-70, I guess that would be late second or early third day of production at the Pontiac factory ?

I have not seen any treads on the forum about the build date on this one and would like more info if possible.

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Old 10-28-2011, 03:58 PM
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Your build date is located on your data plate on cowl. Ship date means it sat for a month or so.

08C is what it probably says, and that translates to the third week of August 1970.

Based on the VIN your A body was the 419th built which could mean.

First week of production or even day? I don't know but Pontiac plant could build at least 500 A body car a day...

Roger and others will know more as I'm just remembering old threads.

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  #73  
Old 10-28-2011, 04:13 PM
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Not my strong side, here you go, 08C


  #74  
Old 10-28-2011, 10:13 PM
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I was thinking of painting it in a light shade of pink

No it will be like the original canyon copper, I really like them in black, silver or red but I do not have the guts to change anything on this one.
Well that will get you noticed alright, lol. Wish I had the time and space to do this to mine, someday I hope.

  #75  
Old 10-29-2011, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Forrest View Post
parts place has a lower window repair section... might work for you ... http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/ocat...&YearList=1970 scroll down to the cowl/windshield..kinda a newer part... didn't see it at py's site
Found it on the bay with a picture.. wrong part will not help..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-72-GM-A...sories&vxp=mtr

I will need the panel below this one

  #76  
Old 10-29-2011, 04:09 PM
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Did find a couple of earlier treads on it

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=538154

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=557123

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=559168

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=566331

  #77  
Old 10-30-2011, 03:25 PM
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Default Tip of the day

Those handbrake cable locks can be nasty to loosen, what I do is to use a washer that fit real thight over the lock, then it is just to pull the cable, works every time


  #78  
Old 10-30-2011, 03:30 PM
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Default Day 6

Did find some odd stuff today..

First on the harness to the steering column, the connectors between the column and the wiring harness does not fit so they used this adapter.


Then under the asphalt mat on the drivers side.



  #79  
Old 10-30-2011, 03:37 PM
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Then the floor, a couple of small holes, I have put some acid on it but it looks like I have to use my welder, what to you guys think ?


Right side


Front


Middle


And rear floor

  #80  
Old 10-30-2011, 03:41 PM
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And the dash is out, it has a couple of issues



Hard to see, but is it not a thight fit to the frame towards the windshield


And last some pictures that shows how it looks from the back side


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