#41  
Old 02-26-2019, 07:05 PM
Tim john Tim john is offline
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Glad the trunk lid meets your expectations, I had saved that forever it seems like, very pleased to see it go to a good home and be put back in service. Enjoy the restoration process, it is long and not for the weary but it will be worth it in the end.

Tim john---

  #42  
Old 02-26-2019, 08:46 PM
RedDirtRoad RedDirtRoad is offline
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You won't need a heater box
They are fiberglass and don't rot
Just be careful when you disassemble because it might be cracked
JB Weld works great
Looks like you will only need the flange

  #43  
Old 02-26-2019, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim john View Post
Glad the trunk lid meets your expectations, I had saved that forever it seems like, very pleased to see it go to a good home and be put back in service. Enjoy the restoration process, it is long and not for the weary but it will be worth it in the end.

Tim john---
Many thanks for the excellent trunk lid, Tim! It's one piece of a very large puzzle. I'm looking forward to the restoration process. It will be a meditative outlet for me with a beautiful end result.

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  #44  
Old 03-02-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrffytr1 View Post
I bought mine at the Moultrie swap meet. They came from Accessible Systems, Inc.
Try this link: WWW.accessiblesystems.com
Phil, do you still have the door braces you used when your body was on the rotisserie? And if so, any interest in selling them?

Best,
Karl

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  #45  
Old 03-22-2019, 01:24 PM
randy1966GTO randy1966GTO is offline
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Hi Karl,

Any progress updates? I have the same car in almost the same condition (drivetrain, suspension, steering all redone) and am enjoying driving it so much I'm delaying tearing it down to do the metal work, paint and interior. I will be watching your deconstruction/reconstruction closely to see how it goes for you, and good luck.

Randy

  #46  
Old 03-22-2019, 04:18 PM
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Hi Karl,



Any progress updates? I have the same car in almost the same condition (drivetrain, suspension, steering all redone) and am enjoying driving it so much I'm delaying tearing it down to do the metal work, paint and interior. I will be watching your deconstruction/reconstruction closely to see how it goes for you, and good luck.



Randy
Hey Randy. No major updates, as I got a bit caught up with prepping my BMW for the upcoming track season. Should be done with that now, so the GTO will be back in the spotlight.

I've got much of the trim off the car now, but I still need to figure out how to safely remove the trim around the side windows and door frames. Don't want to damage it because it's unobtainium, so if anyone has tips, I'm all ears. I plan to work on that this weekend, as well as remove the headliner and think about how to remove the front and rear windscreens.

I'll post more photos on Sunday.

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  #47  
Old 03-22-2019, 10:22 PM
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Phil, do you still have the door braces you used when your body was on the rotisserie? And if so, any interest in selling them?

Best,
Karl
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I sold the braces when I sold the rotisserie.

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  #48  
Old 03-22-2019, 10:32 PM
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I can assure you that you are not going to need bracing in the door jambs. Your post coupe (the strongest body style) will be much stiffer than the convertible that Phil has. You do not need bracing to put your car on a rotisserie.







Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam View Post
Phil, do you still have the door braces you used when your body was on the rotisserie? And if so, any interest in selling them?

Best,
Karl

  #49  
Old 03-22-2019, 11:41 PM
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Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I sold the braces when I sold the rotisserie.
No worries, Phil! Just thought I'd check.

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Originally Posted by 400 4spd. View Post
I can assure you that you are not going to need bracing in the door jambs. Your post coupe (the strongest body style) will be much stiffer than the convertible that Phil has. You do not need bracing to put your car on a rotisserie.
Hmmm, are you sure? Although the post coupe is unquestionably stiffer than the other body configurations, I would think it might still be susceptible to some amount of body flex when removed from the frame.

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  #50  
Old 03-23-2019, 01:38 PM
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ZE...no worries about the door braces...I had my 67 post on the rotisserie for 2 years and no issues(no bracing). The door gaps are perfect. As far as the trim around the windows on the door, it does come off by hand you just have to be careful with it. If you need more info on removing the rear window trim and upper track PM me with a phone # and we can discuss further.

  #51  
Old 03-23-2019, 02:35 PM
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ZE...no worries about the door braces...
Does the fact that I will be replacing the trunk pan and portions of the floor pan make a difference regarding whether I should use door braces? I don't think I'll need to mess with the quarter panels, fortunately.

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  #52  
Old 03-23-2019, 11:46 PM
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Does your storage facility have a bar/restaurant attached to it? If so I’ve been there and it is an awesome concept

  #53  
Old 03-24-2019, 12:18 PM
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Does your storage facility have a bar/restaurant attached to it? If so I’ve been there and it is an awesome concept
Yes, it has a restaurant/bar named Derby connected to it. It's fun to bring friends over and hang out, since it is a unique setting even if you're not a dyed in the wool car person.

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  #54  
Old 03-24-2019, 08:54 PM
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Does the fact that I will be replacing the trunk pan and portions of the floor pan make a difference regarding whether I should use door braces? I don't think I'll need to mess with the quarter panels, fortunately.

No.

What you need to do is replace the trunk floor while the body is on the chassis before going on a rotisserie. If you have the body on a rotisserie you are supporting half of the weight on the rear body cross member. Take a real hard look at your replacement trunk pan and decide what works. If a new cross member is welded to the trunk pan, you have your answer.

  #55  
Old 03-24-2019, 10:42 PM
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No.

What you need to do is replace the trunk floor while the body is on the chassis before going on a rotisserie. If you have the body on a rotisserie you are supporting half of the weight on the rear body cross member. Take a real hard look at your replacement trunk pan and decide what works. If a new cross member is welded to the trunk pan, you have your answer.
That's good to hear. One less thing to worry about. Thanks for the info.

----

A few photos from today's work. I removed the grills, headlight bezels, hood scoop insert, some more body trim, some interior trim, and the headliner (what a mess!). I started to eye the door trim and reveal trim, but I need to do more research on how to get it off without damaging it.
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  #56  
Old 03-24-2019, 10:43 PM
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One last photo of the roof with the headliner out. Still need to figure out how to remove whatever that sound deadening type materials is that's covering the metal of the roof.
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  #57  
Old 03-25-2019, 08:20 AM
randy1966GTO randy1966GTO is offline
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Hi Karl,

Good progress, thanks for posting the pics. I took my headliner out a few years ago and had to scrape that insulation off the roof panels with a 4" wide scraper, it was a hell of a mess. We put a sheet down in the interior to catch most of it and there were still a few pieces under the roof braces that would fly out over the next several weeks if I had the windows open.

I have a lot more rust than yours in the panel from the rear window to the trunk lid including the bracing underneath and will be doing a trunk floor as well. I like the idea above to do this work before taking the body off the chassis and might do that next winter and get another year of driving in before I blow the rest of the car apart for metal work and paint.

Randy

  #58  
Old 03-25-2019, 08:28 AM
Tim john Tim john is offline
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Document what holes the headliner bows are in for when you reinstall.

Tim john---

  #59  
Old 03-25-2019, 10:41 AM
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True above! They are different.

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Old 03-25-2019, 12:42 PM
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Hi Karl,

Good progress, thanks for posting the pics. I took my headliner out a few years ago and had to scrape that insulation off the roof panels with a 4" wide scraper, it was a hell of a mess. We put a sheet down in the interior to catch most of it and there were still a few pieces under the roof braces that would fly out over the next several weeks if I had the windows open.

I have a lot more rust than yours in the panel from the rear window to the trunk lid including the bracing underneath and will be doing a trunk floor as well. I like the idea above to do this work before taking the body off the chassis and might do that next winter and get another year of driving in before I blow the rest of the car apart for metal work and paint.

Randy
Actually, the rear tray under the window is totally shot in my car, too. It's much worse in the trunk than what you can see from above through the window. I'm going to have to cut most of it out and splice in new metal from a '66 Chevelle, since they don't make repops for the '66 GTO.
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Document what holes the headliner bows are in for when you reinstall.

Tim john---
Thanks for the heads-up! Will certainly save a headache down the road.

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